Barts 2door LJ
#176
Posted 02 March 2007 - 04:11 PM
M@
#177
Posted 02 March 2007 - 05:53 PM
#178
Posted 02 March 2007 - 06:20 PM
M@
#179
Posted 02 March 2007 - 06:43 PM
That reminds me, im this close to buying a Henrob welder, i think its been discussed here before, what do you guys think of it?? http://www.amweld.com.au/frames.htm
PM me if you want about the welder, any comments would be great as im thinking of investing $999, it comes with welding hand piece, European regulators, mask and delivery to Syd
#180
Posted 02 March 2007 - 10:42 PM
lol I love having access to all the good tools at schoolI wish i had a damn mill I love doing this stuff my self but anyway.
#181
Posted 09 March 2007 - 09:22 PM
The engine mounts are now fully weldedm i ended up using nolathane bushes instead of the rubber type, same model Ford bushes, i think they were mid 90's model.
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#182 _Chaotic_
Posted 09 March 2007 - 11:30 PM
Seeing your efforts makes it seem so very simple, your sump design is very similar the what i had thought of and you seemed to have conquered most of the problems which i didn't bother throwing the money at attempting, damn those apprentice wages.
Good to see and keep up the good work!
#183
Posted 10 March 2007 - 08:03 AM
Perhaps after its over i will get a better idea on how it all come together as this is relatively new to me simply because i dont know anybody who has done this. Then i can tell you exacly how to do it.
The next biggest chalenge is modifying the nissan bell housing to mate to a Supra GB. Gee this is going to be fun. NOT
#184 _Chaotic_
Posted 10 March 2007 - 08:12 AM
#185
Posted 10 March 2007 - 08:20 AM
#186 _NRV051_
Posted 21 March 2007 - 12:31 PM
Gav
#187
Posted 21 March 2007 - 05:49 PM
The last issue i mentioned was the oil pick up plumbing, i believe i solved the problem, but i shouldnt be too confident as it is not proven yet.
Basically cut off the flange of the original pick up, made a fitting and had it welded together by Rod Andrews of Rod Andrews race cars in seven hills (i mentioned him before when i bought the components off him for the engine mounts), i must say this bloke can weld, as he should because he builds chassis's.
Any how i had to drill a hole through the sump and poke this fitting through it, a 90deg speedflow fitting will screw onto it then go to the pick up.
This is the fitting i made which will weld onto the back of the sump and to the pick up.
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This is the other fitting i made which is welded onto the original Nissan flange, this bolts onto the engine block and the shoulder will butt onto the inner side of the sump sealed with a nylon washer.
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bolted on the block
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sump bolted on with speedflow nut.
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#188
Posted 26 March 2007 - 10:53 PM
I had a guy mill it for me, then i brought it home and drilled the holes, i was thinking of elongating the holes to give it more caster but then i figured ill leave it for now
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#189 _NRV051_
Posted 27 March 2007 - 05:27 AM
#190
Posted 27 March 2007 - 11:05 PM
#191
Posted 28 March 2007 - 12:49 AM
I was originally thinking about moving the top mounting holes for castor adjustment but there is bugger all room on the LX subframe to move them and the arms have very little clearance front to back anyway so I am doing it in the bottom arms - I didn't think about moving the holes on the cross shafts though.
Have you considered using UC upper control arms for xtra castor instead - apart from the bump stops, they look like they will go on the LC/J to me - you can do that later anyway if you want. You would just have to use the UC style bumpstop.
How do you plan to get the oil pickup past the subframe and back into the sump? - it has me intrigued.
#192
Posted 28 March 2007 - 10:57 PM
The oil pickup will have a braided hose from the fitting on the front (with 150deg speed flow hose attacement) to the oil pickup fitting (90deg speed flow attachement) which is on the back/top of the sump. The hose will curve over the subframe. Ill get some pics of the setup soon.
Next is the gearbox, fun times ahead getting a gearbox custom fited NOT Figuring what gb and how best to fit it.
#193
Posted 29 March 2007 - 11:40 PM
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Edited by Bart, 29 March 2007 - 11:45 PM.
#194 _Chaotic_
Posted 30 March 2007 - 12:47 AM
#195
Posted 30 March 2007 - 06:53 PM
the sump was 8lts but due to the welder/fabricator not sticking with my template it is too damn big and wont fit behind the cross member, so it has been a bit of a disaster, i ended up cutting it up so it will fit and tomorrow will go to the huy and have him weld it up for me. The sump will hold approx 6.5ltrs.
#196
Posted 10 April 2007 - 01:52 AM
I want to use two of these, i have one so far, bought it a while ago for my RB30/26. Exhaust A/R is 105 and compressor A/R is 72.
Some pics of where they are to be mounted , real tight squeeze i must tell ya, will run approx 4-5inch dump pipe from turbo and down through the inner gaurd, then have to reduce to 3 inch as that is all i can fit, would love 5inch all the way but anyway.
another hole through the inner gaurd for the collectors into the turbo, another hole for the compressor outlet, (3 holes all up) the inner gaurd will almost be swiss cheese, hopfully wont reduce structure of the frnt end, may have to brace sections of the front end.
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Edited by Bart, 10 April 2007 - 01:56 AM.
#197 _Chaotic_
Posted 10 April 2007 - 08:28 AM
Have you got any pics of the firewall?
Are you going to run it as far back as possible?
Will also be interested to see what you do with the oil filter housing.
Keep up the progress shots, definately something i look forward to!!
#198 _jap-xu1_
Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:09 PM
it would work well as a single turbo setup.
#199
Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:42 PM
M@
#200
Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:59 PM
yeah ill cut em out and weld a plate to fill it, i wouldnt have to do that if i left the chromo shaft in standard position, but since im lowering it 1 inch as in XU1 modification i will need to cut the hump out. Also by lowering the mounting position gives me approx an inch and a half of extra space for the exhaust manifold.With your chromoly cross bars for the UCA's, are you going to mod the subframe to get rid of that hump in the middle of the cross bar?
M@
The 2 rear ports would have had the manifold primaries going through the inner gaurd next to the front wheel, with the chromo shaft an inch lower i wont have to do that.
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