Youngy's LX Hatch
Started by
_youngy_11_
, Jun 19 2006 10:39 PM
403 replies to this topic
#52
_youngy_11_
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Posted 20 July 2006 - 06:59 PM
Hey,
Just spent 2 hours working on the hatch.
The number stamped in the diff is 3.08.
I took the air box, from the inside out. Took the windscreen wiper motor and arms off, and cleaned all the leaves and shit that was in that section where all the air gets sucked from like under the removable grill that sits on the outside of the windscreen between it and the bonnet. lol
Got the panel beater comign up tomoz so i thought i should give it a clean.haha
thanks ryan
Just spent 2 hours working on the hatch.
The number stamped in the diff is 3.08.
I took the air box, from the inside out. Took the windscreen wiper motor and arms off, and cleaned all the leaves and shit that was in that section where all the air gets sucked from like under the removable grill that sits on the outside of the windscreen between it and the bonnet. lol
Got the panel beater comign up tomoz so i thought i should give it a clean.haha
thanks ryan
#53
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Posted 23 July 2006 - 01:13 PM
On the last couple of pages in this month Australian Muscle Car mag there was an article on a LH SLR and it also had all the factory numbers/codes of paint, trim and also i noticed the Rear axel code.
Mine is GU7=2.78 ratio diff (from memory)
The GU4=3.08.
So yea either the mag is wrong or the diff in the car has been changed, but as LX2DR has said the diff does look like it hasn't been changed in ages.
Any thoughts??
ryan
Mine is GU7=2.78 ratio diff (from memory)
The GU4=3.08.
So yea either the mag is wrong or the diff in the car has been changed, but as LX2DR has said the diff does look like it hasn't been changed in ages.
Any thoughts??
ryan
#54
LX2DR
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Posted 28 July 2006 - 11:06 PM
Checked mine, GU4 and original running gear with 3.08 center.On the last couple of pages in this month Australian Muscle Car mag there was an article on a LH SLR and it also had all the factory numbers/codes of paint, trim and also i noticed the Rear axel code.
Mine is GU7=2.78 ratio diff (from memory)
The GU4=3.08.
So yea either the mag is wrong or the diff in the car has been changed, but as LX2DR has said the diff does look like it hasn't been changed in ages.
Any thoughts??
ryan
#55
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 05:27 PM
How did you get on with the panel beater ? What sort of price are you looking at for the rust repairs and panel beating ? Will the front have to be taken of as the front panel looks pretty had it , If there is much rust in the pillars as it is near impossible to do properly , i couldnt see any rust in sills , how are they ? I am interested to compare prices for repairs and painting with what i am quoted up here , TREX
#56
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 09:49 PM
Hey,
Sorry for the long post but well worth reading.
Yes I did have the panel beater come and have a look which was a friend of a friend and he said it was easy as. Which i thought was a bit of an understatement, the guy is only young and it shows how you have to do your research before jumping into something.
The garnet blaster came up later in the night, he got their at 7:30 and left at 10:30. It shows what experience, passion and enjoyment does for you. This guy as soon as he turned up noticed there was some rust under the fan box next to the wheel arch, straight away he knew it wasn't normal. He looked at the chassi rail and noticed that it had had been "dodgly" repaired, he also saw that the rail had minor undulations in it which he said would have been repaired by the same person when the car had gotten a shunt. He said the car would have to go on a caroliner(i think) to be checked to make sure that it is all straight because if the car isn't straight you will never get your tyres alinged.
The doors sills have a bit of rust and the cheaper way to go is to buy 2 sedan doors, take the skin off and join both to form the londer 2 door skin. He said with the right panel beater you can get the join unoticable even in bare metal to a unknowing viewer.
The rear end around the hinges need doing so does the bottom of the C-pillar which he said can be done but is much easier if you can get a section cut from another car, but thats not easy either.
The U shaped piece that is above the hatch striker need to be ground off and re made, as it has been welded horrible and also has rust in it.
The front end has been fixed before had to, which he belives will need re doing as surface rust is appearing now.
Other than that he said it was worth doing but would be great of you could pick up another hatch that is cheap or has been written off with good doors good front end.
Now this guy has been out of the panel beating for 15 years and he could notice all this.
He believes that the repairs will cost around $5000 and for him to blast it $3500.
Now i know alot of you's will say thats a rip off and you can get your car blasted for $1000.
But he told me to go to another cheap blaster, so i did and to see the difference in quality, professionalism and respect for the car. When i turned up in the other yard the guy didn't want a bar of what i was asking, blasted guards we sitting in the wet grass just to name a few things.
This arvo quality blaster stayed back till 8 showed me an old chev in bare metal and highlighted all the areas where the rust is and how they have unstitched areas to get the rust out. And where the rust has come from and old shit repair that can be hidden by paint and bog, VERY Suprising
(I could tell you the whole story of what happened to the customer if you want)
Thanks Ryan
Sorry for the long post but well worth reading.
Yes I did have the panel beater come and have a look which was a friend of a friend and he said it was easy as. Which i thought was a bit of an understatement, the guy is only young and it shows how you have to do your research before jumping into something.
The garnet blaster came up later in the night, he got their at 7:30 and left at 10:30. It shows what experience, passion and enjoyment does for you. This guy as soon as he turned up noticed there was some rust under the fan box next to the wheel arch, straight away he knew it wasn't normal. He looked at the chassi rail and noticed that it had had been "dodgly" repaired, he also saw that the rail had minor undulations in it which he said would have been repaired by the same person when the car had gotten a shunt. He said the car would have to go on a caroliner(i think) to be checked to make sure that it is all straight because if the car isn't straight you will never get your tyres alinged.
The doors sills have a bit of rust and the cheaper way to go is to buy 2 sedan doors, take the skin off and join both to form the londer 2 door skin. He said with the right panel beater you can get the join unoticable even in bare metal to a unknowing viewer.
The rear end around the hinges need doing so does the bottom of the C-pillar which he said can be done but is much easier if you can get a section cut from another car, but thats not easy either.
The U shaped piece that is above the hatch striker need to be ground off and re made, as it has been welded horrible and also has rust in it.
The front end has been fixed before had to, which he belives will need re doing as surface rust is appearing now.
Other than that he said it was worth doing but would be great of you could pick up another hatch that is cheap or has been written off with good doors good front end.
Now this guy has been out of the panel beating for 15 years and he could notice all this.
He believes that the repairs will cost around $5000 and for him to blast it $3500.
Now i know alot of you's will say thats a rip off and you can get your car blasted for $1000.
But he told me to go to another cheap blaster, so i did and to see the difference in quality, professionalism and respect for the car. When i turned up in the other yard the guy didn't want a bar of what i was asking, blasted guards we sitting in the wet grass just to name a few things.
This arvo quality blaster stayed back till 8 showed me an old chev in bare metal and highlighted all the areas where the rust is and how they have unstitched areas to get the rust out. And where the rust has come from and old shit repair that can be hidden by paint and bog, VERY Suprising
(I could tell you the whole story of what happened to the customer if you want)
Thanks Ryan
#57
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 10:09 PM
i truly believe you, been there, done that.
two things to bare in mind.
1 the blaster mate at $3500 has charged you $2000 for the 2 hr tour.
2 the bad blaster has just saved you $2000 for 2 days work to fix his little neglience.
in the end you pay for what you get and you must be happy with the job/dollars spent.
two things to bare in mind.
1 the blaster mate at $3500 has charged you $2000 for the 2 hr tour.
2 the bad blaster has just saved you $2000 for 2 days work to fix his little neglience.
in the end you pay for what you get and you must be happy with the job/dollars spent.
Edited by ALX76, 29 July 2006 - 10:10 PM.
#58
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Posted 29 July 2006 - 10:59 PM
Yes and no. This guy was willing to stay back and showed no hesitation in coming up and has and always given courtesy calls and i haven't agreed to anything or even worked out a proper quote he just said $3500.
But definately agree with you
But definately agree with you
#59
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 12:58 AM
hey youngy
you lost me a bit.
bead blaster quoted $3500
estimates panel repair at $5000
you paid for a sunbird $600
paint $3000+?
Flares $500+
wheels and tyres to fill the gap $2000?
disc brake diff $1000?
tail shaft 300?
ecotec + auto $2000?
exhaust $1000?
engineer $1000?
sound ???
tint windows $400
RWC ????
commy front brakes ????
radiator ?????
unleaded filler neck
EFI fuel tank
adapt dash to ecotec senders.
rego
shockers
bushes
neon lights?
carpet
consule
sports steering wheel
air con
alarm
what else is there?
caroline? $1000+?
Don't take this the wrong way, just if you are going to pay someone to do all the work, either buy one finished. buy a finished roller, buy a better coupe to start on. maybe do a tafe course at night, and take the car as the class project?
I figure if I buy the service manual, a few tools etc and spend 2 days to service my car, it cost the same as if I took it somewhere, I know it was done, and I still have the tools for next service, at which time I buy say a trolley jack and stands.
before you know it you have a good set of tools.
How long will it take you to remove the paint, how long will it take to save $3500?
forget about paying someone to repair anything that bolts on if you can buy a good one for less. at that price I would find a body already done, repaired!
a good door shell is way cheaper than repairing yours, unless you do it.
4 door front panels fit just fine, buy one of those to practice welding on.
tafe has courses in that to. how long to save $5000, probably less than the time to buy a mig welder and learn.
I would hate to pay him $3500, then find the panel beating is way more than $5000
did you get a quote on dipping the car?
maybe work on this car while you save up to buy one already finished, at least you will know what to look for!
the car you bought is cheap, it is worth more in parts than what you payed.
as for the damaged rail, get a quote on repair.
just remember you have a sunbird, maybe a 5ltr ss would be worth paying people good money!
5 mates with a couple of cases of beer and a dozen pizzas could make a car like yours free of paint in a w/end. well the outside!
have you done a security check on the car before you spend money on it?
just my opinion.
you lost me a bit.
bead blaster quoted $3500
estimates panel repair at $5000
you paid for a sunbird $600
paint $3000+?
Flares $500+
wheels and tyres to fill the gap $2000?
disc brake diff $1000?
tail shaft 300?
ecotec + auto $2000?
exhaust $1000?
engineer $1000?
sound ???
tint windows $400
RWC ????
commy front brakes ????
radiator ?????
unleaded filler neck
EFI fuel tank
adapt dash to ecotec senders.
rego
shockers
bushes
neon lights?
carpet
consule
sports steering wheel
air con
alarm
what else is there?
caroline? $1000+?
Don't take this the wrong way, just if you are going to pay someone to do all the work, either buy one finished. buy a finished roller, buy a better coupe to start on. maybe do a tafe course at night, and take the car as the class project?
I figure if I buy the service manual, a few tools etc and spend 2 days to service my car, it cost the same as if I took it somewhere, I know it was done, and I still have the tools for next service, at which time I buy say a trolley jack and stands.
before you know it you have a good set of tools.
How long will it take you to remove the paint, how long will it take to save $3500?
forget about paying someone to repair anything that bolts on if you can buy a good one for less. at that price I would find a body already done, repaired!
a good door shell is way cheaper than repairing yours, unless you do it.
4 door front panels fit just fine, buy one of those to practice welding on.
tafe has courses in that to. how long to save $5000, probably less than the time to buy a mig welder and learn.
I would hate to pay him $3500, then find the panel beating is way more than $5000
did you get a quote on dipping the car?
maybe work on this car while you save up to buy one already finished, at least you will know what to look for!
the car you bought is cheap, it is worth more in parts than what you payed.
as for the damaged rail, get a quote on repair.
just remember you have a sunbird, maybe a 5ltr ss would be worth paying people good money!
5 mates with a couple of cases of beer and a dozen pizzas could make a car like yours free of paint in a w/end. well the outside!
have you done a security check on the car before you spend money on it?
just my opinion.
#60
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 01:15 AM
^ and fluffy dice for rear view mirror.
rough calcs add up to $22 000 for a V6 sunny. wow.
rough calcs add up to $22 000 for a V6 sunny. wow.
Edited by ALX76, 30 July 2006 - 01:16 AM.
#61
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 09:39 AM
Yea thats what im looking at now because i know i will get my money back if i just sell the hatch as a rolling shell probably get more. Thats why im not rushing into it at all. We wanted to see ifd the car was worth doing which i believe it still is. But your definatly right in looking out for a better car.
Well we still have to talk to the panel beater that the blaster believes we should go to, and i have another one that does alot of work from his home.
I have done a secruity check, i rang REVS and they said the car had nothing on it but as it is on the records as being registered as it hasn't been in the last 5 years they couldn't give me any extra details. But yea the car has never been stolen/written off.
The body number near the carbon filter matches the number on the tags.
IS there anything else to check???
He said the caroline would be around $200.
The engine and car i would be able to make a fair amount back as parts for those are still fetching goood prices
Our budget was definately blown out, with what he found but my dad and I want to do the whole thing right the first time so 5 years down the track im not noticing bubbles and the paint lifting. Now the thing is i don't know how long im gunna keep the car but with the ecotec i see no reason why i would want to sell it within 10years.
Whats the difference between the Sl and Sunbird because when i did the check it says it was an SL/SUnbird and the Canberra torana club's SL's match mine numbers.
ryan
Well we still have to talk to the panel beater that the blaster believes we should go to, and i have another one that does alot of work from his home.
I have done a secruity check, i rang REVS and they said the car had nothing on it but as it is on the records as being registered as it hasn't been in the last 5 years they couldn't give me any extra details. But yea the car has never been stolen/written off.
The body number near the carbon filter matches the number on the tags.
IS there anything else to check???
He said the caroline would be around $200.
The engine and car i would be able to make a fair amount back as parts for those are still fetching goood prices
Our budget was definately blown out, with what he found but my dad and I want to do the whole thing right the first time so 5 years down the track im not noticing bubbles and the paint lifting. Now the thing is i don't know how long im gunna keep the car but with the ecotec i see no reason why i would want to sell it within 10years.
Whats the difference between the Sl and Sunbird because when i did the check it says it was an SL/SUnbird and the Canberra torana club's SL's match mine numbers.
ryan
#62
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 03:43 PM
Ryan dont get put off by anything that we suggest its your money , I blew up the photos of your car and could see where the rust is , the front on it has been welded back on to the chassis rails , there are lots of places that they rust but the hardest to fix is the pillars as they are multiple panels in there and to fix properly is hard and also where the hatch mounts around hinges , just a few suggestions and i like what the rest said keep it as spares and buy a better one and sell off what you dont need , wish i had a son and one that liked toranas ! Damn , by the way got some photos of the nostalgic drags on today up here in NQ some nice toranas and a couple of good a9X/S , TREX
#63
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 08:39 PM
Yea totally understand Racy, We car gunna try and find another shell hopefully or if not to reduce the price of the repairs by heaps, is to get another shell that has been written off and cut the good bits from the rear end and hopefully hatch hinge area and fit and weld it to mine. But as he said it is worth doing but if you can find another one that is better you won't lose money on the shell so it probably the way to go.
We will have to see.
Are you going to post those photos, they would be great?
thanks ryan
We will have to see.
Are you going to post those photos, they would be great?
thanks ryan
#64
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 08:56 PM
I have A1 and Rory on it now , i am that old and cant remember how to do it even though i have been told how a few times , TREX
#65
_youngy_11_
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Posted 30 July 2006 - 09:43 PM
Yea that i saw those pics some nice cars there
#66
_Leakey_
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 08:28 PM
Hi Ryan, you're really gettin' in to it mate!
Awesome. Still a great buy buddy. You have the right attitude,
especially if you're doing the slow build. I have to dissagree
with a few comments made earlier, I dont think it will set you
back $20K!!! Also, I love the idea of a few mates over to strip
her down... woolies barby pack, slab (or two) paint stripper,
heat gun(s) etc. Would take it back pretty quick, and save you
a fair bit of dough. Must be some way of blasting it for closer
to a grand though. $3.5K sounds a little high, no matter how
good a bloke he is!!
Well, I'm still waitin' to get my baby. When I do, I need to register
it, then I'll come up the 'gong and see you.
Have you stopped smiling yet? LOL
- Leakey
Awesome. Still a great buy buddy. You have the right attitude,
especially if you're doing the slow build. I have to dissagree
with a few comments made earlier, I dont think it will set you
back $20K!!! Also, I love the idea of a few mates over to strip
her down... woolies barby pack, slab (or two) paint stripper,
heat gun(s) etc. Would take it back pretty quick, and save you
a fair bit of dough. Must be some way of blasting it for closer
to a grand though. $3.5K sounds a little high, no matter how
good a bloke he is!!
Well, I'm still waitin' to get my baby. When I do, I need to register
it, then I'll come up the 'gong and see you.
Have you stopped smiling yet? LOL
- Leakey
#67
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 08:29 PM
We might be able to swap a few spares.
I'll talk to you later when I get the car OK?
- Leakey
I'll talk to you later when I get the car OK?
- Leakey
Edited by Leakey, 31 July 2006 - 08:30 PM.
#68
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Posted 31 July 2006 - 08:57 PM
I got a quote to get a Kingswood Media Blasted and that quote was for $800 for no hanging panels or $1000 for the whole complete car thats outside inside and under neath and primed. This mob is on the NSW Central Coast but he did invite me up to have a look and see there work. You can't really go wrong with companies that have been around for years and years.
Josh
Josh
#69
_youngy_11_
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Posted 02 August 2006 - 05:25 PM
Yea 3.5k is was too much but he said that figure without looking at the car just too let us know the worst case scenario. My dad droped in to see him the other day and he said around the $2500 mark. But I am going to ask if i can do some work at his workshop when i have finished Hsc, and any money he pays be can come off the blast price. He has just got a new computer system set up and i was helping him quickly the other day as he is a newby to compters.
Hes happy to show me how to wld and grind properly. lol
Yea sounds good Leakey.
thanks ryan
Hes happy to show me how to wld and grind properly. lol
Yea sounds good Leakey.
thanks ryan
#70
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Posted 17 September 2006 - 09:18 PM
Hey,
After having 5 panel beaters come look at the black hatch and realising that repairs were going to be too much I went looking for another hatch. I had two that I was keen on but didn't get the first one which was probably better anyway. I broungt the other one its got a great body lol, No rust only little bit in battery tray and a bit of surface here and there.
Its a 1978 LX SL hatch
Its got a 253 with auto trans. Its set up to be run on gas, the seller recons.
Plently of came with the car like
New rubbers
New Carpet with underlay sound proofing.
All seats
4 mags
Full dash
Heaps of other stuff with alot of rare spares.
Didn't have a diff as the diff was stuffed and he took it out and chucked it as he was going to get a one tonner diff cut down.
Im going to take the engine and box out of the new hatch and fit it to the black one and then sort through all the parts and anything i don't need ill sell with the black hatch with the 253 in it.
Converting the new one with a 3.8ltr Ecotec commowhore engine with all commowhore running gear(Borg warner diff )
So im on the look out for a T-Boned commo or ute.
We had made up some brackets to attach to the rear chassi rails that worked for a bit but then broke
.
So me my dad the seller and 2 of his mates ended up just lifting the back of the car onto the trailer meter by meter. Bloody hard work. And then sat it on 2 of the mags.
Its is painted in a blue metallic just a home job.
We are gunna paint it a metallic yellow with black outs and black bonnet.
Whats the name of the holden yellow(Monaro yellow)
Brothers in CRIME:
253: Could someone explain what the thing on the right is??
Dad recons its a Hot water atomiser??
Thing ontop of carby
Thanks RYAN
After having 5 panel beaters come look at the black hatch and realising that repairs were going to be too much I went looking for another hatch. I had two that I was keen on but didn't get the first one which was probably better anyway. I broungt the other one its got a great body lol, No rust only little bit in battery tray and a bit of surface here and there.
Its a 1978 LX SL hatch
Its got a 253 with auto trans. Its set up to be run on gas, the seller recons.
Plently of came with the car like
New rubbers
New Carpet with underlay sound proofing.
All seats
4 mags
Full dash
Heaps of other stuff with alot of rare spares.
Didn't have a diff as the diff was stuffed and he took it out and chucked it as he was going to get a one tonner diff cut down.
Im going to take the engine and box out of the new hatch and fit it to the black one and then sort through all the parts and anything i don't need ill sell with the black hatch with the 253 in it.
Converting the new one with a 3.8ltr Ecotec commowhore engine with all commowhore running gear(Borg warner diff
)So im on the look out for a T-Boned commo or ute.
We had made up some brackets to attach to the rear chassi rails that worked for a bit but then broke
.So me my dad the seller and 2 of his mates ended up just lifting the back of the car onto the trailer meter by meter. Bloody hard work. And then sat it on 2 of the mags.
Its is painted in a blue metallic just a home job.
We are gunna paint it a metallic yellow with black outs and black bonnet.
Whats the name of the holden yellow(Monaro yellow)
Brothers in CRIME:
253: Could someone explain what the thing on the right is??
Dad recons its a Hot water atomiser??
Thing ontop of carby
Thanks RYAN
#71
MRLXSS
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 01:10 AM
Very Nice!!!
Can i ask how much you paid?
What mags came with it?
It looks like a very good project starter! Top stuff and fantastic find!!
Can i ask how much you paid?
What mags came with it?
It looks like a very good project starter! Top stuff and fantastic find!!
#72
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 01:32 AM
its the remains of a gas system. The part on the air cleaner is the gas carb/mixer plate.253: Could someone explain what the thing on the right is??
Dad recons its a Hot water atomiser??
cheers julian
#73
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 07:24 AM
Well done on the purchase Ryan.
Great to see you decided on a better base car.
Nice find on the blue one, looks heaps better nic,and a good buy buy the sound of it.
Looks a bit like my dads garage 17 years ago. two cars in parts both mine and his parked outside. hehe.
Good luck with it.
Mick
Great to see you decided on a better base car.
Nice find on the blue one, looks heaps better nic,and a good buy buy the sound of it.
Looks a bit like my dads garage 17 years ago. two cars in parts both mine and his parked outside. hehe.
Good luck with it.
Mick
#74
Heath
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 10:38 AM
Awesome, I'm very jealous of you. Lose the foglights and whack some silver light surrounds in there and it'll come up a treat. You don't need to paint it 
#75
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 10:48 AM
Nice buy there mate... whats up with the weird bars welded off the side of the body for the gas? is that legal?
Keeping the other hatch for parts?
Keeping the other hatch for parts?
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