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Youngy's LX Hatch

Started by _youngy_11_ , Jun 19 2006 10:39 PM

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#26 _kangur_

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 03:48 PM

I noticed that the cut out for the shifter has been butchered so this might mean it ran a big motor with a strong gearbox of some description e.g. a top loader or something like that.The rear seat rests look like they are of an SS to.Did you get the slr instruments with the 2 dashes for 100 bucks? if so than you have got yourself a bargain.

#27 _youngy_11_

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 04:03 PM

Yea i got both dashes (SLR i think and normal) for $100. They came with 2 facials and a spare glass.(One light and one dark woodgrain)

Im preety stoked with the price of the whole thing, when i see a LH sedan shell for $420 on ebay with a while to go lol

thanks ryan

#28 _rhysandhisLJ_

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 09:56 PM

hey liam, i believe it's 125kW per tonne, which i guess is kinda bad with my situation and my new engine :P 185kW:1.1Tonne. what the cops don't know won't hurt them i suppose.

Great car you've got yourself youngy! finding hatches in good nick is a hard task these days! your diff looks like the standard banjo.. most likely 2.78 or 3.08 ratios.. i could be wrong.

With front sway bars i've been led to believe they're installed over the top of the engine (as you see in many high performance cars) in this case you don't have one.

Hope to see some progress and very nice to see another torrie being brought back to life :P

#29 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 26 June 2006 - 10:27 PM

The start of another reserection.

Good luck with it all. Get cashed up and go for it.

#30 MRLXSS

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 02:05 PM

Love your Purple Pedals! You gonna keep them?

#31 Heath

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 04:20 PM

With front sway bars i've been led to believe they're installed over the top of the engine (as you see in many high performance cars) in this case you don't have one.

That's a thing called a Strut Tower Brace; the kind of thing you see on Drift cars to stiffed up the structual section infront of the firewall.

Posted Image
Orange thing is the Sway Bar. The more expensive ones are generally "front mounted" apposed to the pictured one being "rear mounted", I think cars like QIKSLR, 2WILD4U and LXCHEV all have front mounted sway bars, but I may be wrong there.

#32 _youngy_11_

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Posted 27 June 2006 - 08:49 PM

I highly doubt i will keep those pedals.
Depends on what colour i paint the car.

Thanks for that Heath.

ryan

#33 _youngy_11_

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 09:25 PM

Hey,
I have got everything out of it now. I took the rear hatch hinges out and notice a little bit of rust to the side of one of the holes where it bolts to the C-Pillar and it looks to be a hole. I will get a pic up to see if its bad, but i don't think that part is meant to be solid anyway??

Anyone else got any ideas on the diff?
And what engine she had in it??
Just of peace of mind really.

Other than that the shell look good with only a little bit for rust in the doors and rear lower end of the quarter panels.

thanks ryan

#34 Gump

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 06:02 PM

umm write down the info off the tags and post it up here. some one will beable to figure out what it left the factory with. as for whats happened to after that your best bet is to talk to the old owners.

#35 _youngy_11_

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Posted 30 June 2006 - 09:57 PM

Yes will do,
Thanks ryan

#36 _youngy_11_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 07:12 PM

hey,
I have moved her into the back of the garage where she will be for a while. Stripped it back to the shell last week. Not too much rust. Photo below is of the hole next to the left hatch hinge. Is that whole section meant to be solid??
From what I can see is that the first part is hollow then from where the hinge bolts to the pillar is solid. ( if ya know what i mean).

Posted Image

Pics of the shell:
Posted Image

Posted Image

This is a problem I have is that the car has 3 layers of paint. the stock one> prime > purple > prime > black.
Heres a photo where i scraped it back with a screw driver.
Posted Image

I took the tags off and brought some of the Bunnings Paints stripper to get the layers off those lol. They came up nice.

So what way do you think will be the best to get the shell back to bare metal??
Dads friend recons theres a blasting method calles Bead blasting that is like sand blasting but doesn't wreck the surface. Anyone heard of it???

What about using the paint stippers??
Whats the process of getting it off and do you have to do anytrhing to the bare metal so that there isn't still strippers on it. lol

Still got more.
All the CODES: Can someone sort through these or direct me to a link.

Model: LX8UH77 (Dads mate recons the "LX8" means it had a V8????)
Body No: 598207M
Trim: 1887-60A
Paint: 568-15950

Eng: L16 Trans: MC6 RRAxel: GU8


Thanks
ryan

#37 _chevy_253_torana_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 08:20 PM

i reckomend my personal method an electric drill with a wire brush on the end of it but if your going to be doing the whole car it may take a while

but certainly a lot cheaper than beadblasting

cheers chevy

#38 _youngy_11_

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Posted 04 July 2006 - 08:27 PM

Yea, do you know a rough price on the bead blasting???

thanks ryan

#39 _youngy_11_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 10:07 AM

I checked out Canberra torana club and the paint code 15950=charmois
and the trim code 60A=charmois vinyl.

I suspect that charmois is the yellowish cream colour.

The transmission MC6 is a 4 speed manual that is for the 1900 engine only, thats the 4 cylinder engine???

Couldn't find anything on engine: L16 and RRAxel: GU8??

I know its not the best pic but what do you guys think of the rust next to the hinge hole??

Any other suggestion would be appreciated

Many Thanks
ryan

#40 _Herne_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:02 AM

The word is chamois no r. the one on the website spelt with an r is I presume a mistake.

Cheers
Herne

#41 makka

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 11:15 AM

L16 is for the 4 cyl. opel I think.
the model number LX8UH77 is for a sunbird (4 cyl) the 8 doesnt stand for V8.
if you get some pics of the front end I can tell you if it has been converted to suit a 6 or 8, it probably has

#42 _youngy_11_

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Posted 05 July 2006 - 02:32 PM

Yea I think your right makka.

Here are some pics of the engine bay, is that what your after.
Posted Image

Posted Image

And a dodgy one from when she was in the yard
Posted Image

Also whats the go with rego if it had a 4 in it and im upgrading it to a 6 with 150kw. I think the old 4's only had like 70-80kw??

thanks ryan

Edited by youngy_11, 05 July 2006 - 02:38 PM.

#43 _youngy_11_

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 05:39 PM

Just an update. I have since jacked her up and have it resting on car stands. I have taken the front end out.

I have started gettign around and seeing panel beaters/ blasters. I went to see a bead/garnet blaster the other day, he explained heaps about the process involved and why he is the guy to go with lol. He seemed like a quality guy that is passionate about people restoring oldies. He has been blasting for 15 years, has had the business for 10 years. I also saw some of his work and photos of restored cars and they were smick. Over the next couple of weeks hes coming up to have a look at it.

I also have a friend of a friend thats a panel beater coming up on Friday to check it out to.

Will keep updated.

Thanks ryan

#44 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 06:10 PM

Coming along nicely man, good to see your willing to do it the right way the first time.

Keith

#45 _ChiaLX_

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 07:29 PM

Looks like no one has answered these questions for you yet, but as far as i can tell it is a 6 cyl front end and a banjo diff.
The ratio we cant tell you . It is stamped on the crown wheel if you pull the diff out. another way to tell is rotate a wheel ten revolutions and see how many times the yoke turns in comparison and then divide one by the other. something like that :huh: . Can someone enlighten us on how to do this.

#46 LX2DR

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Posted 18 July 2006 - 11:47 PM

You should be able to get the diff ratio from the slinger plate on the yoke.

Checked my spare centre, its stamped on it.

Posted Image

#47 _youngy_11_

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Posted 19 July 2006 - 12:16 PM

Thanks for that ill get under under and have a look. Soon

ryan

#48 _ChiaLX_

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Posted 19 July 2006 - 05:36 PM

If the diff yoke has been changed eg. 6cyl to v8 then it will show what diff ratio the yoke came from. this method is ok but not full proof when you dont know the history of the car.

#49 LX2DR

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Posted 19 July 2006 - 09:12 PM

1/ If the diff yoke has been changed� eg. 6cyl to v8 then it will show what diff ratio the yoke came from. this method is ok but not full proof when you dont know the history of the car.

2/ another way to tell is rotate a wheel ten revolutions and see how many times the yoke turns in comparison and then divide one by the other. something like that


1/ Of course your right, but I did use his photo and it looks like it has been together a long, long time.

If it hasn't been tampered with, the slinger will be correct!

B/ I know & agree that there is only one-way to be sure, open it and check the crown wheel directly.

2/ You "have" to turn both wheels together, if you jack it up and only turn 1 wheel the other will rotate backwards on the side gears or if it is let to slip will give a false reading.
If you lift 1 wheel and turn it, the side gears will multiply (I think) the yoke revs.
Better on the ground, mark the tail shaft or yoke and the tire, roll the wheel 1 full rev, get someone to lay beside the car and count the revolutions of the yoke.

If the yoke turns 3 1/2 turns, 3.5 ratio.

All hypothetical, see point 1 part B.

Does he want too or need too open the diff?

Use the slinger as a guide and do the 1 rotation test to confirm.

Edited by LX2DR, 19 July 2006 - 09:15 PM.

#50 _youngy_11_

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 03:08 PM

Yea thanks for that. I don't really need to know the ratios for now but are interested to see.

I still have to do some research as im looking to go with the ecotech or alloytech engine with rear disks so the diff will need some altering along the way.

Will i have to get the diff to have the same ratios as the car had with the V6 in it??

thanks ryan
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