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RUST REPAIRS ON LJ GTR

Started by _mikecatts_ , Mar 05 2013 01:12 PM

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#76 N/A-PWR

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Posted 09 June 2013 - 07:39 PM

Getting into the real stuff now Mike,

A GTR, and you never cease to amaze me, all you need to do is show us a 4 door to a 2 door conversion. Dave I


#77 _mikecatts_

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Posted 10 June 2013 - 06:44 AM

Getting into the real stuff now Mike,

A GTR, and you never cease to amaze me, all you need to do is show us a 4 door to a 2 door conversion. Dave I

if you look at my xu-1 build thread... i alreadt have done a 4 to 6 conversion on a lc coupe...


#78 _mikecatts_

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 07:48 PM

Hi all...

 

Got some ore done on the car the last few days.. I have done some renos, the missus is happy.. Im taking a week off the house to finnsh this car. :)

 

I finnishd the door, looks good.

 

I took off the old roof as it had a sunroof at one stage..

Both rear drip rails needed replacing..

Sanblasted and POR 15 the donour roof, pulled apart the donour drip rails.. Now to fix, sanblast and replace..

 

Alls good..

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#79 N/A-PWR

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Posted 17 June 2013 - 08:03 PM

Hi Mike,

Nice Job, never seen a Torana without the roof skin before, Well Done. Dave I


#80 _mikecatts_

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 07:41 AM

Hi Dave... They are pretty flimsey....  A roll bar would be nice... I might try and fit a hidden one in my toy...


#81 _mikecatts_

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Posted 18 June 2013 - 07:45 AM

http://www.gmh-toran...rebuild/page-13

Getting into the real stuff now Mike,

A GTR, and you never cease to amaze me, all you need to do is show us a 4 door to a 2 door conversion. Dave I


#82 _j.e.d._

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 03:40 AM

Hey Mike, great work as usual. Just a quick question as I'm not sure if it's been asked before, when you POR15 the panels on the underside & then weld together, is the POR15 still effective in protecting the bare steel at the weld? or do you cavity wax afterward or something? just curious mate as I'm looking at doing a similar thing but thought maybe a weld through primer would be good to use as well. Cheers  :D


#83 _mikecatts_

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 07:54 AM

Hi JED... The way I plug weld... I use a 2mm centering drill bit and drill trought the top sheet and let the 2mm bit drill into the bottom sht... That way the POR 15 is cleared away from the weld... The POR will burn, And correct..when ALL welding is done it then gets cavity wax or fish oil.... The welds will oxadise and rust..

 

If Im spot welding,, I scrap away the POR 15 and paint with weld through primer where Im going to spot... Its in this post some ware.

 

The POR 15 will be covering most of the metal..exept where you weld.. I think its better than just bare metal or welding primer alone.

 

Weld through primer is designed for spot welding mainkly.. It tends to "blow back" when mig welding... you have to scrape it away...

 

Ill do some pics to show how I "plug weld"...

 

Mike

Hey Mike, great work as usual. Just a quick question as I'm not sure if it's been asked before, when you POR15 the panels on the underside & then weld together, is the POR15 still effective in protecting the bare steel at the weld? or do you cavity wax afterward or something? just curious mate as I'm looking at doing a similar thing but thought maybe a weld through primer would be good to use as well. Cheers  :D


#84 _j.e.d._

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 08:46 AM

That's awesome mate, thanks for the detailed run down as that explains it much better for me. Looking forward to seeing those plug weld pics.

Cheers   :D


#85 tuxedoss

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Posted 19 June 2013 - 11:40 AM

Another question for you Mike, how did yo remove the skin from the side drip rails on the new roof, and how do you plan to weld it along the sides. Not sure if the LJ is the same as LX but they are like a continual crimp weld along the sides.


#86 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 07:31 AM

Ill post pics as I go... Going to attempt today.

Another question for you Mike, how did yo remove the skin from the side drip rails on the new roof, and how do you plan to weld it along the sides. Not sure if the LJ is the same as LX but they are like a continual crimp weld along the sides.


#87 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 07:38 AM

Hi all...

 

I managed to repair, sandblast and POR 15 the roof rails, inside the rear drip rail area and inside the donour drip rail inners and outers...

 

I welded the rear drip rail inners on.. Por 15 and all rust s gone.

I managed to get inside and behind the inner rail with POR 15.. All sealed.

 

When I replace the roof, Ill then weld on the outer rails..

 

Im going to do the roof today... Should be interesting..

 

Ive posted a couple of pics of how I plug weld.. I use an alumin block to put behind... good penetration as strong...

 

Mike

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#88 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 06:53 PM

Hi all...

 

I managed to get the roof panel in position and tacked in place.. I started to plug weld up... Ive had a LONG day and thats enough, Ill finnish tomm or the weekend....

 

It turned out well, very easy to fit, I used some windows to make sure the gaps were even.. I used a complete car as a guide.. No probs...

 

Its going to be fun grinding the plugs in the drip rail... Will take my time.. I did the plugs every 20mm or so.. They look messy, I wanted good penetration so I held the trigger for a bit longer..

 

All told, as good as new.. and not that hard to do really.. It took longer to get the donour roof ready as to taking off and putting on a new one..

 

I will clean and etch prime when finnished...

 

 

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#89 tuxedoss

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Posted 20 June 2013 - 10:38 PM

Looks like a long day, you got a lot done. Did you have much trouble in getting the side gutters off the new skin. I've got a skin with the remains of the gutters still attached, only way I can see to get them off is carefully grinding from underneath but a bit worried of grinding too far and eating into the skin.

#90 _mikecatts_

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Posted 21 June 2013 - 06:17 AM

Yep..Thats how I did it.. Slowly ground it away after cutting off the drip rail... I used a 6mm grinding disc on its side...worked very well... Just take your time and dont hold in one spot for too long as it will heat up and move.. and the panel becomes very floppy once the rails are off... B carefull...  Its do-able..

Looks like a long day, you got a lot done. Did you have much trouble in getting the side gutters off the new skin. I've got a skin with the remains of the gutters still attached, only way I can see to get them off is carefully grinding from underneath but a bit worried of grinding too far and eating into the skin.


#91 _mikecatts_

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Posted 25 June 2013 - 06:45 PM

Hi all...

 

The roof is on and welded tight... Turned out very well.. Not too hard to do.. Just takes time..

 

I sandblasted and POR 15 inside the drip rails on the roof side and making sure to get some behind and in front of the rear drip rails... I did the windows while I was at it... All sealed tight and wont rust..

 

All I have to do to finnish now is to clean the roof a bit and etch prime.. Fit the bonnet / doors and push out the rear beaver as its in a bit.. Then all done.. Ill take some final pics and post..

 

Guys I can honestyly say this car is now RUST FREE.... when it gets painted... It will stay that way...

 

I sealed it as much as I could with POR 15, cavity wax, seam sealer, etc... It will out last us anyways and is now a part of Australian motoring history..

 

He should be happy...

 

I think I did a good job.. Took way longer than thought, you get that... Its done now.. Thats the main thing..

 

Im having a break for a bit.. Then I have a 1970 LC rally red XU-1 to fix the A-pillars and line up the doors/ guards etc... Plus any other nasties which will be there...

 

Ill keep you all posted..

Mike

 

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#92 _mikecatts_

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 01:51 PM

Hi all....

This car is officially completed..

I sanded/rust killed and etched primed the roof... I didnt sandblast as the whole car will need some sandblasting before it gets painted..

 

I POR 15 the rain channel and windows lips, making sure to do the rear drip rails.. The using the POR 15 Tie coat on top..... no more rust there .. ever  :).

 

I cavity waxed EVERYWARE I could.... Should be ok to sit for a bit before it gets painted... All told.. about 300 hours (he wasnt charged this).... and $1000 worth of materials.. It does add up...

 

I fiddled with the door gaps again.. I used the trusty old paddle pop stick as my gage...all good and even....

 

Im very happy with the car, Hoping the owner is too......

 

Looking back over the pics from when I got it... There was a LOT of work into this car.... Was a mess, now its beautiful.

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#93 _mikecatts_

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 01:54 PM

I forgot... I pushed the rear beaver out as far as I could to match the boot.. It has had a rear hit at some stage.. Not perfect, buts heaps better..


#94 debkar

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 02:45 PM

Hi Mike

Just having a look at this thread, awesome work, well done again

Regards Simon

#95 tuxedoss

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Posted 29 June 2013 - 03:56 PM

Nice work, you get a lot done and the work looks great, in the time it took you to get that roof skin on I've ground about 2 foot of gutter off my skin on one side.

#96 VAUGHANY

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Posted 13 September 2014 - 08:40 PM

I am restoring a LC torana coupe at the moment have found your thread very useful

Have to renew roof skin and would not have attempted if it hadn't been for this page

Really like your work and want to say how much I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, worth its weight in gold.

Cheers

Kym


#97 _mikecatts_

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Posted 14 September 2014 - 06:44 AM

I am restoring a LC torana coupe at the moment have found your thread very useful

Have to renew roof skin and would not have attempted if it hadn't been for this page

Really like your work and want to say how much I appreciate you sharing your knowledge, worth its weight in gold.

Cheers

Kym

Hi Kym.. Its an older thread of mine.. Keep looking as Ive done a few more cars.. Im working on  LC gtr at the momonet.. No roof replacement, but a few other items not covered before. and Ta for the kind words..

I post pics/summery to help and glad that it has helped.. any questions.. Just ask.

Mike


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