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Need help in choosing the right products

Started by _chev400_ , Jan 30 2013 03:52 PM

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#51 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 07:46 PM

Anything you can see in the undercoat will be visible in the top coat.


#52 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 07:56 PM

I agree its best to get rid of as much as you can each step.

A solid acrylic does hide a lot though :-)

#53 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:00 PM

^ agree, if the scratches are fine, by the time you hammer 7 or 8 top coats on and chop out 3 or 4 after cure time.


#54 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:13 PM

Lol so what do I do? Go to 800? I'll start having adhesion problems?, Keep sanding with 600 wet? I'll take out the peel but I assume those 600 scratches will be there, I'm sure a few coats will hide them....I hope :-/

#55 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:27 PM

Sometimes I go 800 if i am not happy,

What does the instructions recommend?

 

Is ANYTHING showing up in a second guide coat?

Are you using a hard block?

Have you let the primer/filler/surfacer cure correctly before sanding?

 

 

 

All I can say is trial a test panel if your not sure, practice practice practice.


Edited by TerrA LX, 18 February 2013 - 08:29 PM.

#56 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:33 PM

Here it is, hope it works, everything is perfect and nothing is showing from under, just these 600 scratches from wet sanding, hope the pic worked, can't work out shit with this stupid iPad

#57 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:36 PM

Either you have used black undercoat or there is no pic there sorry, can't see it.


#58 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:37 PM

Grrr pic didn't work and now I can't work out how to delete my comment, luckily I know a little more about cars than computers, how do I upload a pic with an iPad? I tried replying with an attachment, shit of a thing didn't work!

#59 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:37 PM

FYI don't be scared to re use the guide coat as you sand, at all times if possible I prefer dry sanding.


#60 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:38 PM

Nah that's the first practice panel I did, it's blacker than the black of spades

#61 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:39 PM

Can't help with the pic sorry, I use a lap top and photobucket (ie upload/store the photo on line then post a link here).


#62 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:42 PM

Yeah I uploaded it to photo bucket through my phone, tried to get it to here with no luck

http://s1131.beta.ph.../image.jpg.html

#63 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:42 PM

  


#64 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:42 PM

Yay, success!!!

#65 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:46 PM

Ah I see it now.

 

Oh fark, they look like train tracks, does it wipe off or are they permanent?



 



I sand in a cross hatch pattern.


#66 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:48 PM

   Double post :nada:


Edited by TerrA LX, 18 February 2013 - 08:51 PM.

#67 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:48 PM

They are permanent, I think the problem is I didn't use a block, I used my hand, but I didn't use much pressure and didn't spend much time at all on 1 particular area, hence why there is still orange peel

#68 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:49 PM

   tools.jpg

 

 

Like this ^


#69 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 08:54 PM

Scratches like that.....yeah, or are you referring to use those long blocks?, what about those little hand held squishy foam blocks?

#70 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:06 PM

I refer to the equipment and technique, use the largest hardest blocks/boards that will contour to the panel.

 

Also I sand in a cross hatch pattern (70 to 90 degrees to each other) by sanding one way then sand again in another, ie top left to bottom right then again from top right to bottom left.

Never in one back and forth direction and never in circular motion.


#71 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:09 PM

   tools.jpg

So like in this example I would use one board for east/west sanding and the other contoured board for north/south sanding.


#72 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:15 PM

I guess those long blocks will work well on the large parts of the car, but as for the front guards there isn't much room to get one of those big frOckers anywhere around the wheel arch down the bottom half of the guard, so are those foam blocks ok to use? How bout one of those hard rubber blocks?

#73 _Lamo_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:19 PM

http://www.ebay.com....7bf711d4&_uhb=1

 

These are the sorts of things you should use.


#74 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:19 PM

As large (long) as you can comfortably fit to follow the contour of the panel.

Soft blocks are only good for colour sanding. JMHO.


Edited by TerrA LX, 18 February 2013 - 09:23 PM.

#75 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:22 PM

Anything that is too flexible will not allow you to apply even pressure.

Sorry can't comment on the new dura blocks, they sound good but I have yet to update my old school equipment.


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