517 replies to this topic

[Bart]

thanks Liam, i just completed the passenger side dump pipe, will show pics later

[Bart]

Hey guys, im thinking of using these suspension arms, just wondering if anybody has used these before? Toranamat69??
These would be ideal for me since i have very little room for shim adjustment on me suspension arms, these arms have threaded rods for adjustment and i can take out my shims all together.
I forgot to mention they are from Summit Racing in the US

Edited by Bart, 29 December 2007 - 02:18 PM.

[Bart]

http://store.summitr...h&DDS=1&N=700 0
http://cgi.ebay.com/...0194783024&rd=1

[Bart]

Yep theres about 6 different versions of the control arms so ill email them the specs and which come close, they are adjustable so i imagine one of the 6 should fit.

[Bart]

Almost completed the drivers side dump pipe, but this time i used the Henrob to weld it and i must say although im no expert at welding the Henrob weld almost looks like tig weld, compared to the passenger side dump pipe i used the mig which looks shit house. Will post pics asap, didnt have time for pics as i went like a bat out of hell trying to get as much as possible done. Wish i had a couple more months before Summer Nats oh well next time??
The rest of the exhaust i may get done as its to damn difficult without a hoist, mmmmmmmm id love a hoist.
My wife is getting in on it also as she is buying my alloy VG30/300ZX flywheel, as this is the only flywheel off the shelf which fits a VH41. Im kinda hoping to use my heavy duty clutch previously used in my RB30t motor but i have a feeling the bolt pattern may be different.
Have to buy 2 waste gates prob 50mm or 60mm.

Edited by Bart, 30 December 2007 - 09:41 PM.

[Bart]

MIG welding isn't generally my preferred method of welding.

I learnt to weld on a former Royal Australian Navy ARC welder. That thing really punched out some amps!

Hey Kingswood man, love the name, love Kingswoods, i saw a fine example of a white Kingswood in Ryde, Sydney, it was stock as a rock but it looked like it just rolled off the line. Great to see.
I forgot to mention, yeah the Mig is ok for some stuff but things which require a bit of cosmetic value i dont like it, its either tig (which i dont have) or as i recently discovered the Henrob, it leaves a very flat weld beed which is ideal if one likes to show off weld which isnt ugly/lumpy, plus of course requires less or no grinding to clean it all up, the only time it reqired grinding is the tack welds left by the mig while i was mocking it up.
Im still learning but slowly getting there

Edited by Bart, 30 December 2007 - 11:15 PM.

[Bart]

Whats a Henrob? Ive never heard of it :S

The Henrob is an Oxy Acetelyne torch, I havnt mastered aluminium but mild steel seems great so far, i have tried aluminium but stuffed it.
You can google it also

[Mr Lc]

i would be extremely interested in those control arms let us know how u go with them

[Bart]

i would be extremely interested in those control arms let us know how u go with them

no prob

[gtrboyy]

Let me know also Bart...keep up the great work.

[Bart]

Ill email the details to them tonight if i remember to take the measurements. Ill let you guys know asap

[Toranamat69]

G'day Bart,

I didn't see your query on the control arms - I have thought about these before as well because I like the adjustability.

When I checked into it the cross bars for the Chevys have a bolt spacing of 8" (from memory here) and the torana one is 5". I found out else where that the Mustang 2's used the same spacing for the cross bars as the Torana.
Hopefully their bushes and cross shafts etc interchange, then they could make up a custom arm to suit the Torana.

The chev top control arms are a fair bit longer than the Torana ones but those guys have a lot of different threaded tubes so I would imagine they would be able to put something together for you.
Have you thought of maybe copying the UC upper arm rather than the LJ ones? - it depends on what settings you want to be able to achieve in your front end setup.

You have noticed that they do not have a rebound bump stop? - I don't know that a regular shock absorber would like being forced to full extent by the spring. This seems to be a common practice with coil overs to have no bump stop but I have yet to find out if they are actually designed to act as the bumpstop without damage.

I like the way you can buy 10 degree plates for the balljoint end - exactly what I need with my upper control arms mounted lower and using 1" longer stub axles because the top balljoint runs out of travel near full bump unless you angle it over at least 6 or 7 degrees.

The top balljoint plate to suit the 64-72 Chevelles (K5108) will fit the Torana top balljoint no worries.

You may run into clearance probs on the Torana front end because the adjustable rods are straight between the inner bushes and the balljoint rather than banana shaped like the originals.

M@

[Toranamat69]

G'day Bart, just looking back at your thread, it looks like your remote brake booster is setup to boost the 2 front brakes only.

Is your engineer happy with this? I thought LJ's had boosted front and rear brakes originally.

M@

[Bart]

Hey Matt, regarding the control arms, i dont think there will be clearence issues if the threaded rod is straight and not bannana shape as thee is nothing really in the way, but then maybe im not looking at it corectly?
The ball joint you mentioned is what I specified to SPC Performance, the cross shafts i wont need any way as iv made a set.
I just emailed SPC Performance with pics and measuements so ill see where it leads, also mentioned other/you guys are interested.

The remote brake booster if you look closely has a tee piece at the output end, so one tee piece end goes to the front and other to the back so front and back are boosted, Hydroboost (Terry) said this will work well as he's done this many times before and eliminates an extra booster to save space. If need be i can use an adjustment/proportioning valve to adjust front to back but then Terry said the front should brake a little harder than the back as i have HX calipers front and VN calipers back. Then he said it could be a question of trial and error and i may want to use a valve if i personally dont like the feel of it. So ill have to see.

[Bart]

yes yes yes, clearence issues of course, the rods are straigt and could hit the cross member/spring housing, i got ya, very good point thanks Matt ill have to look at that some how, will be hard thow

[Bart]

Just emailed my engineer and its still good to go in terms of any RTA modification rules change.
Regarding the control arms just waiting for a reply

[Toranamat69]

Bart,

That boosted brake setup will certainly work, my concern is weather the rego guys will like it because you no longer have dual circuit brakes - they are now all on 1 hydraulic circuit.

AFAIK you have to retain dual ciruit so if you lose 1 circuit i.e. a seal goes in the M/C or slave, you have enough brakes left to safely pull the car up.

I hope those SPC bushes fit your cross shafts. It wouldn't surprise me if they were different as they sell their own cross shafts with all of their control arms as a set.

M@

[Bart]

Yeah i hear ya on the single circuit, i asked 2 different brake guys and they said it should be fine, just use the larger fluid resvoir and should be fine. But yeah i know what you mean, will have to see.
The control arm bushes may be different size so may have to turn the shafts down a little or make up a spaer/collar to take a bigger bush, no such thing as it wont fit you just have to make it fit lol

[gtrboyy]

Glad to know there is still time left for us lol.

[Bart]

Glad to know there is still time left for us lol.

sure must be cutting it thin, its not the way i like doing my work that is rushing it and spending more time on the car than with my wife and family but i have to stick to it until i get the engineer certificate and rego.

[Bart]

Engines out for the last time i hope will fully weld the exhaust manifolds, finish the other modifications and welding around the engine bay which i couldnt do while the engine was in the way. Cut a section out of the adapter plate to make room for the steering shaft so a fair bit to go yet.

This is my off sider lol my dad, he has helped out heaps, still gets under and over the car and has given some good ideas and and made bits and pieces to do certain jobs which otherwise would have been almost impossible.