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Need help in choosing the right products

Started by _chev400_ , Jan 30 2013 03:52 PM

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136 replies to this topic

#76 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:30 PM

Lol $100 just for blocks....faaarrrrkk, I'll give the panel a trial run tomorrow with a hard rubber block dry with some guide coat with 600, and if it don't come up much better then I guess I'll have to grab me some dura blocks, with all this trial and error And purchasing all this pro stuff that ill prob never use again I should have just bought a $30k beast and saved all this time and frOckin around lol

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#77 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:38 PM

Don't worry Rob, just buy them, and when your finished with them I will come take them off your hands so you never have to see them again.

Oh and if their no good then they didn't cost me a thing. :fighting:

Cheers Terry.

Edited by TerrA LX, 18 February 2013 - 09:39 PM.

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#78 _Lamo_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:42 PM

TerraLX is right. From my very limited experience, I don't think they will be any good for larger flat panels but the boot lid and rear pillar posts etc would be good areas for the smaller blocks. I use the 5 inch and 10 inch versions,

Edited by Lamo, 18 February 2013 - 09:43 PM.

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#79 _chev400_

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Posted 18 February 2013 - 09:45 PM

Well there is still eBay, I'll probably get $17.85 back on them, you might get a cheap set of dura blocks for under $20 mate :-p lol

Cheers for all your help and tips fellas, next update most likely tomoz night.

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#80 _Quagmire_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 02:34 AM

i use my hand all the time...you just need to know how

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#81 _chev400_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 05:59 AM

Well that depends if we're still talking sanding guards quag's lol

Before i took off to work I took a quick pic of the paper I'm using, I'm 95% sure this is the right stuff as I heard if you don't use that shit that starts with a "p" it can vary the outcome, let me know if this stuff is wrong?

http://s1131.beta.ph...html?sort=3&o=0

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#82 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 12:31 PM

Where do you buy your paper?

If your close to VG's maybe you should start shopping there.

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#83 _chev400_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 03:08 PM

Im pretty sure i got it from bunnings, I didn't think it would matter, I'm thinking now it might, I'll hold off till I visit VG's before I do any more damage, I'm only a 10 min drive from there, cheers Terra

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#84 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 04:09 PM

Also, if your wet sanding use clean water and squeegee regularly (to clear the surface or waste)and rub sunlight soap into the paper to help prevent clogging.

If your dry sanding change the paper as soon as it's worn (also applies to wet sanding).

Don't try to rub the life out of the paper, just buy a box of the grade you need and change it often.

Edited by TerrA LX, 19 February 2013 - 04:15 PM.

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#85 _chev400_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 04:56 PM

Yeah using clean water in a spray bottle, spraying the gunk off the paper pretty often

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#86 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 07:19 PM

Bunnings is way overpriced.

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#87 _chev400_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 08:43 PM

I thought 86c was an ok price, I guess I could have got my happy meal for free

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#88 TerrA LX

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 09:08 PM

You find a spray bottle delivering enough water to keep the paper clear?

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#89 _chev400_

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Posted 19 February 2013 - 09:59 PM

Yeah when I spray the primer out of the paper it's clear and still gritty

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#90 _Quagmire_

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 02:04 AM

Also, if your wet sanding use clean water and squeegee regularly (to clear the surface or waste)and rub sunlight soap into the paper to help prevent clogging.
If your dry sanding change the paper as soon as it's worn (also applies to wet sanding).
Don't try to rub the life out of the paper, just buy a box of the grade you need and change it often.

i just add detergent to the bucket...
starlight soap? squiggees?
frock that's a flash way of doing it

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#91 TerrA LX

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 07:32 AM

Hey quags,

Detergent in a bucket does not have the same effect as rubbing soap into the grit.

How else do you remove the water and crud if you don't use a squeegee block?

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#92 _Quagmire_

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Posted 20 February 2013 - 01:31 PM

learn something new every day
yeah i get the therory
i normally run a hose over it
but then i'm just a bush "painter" lol

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#93 _chev400_

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Posted 23 February 2013 - 06:35 PM

Got some 600, 1200 and 2000 paper today from VG's, could tell the between the 600 I was using and the 600 from VG's, it felt dimar but the outcome was very different on the panel, so once again it's full speed ahead, my advice to others, get the proper paper, not the shit from bunnings, learn from you're mistakes!

"Felt similar"**

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#94 _chev400_

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 03:35 PM

Hey guys, quick question for you gun experts, I cleaned my gun after my last primer coat, I went to throw some colour on yesterday but didnt get that far, while running some thinners through the gun prior to pouring in the colour, the 4 holes in the fluid tip had thinners leaking out of it, after trouble shooting, I checked the few things like gaskets etc, but it's still happening, I've played around with the needle packing screw but no difference, I'm 90% sure the gun is fully clean with no build up of anything and the baffle seal ( I think it is) the nylon or plastic gasket behind the fluid tip looks perfect, and when I go to spray the thinners nothing is coming out unless I have the fluid screw nearly all the way in and shooting like a hose rather than a fan, as soon as I open it up.....nothing at all

Any ideas guys?

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#95 _chev400_

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 04:46 PM

Sorry a bit of wrong information, it's the 2 holes on the sides of the cap leaking, not the 4 holes next to the the fluid tip

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#96 _chev400_

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Posted 25 February 2013 - 06:25 PM

Never mind guys, fixed it

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#97 _chev400_

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 08:05 PM

Hey guys, quick question, at the bottom of the guard I trialed a small section wet blocking with 1200 then 2000 then buffed, came up awesome, the thing is with only 3 coats on it I rubbed through to the primer, so going to need at least 6 more coats I suspect

As bomber has stated on another thread I should sand 600 wet and throw more coats on, with that 600 wet do I get it flat with no peel before applying the next 3 coats? Or just sand to get adhesion? I'm guessing to get it flat but just checking with you guys first

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#98 TerrA LX

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 08:10 PM

I usually go min 7 coats of solid acrylic for coverage and to counter for chopping back and buffing and/or flow coating.

if your doing metallic there should be no sanding between colour and clear.

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#99 _chev400_

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Posted 26 February 2013 - 08:40 PM

Yeah was going to go at least 6 but I might go the extra distance and maybe go 9, do I get it flat though with no peel before applying again? And yeah she's flat acrylic