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350 sbc small block chev ignition timing - one man


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#1 _FERGnz_

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 12:26 PM

i need a bit of help.

 

i have had it running before. now i finally got back to it i cant get it started!!

 

i have cranked the engine around to be at the 10 degree before mark with vacuum removed from the dizzy.

 

done my best to line up the #1 terminal to the rotor.

 

when i turn the key no fire!

 

sometimes when i take the dizzy cap off it has turned 180degrees ahhhh and yes i have bolted it down

 

i need tips for initial timing. tips for going it alone too please



#2 _FERGnz_

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 12:33 PM

also to add.

 

msd dizzy vac advance. 350 chev



#3 V-SLR5000-P

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:22 PM

You need to be sure your on the compression stroke for number 1. Easiest thing if you are unsure is to take the rocker cover off and watch the valves; the inlet should have opened and be closing as you rotate towards TDC. You dont need the vacuum line disconnected its doing nothing without the engine running. Set the enine to 10 degrees before TDC as you have done. When you insert the dizzy you should turn the rotor back (anti clockwise) from number one terminal as it will rotate forward as the dissy engages the cam drive. Make sure the dissy also engages the oil pump drive and seats fully down.  It doesn't really matter which terminal the rotor is pointing to when your all set up, the terminal that the rotor is pointing to becomes number 1, then the leads sound be installed in the firing order 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2.

There are some good explanations on google if you are still unclear.

 

It doesn't matter how many times l do this, l always breathe a little sigh of relief when they fire up!


Edited by V-SLR5000-P, 31 March 2013 - 04:26 PM.


#4 Struggler

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 04:36 PM

The reason you think it is 180° out is because the crank rotates twice for every rotation of the rotor button. The engine is firing No.6 at TDC one full rotation after it fires No.1.

 

If it was running fine before then just bump the dizzy a little anti-clockwise. If you go too far the engine will struggle to turn on the starter, just back it up a bit (clockwise) and you should be able to fire it up.

 

See how this goes for you.



#5 Bernie

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 05:15 PM

Initial finding of TDC compression .Remove plug #1 rotate engine in correct direction with spanner till you feel pressure building on your  finger over  #1spark plug hole .Then rotate engine to tdc .Use screw driver or peice of rod to sit on top of piston as you bar it over .Once the wire or rod starts going down you have passed tdc compression stroke .Go back about 5 cms then bring it forward to the high spot again .Check your Harmonic balancer marks .It should show TDC.Then install dizzy with the rotor facing just before #1 lead .Leave it loose with the cap on and ignition on and the #1 ignition lead about 5 mm away from an earth point.Rotate dizzy back and forth you should hear or see the spark jump across the gap from the lead to earth .That will give you TDC spark .Back the dizzy off a fraction .This will then give you spark close to where you need it .Then once it is all back together and you have fuel etc .Crank it up and adjust the spark as needed .

Cheers

Bernie



#6 _FERGnz_

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Posted 31 March 2013 - 05:29 PM

i have done the basic stuff. i even had a spark plug out and had it on top of the block to see the spark go, for peace of mind.

 

i have fuel thats for sure.

 

got it set at 10 btdc with vac disconnected. but no fire! just turns over its killing me



#7 rexy

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Posted 01 April 2013 - 08:30 AM

Leads on in correct order? Turned it around 180deg just to be sure?
Nothing at all, not even a half cough?

#8 _the gts_

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Posted 04 April 2013 - 07:18 AM

My 383 need an absolute bucket full of fuel to start the first time but after that its fine. It always has me worried there is something wrong.

Its not the carb filling up either, I dont even try to start it until the sight glasses are full in the carb


Edited by the gts, 04 April 2013 - 07:18 AM.


#9 _FERGnz_

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 10:33 AM

is this correct????????????? 350 chev sbc 70'

 

TIMING SPECIFICATION

8 DEGREES
BEFORE TOP DEAD CENTER
*SET AT WARM IDLE SPEED (500 RPM) *DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM HOSE DISCONNECTED & PLUGGED
*ALL ACCESSORIES OFF *TRANSMISSION IN DRIVE (PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED)



#10 _434LX_

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Posted 21 April 2013 - 12:41 PM

6 to 10 degrees static timing should be fine to start it.

Do you have spark at all ?



#11 _FERGnz_

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Posted 22 April 2013 - 05:18 PM

ok another starter in and it starts ok.

 

got it at about 10 degrees. but seems to run away on me. choke??

 

what should my idel be set at? 800rpm????

 

then run it to 3000rpm and should be 30degrees or something a???

 

need more info. but google is giving me differnt answers every time.



#12 _Horse088_

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 03:40 PM

Hi Ferg,

 

I have just installed msd pro billet with 6al2 and had major probs getting it going

 

Figured out the battery didnt have enough charge to get it going.

 

Volts was 12.45 and cranking volts were around 5.   whch wasnt enough. charged battery and it started.

 

Your total timing should be 34 degress, so 10 degrees from timing and 24 from mech advance

 

some engines vary slightly depending on the work thats had on them, but you can also listen for that 'sweet sound' which if youve been around v8s a bit youl know that sound.

 

cheers jase



#13 _Horse088_

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 03:45 PM

ok another starter in and it starts ok.

 

got it at about 10 degrees. but seems to run away on me. choke??

 

what should my idel be set at? 800rpm????

 

then run it to 3000rpm and should be 30degrees or something a???

 

need more info. but google is giving me differnt answers every time.

What carby you got on it? and is your battery fully charged?



#14 _FERGnz_

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 03:59 PM

just a quadrajet 4 barrel carb

 

got it started now. started it on 10 degrees

 

i have a HEI msd dizzy with vac advance.

 

so should be 10 degrees at 800rpm?????? with vac disconnected?

 

and then what????

 

 

i have it started but just doesnt seem right.

 

im just frustrated. but thanks for the feed back!! :-)



#15 _434LX_

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Posted 28 April 2013 - 04:44 PM

1) Check for vacuum leaks first so your not chasing your tail.

2) With vac advance disconnected and dizzy clamp loose, bring rpm up to about 3500 rpm.

3) Using a timing light (easier with a mate) rotate dizzy to get get your desired total timing. As Jason said, 34 degrees is about right, depending on engine specs. (may be lower or higher)

4) Allow rpm to drop to idle and note the timing. If it has not dropped enough, you need to re curve your dizzy. Re-connect vac advance

5) Stop and restart the engine taking note of any kickback or difficulty starting (you will have to retry this again when cold)

6) Is your carb base idle set correctly using a vacuum guage ?

 

Most people forget that you set total timing first on carbed engines and then make sure it allows enough base at idle.

The rate that your timing goes from base to total timing is your curve. Vacuum advance helps in part throttle driving. A lot of people just disconnect it.



#16 _Horse088_

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Posted 29 April 2013 - 06:30 AM

To check for vacuum leaks, start motor and spray an aerosol like deoderant around base of carb and around carb itself, also around intake manifold.

 

Because the aerosol is less flammable than petrol, if there is a vacuum leak it will suck it in and you will notice the revs drop on the motor.

 

Should there be a leak this will affect getting the timing correct.

 

I trust youve set the idle mixture correctly?

 

Hows the exhaust? A sbc should not be dual exhasts. What i mean is that each bank should not go straight out the back, each side should join eachother before being split into two pipes. not sure if i worded that correctly.(its something to do with back pressure)

 

800rpm is good, 10degrees it about right with vac disconnected (as long as theres no leak)



#17 _FERGnz_

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 06:16 PM

ok back to this. had lots of drama with moving house and other SH#T.

 

started her up after a long time sitting. and she started!

 

very ruff.

 

but with 10 degrees and vac disconnected. runs ok.

 

soon as i put vac the dissy it cant start.

 

ill be testing for vacume leaks with some contact cleaner. hopefully find the issue.

 

can the brake booster be leaking? swear i can here air moving from there when i turn off the engine.



#18 _Horse088_

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Posted 18 September 2013 - 07:47 PM

Thinking you might not need vacumn, i dont run vacumn on mine, try blocking off the vacumn all together,

 

it is not always nessery to have vacumn






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