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Need help in choosing the right products

Started by _chev400_ , Jan 30 2013 03:52 PM

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136 replies to this topic

#26 _pocock_

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Posted 01 February 2013 - 11:02 PM

good advice there bomber spot on!!!!!!

Edited by pocock, 01 February 2013 - 11:03 PM.

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#27 _chev400_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 11:23 AM

Ok I did some research on some single stage paint and I have to say WOW!!! I seen some great jobs out there, I will deffo give it a trial on test panel, I have heard pros and cons to using ss v's bc/cc, but for 3 main reasons that it's going to be black, its better for beginners, and the car won't be a daily driver so I will give it a crack, question is now, what type??? Is acrylic the same shit as paint with a hardner etc? 2pack? And judging by a lot of pics I'm not going to cheap out on paint quality, the best pics I seen were with house of kolor and ppg etc, also what are you're thoughts on clearing over ss? As I seen a guy do this and it looked amazing, cheers mate

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#28 _Quagmire_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 12:03 PM

Ok I did some research on some single stage paint and I have to say WOW!!! I seen some great jobs out there, I will deffo give it a trial on test panel, I have heard pros and cons to using ss v's bc/cc, but for 3 main reasons that it's going to be black, its better for beginners, and the car won't be a daily driver so I will give it a crack, question is now, what type??? Is acrylic the same shit as paint with a hardner etc? 2pack? And judging by a lot of pics I'm not going to cheap out on paint quality, the best pics I seen were with house of kolor and ppg etc, also what are you're thoughts on clearing over ss? As I seen a guy do this and it looked amazing, cheers mate

black is the hardest colour to spray/prep
it's like been naked....every blemish is exposed
if you insist on doing black yourself i'd advise a acyrlic job
just because if you are not happy with your work
then it is easier to repaint/repair than 2k

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#29 _chev400_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:17 PM

Yeah I know black is the hardest to colour, this is why I'm spending shit loads of time getting it as straight as I can (by feel) before I even primer fill, but yeah good point with the acrylic.

Ok so looks like I'm going to trial single stage acrylic, I know this might be a silly question but want to be sure, with single stage the same prior process applies? Primer fill and surfacer then colour?

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#30 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:38 PM

Surfacers not really needed.

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#31 _chev400_

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 02:59 PM

Thanks bomber, hey guys I just thought of something, with how they say single stage is good if it's not in the sun all the time (I'm presuming from heat) then would the same apply to the engine bay?

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#32 TerrA LX

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Posted 02 February 2013 - 05:04 PM

black is the hardest colour to spray/prep
it's like been naked....every blemish is exposed
if you insist on doing black yourself i'd advise a acyrlic job
just because if you are not happy with your work
then it is easier to repaint/repair than 2k

Black is pretty easy to paint, the prep work is the hard part.
If you want a hard colour to spray try a flip flop.

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#33 _chev400_

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 07:18 PM

Hey guys, another quick question, getting all the gear Saturday, now once I prime panels I'm sure I'm going to get small pin holes etc, I've heard to stay away from that red spot putty in a tube, what's the best thing to use? Don't really want to use filler if there is something else a bit easier...cheers

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#34 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 07:38 PM

Polyester, U pol hot shot or dolphin glaze are good.

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#35 _chev400_

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 07:56 PM

Thanks bomber, I rang a few places, HOK surprisingly has the best price for all my stuff, just over $300 for primer, colour and 20 litre thinners, just gotta get a gun on top and I'm ready, now for the gun... does it matter much between 1.8 or 2.0 tip? And am I using that tip for both primer and colour?

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#36 TerrA LX

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 07:58 PM

Polyester, U pol hot shot or dolphin glaze are good.

Yeah, I use these no problems, AFKI it doesn't even need priming when used under 2k top coats.

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#37 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 08:29 PM

correct.

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#38 _chev400_

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 04:29 PM

Ok I primed up a panel today with acrylic primer filler (3 coats) it came out pretty rough like sand paper, it states on the can to apply straight from the can without thinning, I used a 1.8 tip but I think it may have been too thick cause I had to keep opening up the fan control (ended up opening fully) to get a hand span width from a hand span away from the panel, should I ignore what it says on the tin and thin it out 10-20% and go for another shoot and see if it improves? Or maybe change it to a 2.5 tip?

Just to add: it was approx 25 degrees and approx 55% humidity, cheers

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#39 _Quagmire_

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 05:25 PM

Ok I primed up a panel today with acrylic primer filler (3 coats) it came out pretty rough like sand paper, it states on the can to apply straight from the can without thinning, I used a 1.8 tip but I think it may have been too thick cause I had to keep opening up the fan control (ended up opening fully) to get a hand span width from a hand span away from the panel, should I ignore what it says on the tin and thin it out 10-20% and go for another shoot and see if it improves? Or maybe change it to a 2.5 tip?

Just to add: it was approx 25 degrees and approx 55% humidity, cheers

you using it as a filler yeah?
if so you can leave it and sand then thin the rest and use it as a primer...
if it's a primer you want thin it up to 50%
i have added thinners to 10-20% but it didn't fill as well sprayed a lot nicer but
a 2.0 tip may help but i tend to use upol for my pin holes

Edited by Quagmire, 10 February 2013 - 05:27 PM.

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#40 _chev400_

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 06:31 PM

Thanks quag's, makes a lot of sence, I might throw in 5-10% and if I need to I'll throw on a couple more coats.

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#41 TerrA LX

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 07:38 AM

Non thinned usually needs about a 3mm tip.
IMO throw some thinners it it and don't built it too high with each coat.

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#42 _chev400_

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:53 AM

I got a 2.5mm tip in with the new gun a bought, I'll give that a go for my next couple of coats and I'll try thinning with the 1.8mm, while I'm still on my first panel I'll see what works best and then treat the rest of the car the same, thanks terra

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#43 _Quagmire_

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 03:00 PM

http://solutions.3m....JglQX28R3361Cbl
haven't used it as yet but bomber swears it is the bomb

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#44 _chev400_

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:01 PM

I'm just using some $3 black spray paint in a can, using a long block

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#45 TerrA LX

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 01:04 AM

Spray can, or ANY other colour you have, can or old acrylic you have laying around to squirt in your gun, providing that you chop it correctly, guide coat is for a very quick sand that you are suppose to stop when you hit the primer, keep going and you will follow thru and loose the "guide".
I have found enamel (especially in those fiddly bit's cans, is the worst thing to use as guide coat as it has to be rubbed harder to show up imperfections that you can end up chopping out before you get a chance to pick them up.

FWIW when you know what to look for you don't even need guide coat half the time, especially with dry sanding.

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#46 _chev400_

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 03:19 PM

I guess that's a valid point, It wouldn't hurt to get some, thanks for the tip terra

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#47 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 07:36 PM

Plus enamels clog the sand paper. The dry stuff is the go.

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#48 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 07:02 PM

Hey guys, a quick question, I've used my filler as a filler and a primer, 50/50 filler/thinners, came out awesome, I've sanded down wet with 600, now my question is, I still have very small orange peel, the panel is smooth as glass ready for colour, now will I see that small orange peel under the colour? Or will 3-4 coats cover it? Even if I sand the colour wet 600 and go for another few coats......do I have to get every bit of peel in each step of coating to get a non peel finish? Or do I just get it all out on the final sand with 2000?