Hey guys, been doing a shit load of body work to my Torrie, getting it as straight as I possible can as she will be black, been going over the body filled areas with a can of hi build filler and guide coating and also going by feel, I've only painted one of my previous cars so I'm not in all the know in what exactly to get but been doing a lot of research and can anyone help me out in getting the right stuff...
4 litres of high build filler.... Question is, which type? I'm painting acrylic, whats the pros and cons of 2k vs 1k?
4 litres of primer surfacer.... Any tips?
4 litres of black.... Can anyone name any good deep gloss black Colours from spies hecker?
4 litres of clear.... Suggestions?
20 litres of thinners and also what's the other thinners you use with colour and clear? I'm sure my mate use a different thinner type for those
Im off to the paint shop over the weekend so hope to get it all in one hit
Any help greatly appreciated, cheers guys
Need help in choosing the right products
Started by
_chev400_
, Jan 30 2013 03:52 PM
136 replies to this topic
#2
_Quagmire_
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Posted 30 January 2013 - 04:12 PM
stay with the one product from primer to top coat
general purpose thinners are fine with primers
but if your buying 20 litres just use that
gun wash to clean out your guns is a good investment too
spies hecker/ppg(protech) or any of the good name brands are fine
stay away from motospray/hi chem
just comes down to personal preference really
general purpose thinners are fine with primers
but if your buying 20 litres just use that
gun wash to clean out your guns is a good investment too
spies hecker/ppg(protech) or any of the good name brands are fine
stay away from motospray/hi chem
just comes down to personal preference really
#3
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Posted 30 January 2013 - 04:22 PM
Oh yes sorry I forgot to mention yes it's going to be all from the same company, I've good results with spies hecker so I was going to stick with that, is it acrylic thinners I use for the paint and clear? And what exactly is a reducer and a tinter? Can I add any of these to get a deeper look?
#4
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 07:10 PM
Can no one shed any light my way? I guess there musn't be any good painters in here huh :-p lol
#5
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 08:27 PM
Reducer is the 2k term for a thinner. You want thinners.
Tinters are what puts color in your paint. Adding more will change the color, not give it a "deeper look"
Apart from that, you want to use spies hecker, so buy all the above products in spies hecker and go for broke.
If your going a straight black (if you want black as black get Jet black) then you will not need a clear, but you can apply one if you wish to be forever trying to polish out fine scratches.
I dont really see anything else that needs answering that hasnt been covered 100 times recently in this very section of this very forum?
Cheers.
Tinters are what puts color in your paint. Adding more will change the color, not give it a "deeper look"
Apart from that, you want to use spies hecker, so buy all the above products in spies hecker and go for broke.
If your going a straight black (if you want black as black get Jet black) then you will not need a clear, but you can apply one if you wish to be forever trying to polish out fine scratches.
I dont really see anything else that needs answering that hasnt been covered 100 times recently in this very section of this very forum?
Cheers.
#6
TerrA LX
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 08:40 PM
Your in Sydney, what paint shop you using?
#7
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 09:55 PM
There are 2 spies hecker suppliers, one in condell park and one in moorebank, so I'll be making a trip p we to see them, cheers bomber for those tips
#8
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:01 PM
Moorebank, It that Terry's shop, just off Newbridge Rd?
He used to work the counter, A1 service there, just walk up and tell them what you need and they will sort you straight.
He used to work the counter, A1 service there, just walk up and tell them what you need and they will sort you straight.
#9
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:32 PM
Not sure mate as I haven't been there before, I haven't walked into a paint shop in years lol, it's AHG McGrath Parts & Paint if that's any help?
#10
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:35 PM
Oh, Holden spare parts, I know the place, dealer would be the last place I would be asking for help sorry.
IMO find a supplier that deals with local panel shops day in day out, no offence but a guy selling spare parts all day can only know so much about a paint product.
IMO find a supplier that deals with local panel shops day in day out, no offence but a guy selling spare parts all day can only know so much about a paint product.
#11
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:38 PM
The place I'm talking about ain't far from there if you want to call in first, sorry I don't know if he is dealing in the brand you want (haven't dropped in there for some time myself) but I know for a fact they only sell what the panel shops want (changes reps/brands every so often) so the stuff has to work.
Edited by TerrA LX, 31 January 2013 - 10:39 PM.
#12
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:41 PM
You might save a few hundred dollars too.
#13
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 10:47 PM
If your on a budget then go see VP auto paints http://wwwvgautopain...1969&kw=4069711
Fantastic help and price on their own products.
They also run a one day crash course that is free (but you have to book), still includes BBQ lunch and discount offer AFAIK.
Next one is Sat Feb 9th.
Fantastic help and price on their own products.
They also run a one day crash course that is free (but you have to book), still includes BBQ lunch and discount offer AFAIK.
Next one is Sat Feb 9th.
Edited by TerrA LX, 31 January 2013 - 10:49 PM.
#14
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:00 PM
Yeah mate I want a proper shop that supplies to panel shops etc, I might have to try the one in condell park, I'm not far from vg auto paints but not sure about their paint, I'm only going with what I know and have seen first hand....(with spies hecker) but that crash course I'll deffo look into, cheers for that
#15
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Posted 31 January 2013 - 11:11 PM
VG's ain't a bad thing, not the life time warranty some offer, in any event would be void anyway if you paint it yourself.
If you have a gunner who specifies spies heck then stick with it.
If you have a gunner who specifies spies heck then stick with it.
Edited by TerrA LX, 31 January 2013 - 11:11 PM.
#16
_Quagmire_
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 03:03 AM
tbh i prefer ppg over spices and hecker...but each to thier own...
#17
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 09:14 AM
ppg are a good brand of paint, but havent used it...i guess it would be the same application process yeah but i have used spies hecker and been happy with the results
by the way it's "SPIES HECKER"
does anyone recommend House of kolour? are they much more expensive? are the same basic materials used?
by the way it's "SPIES HECKER"
does anyone recommend House of kolour? are they much more expensive? are the same basic materials used?
#18
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:40 AM
All the brands use the same systems.
Mixing ratios may vary slightly buy you always follow the manufactures recommendation with these kind of things.
FWIW undercoats/hi fills etc vary slightly from brand to brand, one not necessarily being better than the other, just formulated to achieve different results, top coats are all the same, to be honest when it comes to spraying and paint in my opinion it is 5% product and 95% the guy behind the gun.
Mixing ratios may vary slightly buy you always follow the manufactures recommendation with these kind of things.
FWIW undercoats/hi fills etc vary slightly from brand to brand, one not necessarily being better than the other, just formulated to achieve different results, top coats are all the same, to be honest when it comes to spraying and paint in my opinion it is 5% product and 95% the guy behind the gun.
#19
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 01:49 PM
95% THE GUY BEHIND THE GUN??? 
well then i'm pretty well #@$^%& :cry:lol
i did paint my last car which was a supra but it was only rubbed back and flow coated, i guess time will tell..........
well then i'm pretty well #@$^%& :cry:loli did paint my last car which was a supra but it was only rubbed back and flow coated, i guess time will tell..........
#20
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 07:10 PM
Terry is pretty well bang on. FWIW i think spies hecker is over rated and over priced.
Personally i use Protec, and always get exceptional results...
Cheers.
Personally i use Protec, and always get exceptional results...
Cheers.
#21
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 08:00 PM
Well I won't be able to go past you bomber cause I took some of your advice in what products to choose, is protec much cheaper? Can you post any pics of some results or send me a link to view some protec results? Cheers man
#22
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 08:04 PM
Also I seen in another post that that you have some advice on, you say to base coat then sand then base then sand then base then clear, other forums I've heard many times not to sand before clear (unless you have to rectify a problem laying the base) so does sanding in between coats give you a smoother or deeper finish after the clear is applied etc?
#23
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 09:35 PM
Protec is about half the price of Spies last time i brought spies, which was a long time ago, only got the stuff once cause i was unimpressed.
First time i painted my LJ, this is acrylic, did it when i was 15, long before i was the knowital trade qualified painter type i am now, in protec. This was done under a gum tree in the back yard.
Now re application, the way i sprayed it in that case was just lay everything on cause i didnt know any better.
If i was to do it again in acylic i'd go the latter method you mention. Dont sand between base and clear, but a bit of blocking here and there doesnt hurt. Makes the finish that much more special. Theres a reason guys charge 15k to do an acrylic job, and thats after the car is prepped ready for a prepsol mask and tack. Its because of teh time in spraying and blocking.
Good finish, lay everything on, color till hiding (no shadows) then clear till you think you have enough to buff.
Unreal finish, take your time and block between stages.
I agree dont sand before clear, perhaps your not understanding that properly. You should nto put down the color with a metallic, then sand, then clear, this will expose the aluminium fleck to much and make the color totally different. You are wshing to spray in black, so although i wish you would totally forget about a clear, if you really must put a clear coat on then you can sand that before clear, so long as its uniform.
Cheerrs.
First time i painted my LJ, this is acrylic, did it when i was 15, long before i was the knowital trade qualified painter type i am now, in protec. This was done under a gum tree in the back yard.
Now re application, the way i sprayed it in that case was just lay everything on cause i didnt know any better.
If i was to do it again in acylic i'd go the latter method you mention. Dont sand between base and clear, but a bit of blocking here and there doesnt hurt. Makes the finish that much more special. Theres a reason guys charge 15k to do an acrylic job, and thats after the car is prepped ready for a prepsol mask and tack. Its because of teh time in spraying and blocking.
Good finish, lay everything on, color till hiding (no shadows) then clear till you think you have enough to buff.
Unreal finish, take your time and block between stages.
I agree dont sand before clear, perhaps your not understanding that properly. You should nto put down the color with a metallic, then sand, then clear, this will expose the aluminium fleck to much and make the color totally different. You are wshing to spray in black, so although i wish you would totally forget about a clear, if you really must put a clear coat on then you can sand that before clear, so long as its uniform.
Cheerrs.
Edited by Bomber Watson, 01 February 2013 - 09:36 PM.
#24
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 10:34 PM
Pretty helpful info there mate, just a couple of things, I've never used a single stage before, if I go that route do I have to cut and buff? Wouldn't the clear bring a deeper gloss, when my mate did my hj he did the spraying and I cut it back with 2000, took me a friggen week, but once he buffed it I swear I creamed in my pants that day, that's why it's hard for me to go in another direction, but I am willing to practice on another panel so I might give it a try, it will be a flat colour, not metallic, I heard with metallic you have to paint criss cross and all kinds of shit, I'm sure you'd know.
Another quickie......... I have a 1.4 tip gravity fed, I know that's ok for the base but can I get away with 1.4 for applying the filler and the surfacer? I was hoping I can or Am i going to have to buy another gun? If so can it be a cheapie? As its under the base.
Cheers
Another quickie......... I have a 1.4 tip gravity fed, I know that's ok for the base but can I get away with 1.4 for applying the filler and the surfacer? I was hoping I can or Am i going to have to buy another gun? If so can it be a cheapie? As its under the base.
Cheers
#25
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 01 February 2013 - 10:48 PM
yeah mate still cut and buff after the final app if you dont use a clear.
Metallics only turn out funny if your useless. The car in the pick above is a pearl metalic and i was 15, looked orright, so you gotta be real useless.
1.4 is no good for acrylic, get a 1.8.
Cheapies are ok if you only wanna do one car.
Cheers.
Metallics only turn out funny if your useless. The car in the pick above is a pearl metalic and i was 15, looked orright, so you gotta be real useless.
1.4 is no good for acrylic, get a 1.8.
Cheapies are ok if you only wanna do one car.
Cheers.
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