Too much coverage leave you open to problems too, longer drying time (at least 3 weeks before chopping and buffing, more coats maybe longer) and thick paint is easier to chip, i.e. stone chips etc.
Need help in choosing the right products
Started by
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, Jan 30 2013 03:52 PM
136 replies to this topic
#101
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 08:46 PM
#103
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 09:14 PM
That's min 3 weeks drying time on 7 coats before cutting and buffing, sun and wind be your friend here.
Good luck with it, and post a pic of your handy work when your done pls.
#104
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 09:20 PM
Wow 3 weeks...really? Well time I do have but geez 3+ weeks before I sand? Can't I wait the next day before sanding then do another 3 coats? Yeah I'll post pics, if the rest of the panel turns out the same as my trial area I'll be more than happy
#105
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 09:27 PM
Yeah, min 3 weeks is how long it takes for the thinners to evaporate, going at it too early may lead to sanding scratches showing thru at a later date due to sink back and other problems with trapped thinners.
Same applies for the primer etc.
Careful spraying in this high humidity too.
#106
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 09:31 PM
oh the joy's of acrylic...
#107
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 09:36 PM
Well shit...I only waited like 1-2 days with a couple of stages with the primer, and only a couple of days with the colour before cutting it back, if what you say is accurate....and only doing one panel at a time it's going to take me a year waiting 3 weeks between every stage, that being 2-3 stages of filling and priming then 2-3 stages of colour :-/ fffaaarrrkkkk!!!
#108
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Posted 26 February 2013 - 09:50 PM
Check what the instructions say on the can, or search for the instruction data of the products your using if you want to double check.
#109
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Posted 27 February 2013 - 09:27 AM
I'll check all the info on the paint and thinners, I had a quick search this morning and I seen that a few people give a week and some people give upto a month, I had no idea about that, when my mate painted my HJ we did it all within 10 days, paint-clear-cut n buff and it lasted another 4 years before I sold it
So if went ahead and only waited say a week between stages, and if 6 months down the track I start to see these scratches popping up, can I sand and buff? Or is it a whole different scenario?
So if went ahead and only waited say a week between stages, and if 6 months down the track I start to see these scratches popping up, can I sand and buff? Or is it a whole different scenario?
#110
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Posted 27 February 2013 - 10:16 AM
If the scratches are in the primer then you will have to sand back to the primer.
I too have "gotten away" with "quick chop and spray jobs" but it is not the recommended procedure.
At TAFE we used to force dry them in the spray booth so you could cram the hours into the lessons, we were very methodical in out proceedure and the panels came out looking schmick but it didn't matter what they looked like in a couple of months as the next class comes along and starts the process all over again with the first step being chemical strip.
Point being, it can be done, but you have to be on top of it, especially around repairs and where there is alot of primer/filler etc.
#111
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Posted 27 February 2013 - 03:04 PM
I see what your getting at, since I do have the time as it'll be at least 12 months before she gets on the road then I guess I'll play it safe now rather than pay later.
so can I do all the priming stages within a week, wait 2-3 weeks then sand and do all the colour stages within a week then wait 2-3 weeks before cutting and buffing? Or is it after every stage?
so can I do all the priming stages within a week, wait 2-3 weeks then sand and do all the colour stages within a week then wait 2-3 weeks before cutting and buffing? Or is it after every stage?
#112
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Posted 27 February 2013 - 07:32 PM
It's a how long a piece of string question, the answer is... twice the distance to the centre.
To clarify, it really depends on the type of thinners used (standard, fast, retarded etc), how thick the coverage is, how long it's been in the sun and wind and the average temperature and humidity etc etc.
Sorry I can't answer your question.
FWIW I use my thumb nail AS A GUIDE to the softness of the coating, if it leaves any kind of imprint then it is too soft to cut.
#113
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Posted 27 February 2013 - 09:01 PM
Well to be a little more precise, it's in a 6 car garage under the house, no sun or wind, always under 65% humidity and always between 20-25 degrees when I paint, I guess I'll just have to judge it as per all the pros and cons and hope for the best, cheers mate
#114
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Posted 27 February 2013 - 09:10 PM
FWIW I use my thumb nail AS A GUIDE to the softness of the coating, if it leaves any kind of imprint then it is too soft to cut.
Just to clarify, I mean I press my thumb nail into the paint to try make an imprint.
#115
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 05:41 AM
Cool, I shall use this method as well, cheers for all your help terry, I owe you a cruise and a beer
#116
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 08:53 AM
Your welcome, and that would be good to catch up over a cold one some day soon.
#117
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 12:04 PM
Sounds like a plan mate, are you in the Torana club that hangs around? A few months back I seen a bunch of Torries in the Maccas car park out near arndell park, I was going to pull in but had no time
#118
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 02:18 PM
I'm friends with a few in the Sydney Torana Club, done a couple of their shows, cruise etc and Tfest.
Maybe I could drop by with one or two of the guys one day.
You may want to join up with their club.
#119
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 03:40 PM
Yeah I probably will join the club, I don't mind doing the cruises and heading to events in groups etc, I wouldn't mind speaking to some of the boys to get some good info of some engineers as well, I'll be heading to see a few soon to see what they will and won't let me have
#120
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 06:02 PM
If you are doing a pannel at a time three weeks should be easy, paint on one pannel put it in the corner start on the next.
#121
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 08:18 PM
^ not just good looks eh Bomber.
#122
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 10:29 PM
Yeah I kinda figured that and was just going to do the whole process one panel at a time then by the time I do the whole car ill come round and start at the first panel again, cheers for the tip anyways bomber
#123
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Posted 28 February 2013 - 10:57 PM
yeah best to leave it as long as you can to gas off so when you cut and polish it it will hold its shine longer if you cut and polish it in a week or so it will polish up alright but the shine wont last that long, you can give it a light cut now with 600 to 800 and it will hel;p
it gas off better then leave it for 3 months or so while your doing your panels then cut and polish it and apply a good canuba wax
thats how a lot of old timers do it the longer the better with acrylic i have done all the panels on a ute were doing and they have been sitting 2 months so far and because we are not in a hurry probably leave them another 2months before cut and polishng
#124
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Posted 01 March 2013 - 11:47 AM
Thanks for the info pocock, so what does cutting it back with 600-800 do to help the process?
#125
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Posted 01 March 2013 - 11:07 PM
if you give it a light cut back with the 600 to 800 it opens up the surface a bit and lets the solvent escape a lot better so i have been told. i have been told by quite a few older guys that used to spray acrylic lacquer all the time and still do that the best method for
a lasting job is to spray 2 to 3 coats of colour chop it the next day with 600 then leave it for a week or so then apply another 2 or 3 coats cut the next day with 600 and leave again for a week or so ,,,repeat this procedure till you get the required number of coats
usually 8 to 10 coats then chop the last coat and leave for as long as you can before cutting and polishing,, this method although
takes a lot more time is supposed to let the solvents escape a lot more instead of laying all your coats down in one go and stops cracking and crows feet down the track i have used this method and also sprayed it all in one session as well ,, every one has there own methods i guess but the main thing is to give it plenty of time after the final coat before cutting and polishing 2 months at least if possible and then apply a good canuba wax i have heard of guys that use this method have had cars they have painted that still look good from 10 feet after 25 years
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