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LC GTR - FATHER AND SON GROUND UP RESTORATION

Started by _gorto_ , Apr 12 2013 09:27 PM

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#501 looznugtr

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 05:19 PM

I dont see why you would need a forged crank unless you need to rev it up to and over 8K.

My old turbo 202 held together 350hp with very basic parts.

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#502 _judgelj_

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 06:18 PM

Probably to keep it as indestructible as possible. Then again if you got the cash why not.

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#503 _gorto_

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:32 PM

I got a over the phone call costing on a " billet crank" I'm not going to say how much it was from crankshaft rebuilders. but your motor is going to be an expensive bit of kit.

WTF are you going to do with 300 hp at the treads ?

We can get the crank at cost price, still not cheap, but for the extra re-assurance that there will not be a catastrophic failure resulting in damage AT LEAST 5 times the price of the forged crank, it seems like a no-brainer really.

Have fun.

sorry don't get me wrong ryan with the motor build, I'm interested in the rod and piston combo to go on the crank. is it a stroked crank ?

If you are going to the expense of making a new billet crank then stroking it a little will create a better combo. I'm no engine builder but have been investigating options and one of the options is listed below which is a " off the shelf " standard combo.

Crankshaft re builders have a stroking kit you get;

cast crank - obviously with there treatment to NC spec

pistons with valve relief in top

rings and rods - not sure if they are forged or cast yet.

balancing of all of the above

g

Will be very slightly stroked, nothing to get excited about. Strokers (eg. ford crank, 220ish cubes) just simply do not last at 7500+ rpm.

Engine builder is definitely looking after us with the purchase of the crank (he is very highly regarded in circuit racing and has good contacts) and will be supplying it to us at cost price to him, simply because he wants the engine to last, and not have to check it every season.

I dont see why you would need a forged crank unless you need to rev it up to and over 8K.

My old turbo 202 held together 350hp with very basic parts.

Engine will turn to 7500+k. How long was this engine together for/how many k's did it do?

I dont doubt that a standard crank will last, but not without caution. I want to be able to hop in the car, smash 3 gears to the corner at 8000rpm without having to worry if today is the day the crank will fly to pieces and smash through my forged internals and custom billet caps and girdle.

Probably to keep it as indestructible as possible.

This is true.

Edited by gorto, 02 April 2014 - 08:43 PM.

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#504 N/A-PWR

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 10:39 PM

Hey Ryan,

I have used 200,000km short motors, put my Race Head on and Cam in, and did 7500rpm all day every day, till the big ends go after 2000 kms, just so you know. Dave I

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#505 S pack

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 10:55 PM

I want to be able to hop in the car, smash 3 gears to the corner at 8000rpm

You are referring to a race track aren't you?

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#506 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 11:53 PM

Either that or he has a very long driveway & nobody else as witness......

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#507 N/A-PWR

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 12:19 AM

we need a Huge Cam, and a Flow Master Head to get 8000rpm or more hey

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#508 Ice

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 12:21 AM

we need a Huge Cam, and a Flow Master Head to get 8000rpm or more hey

And a great set of triples

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#509 _judgelj_

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 07:30 AM

Yeah i hit 4k rpm all day no worries!!

Crazy stuff, i know.

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#510 _gorto_

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 07:53 AM

You are referring to a race track aren't you?

yes, local hillclimb track, 500 metres from my house.

we need a Huge Cam, and a Flow Master Head to get 8000rpm or more hey

cam will be a custom grind, 2 piece, nodgeline gear, 700 thou - 730 thou, haven't decided yet.

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#511 _gorto_

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 07:57 AM

Engine builder told me a fellow by the name of craig has one of the toughest N/A engines in Australia. We are hoping to make simlar power. I believe he is currently doing a bit of balancing work for him too.

Here is a link to the engine on the dyno.

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#512 greens nice

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 06:18 PM

I am intrigued by this 'nodgeline' gear, curious as to how the cam could be made in 2 piece's?

'.730 lift' i hope that is not a flat tappet?

cheers

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#513 Stinga

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 06:34 PM

I am intrigued by this 'nodgeline' gear, curious as to how the cam could be made in 2 piece's?

'.730 lift' i hope that is not a flat tappet?

cheers

nodular iron????

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#514 gtrboyy

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 09:21 PM

Sounds way overkill for a crank.

Had very basic 202 bottom ends live long lives smashing 7500rpm,solid cam,triple webbers,ported head yada yada

Keeping the balancer on or flywheel from coming loose is big issue.Easier to stay under 7500rpm than try to fix,more likely to crack/break engine block.

Oiling system sorted out helps..most guys got that covered

Once you sort those out still be limited by engine block.

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#515 _gorto_

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 10:11 PM

I am intrigued by this 'nodgeline' gear, curious as to how the cam could be made in 2 piece's?

'.730 lift' i hope that is not a flat tappet?

cheers

Honestly, I have no idea. It is what he uses in his $150000 race boat engines, that's all I know. I think the nodular iron (not sure how its spelt) has something to do with the gears wearing out or something. Maybe im talking out of my ass and it has nothing to do with the cam, I just remember him saying it and i thought it was the cam.

Yes, roller cam.

Sounds way overkill for a crank.

Had very basic 202 bottom ends live long lives smashing 7500rpm,solid cam,triple webbers,ported head yada yada

Keeping the balancer on or flywheel from coming loose is big issue.Easier to stay under 7500rpm than try to fix,more likely to crack/break engine block.

Oiling system sorted out helps..most guys got that covered

Once you sort those out still be limited by engine block.

He said if we run a standard crank, he would need to crack test it, and possibly replace every 2 years.

Flywheel is drilled, dowelled, heated and interference fitted. Not sure what he does with the balancer, he did mention something about it, but I cannot remember. External feeds to 1 and 6 for oil. Billet main caps and billet girdle that indexes the main caps will help the block from trying to open up like a banana.

Edited by gorto, 03 April 2014 - 10:13 PM.

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#516 N/A-PWR

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 10:29 PM

and the Video of the 202 Dyno sounds very strong Ryan,

Thank's for showing us. Dave I

Your Motor will be Tough

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#517 _Macka_

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 06:02 PM

Ryan I am very envious. That motor sound tough and I would love to have it sitting in my LC GTR. Sounds like your engine builder knows what he is doing.

Cheers Macka

Edited by Macka, 04 April 2014 - 06:02 PM.

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#518 _gorto_

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Posted 04 April 2014 - 09:30 PM

and the Video of the 202 Dyno sounds very strong Ryan,

Thank's for showing us. Dave I

Your Motor will be Tough

sure does, sounds very smooth too. Maybe because it is under load.

Ryan I am very envious. That motor sound tough and I would love to have it sitting in my LC GTR. Sounds like your engine builder knows what he is doing.

Cheers Macka

Thanks

Okay so asked dad about the cam, he said that the majority of the cam is a solid bit of billet and the the end where the gears drive the dizzy is nodular iron.

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#519 S pack

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 09:19 AM

Okay so asked dad about the cam, he said that the majority of the cam is a solid bit of billet and the the end where the gears drive the dizzy is nodular iron.

So, the front half of the camshaft (up to but not including the dizzy/oil pump drive gear) is billet steel and the rear half (incorporating the dizzy/oil pump drive gear) is nodular iron???

I'm confused! We are talking Holden red/blue/black 6cyl engines aren't we?

Edited by S pack, 05 April 2014 - 09:19 AM.

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#520 _judgelj_

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 11:39 AM

Ryan I am very envious. That motor sound tough and I would love to have it sitting in my LC GTR. Sounds like your engine builder knows what he is doing.

Cheers Macka

Damo never too late get one into your GTR!!

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#521 _gorto_

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 12:27 PM

So, the front half of the camshaft (up to but not including the dizzy/oil pump drive gear) is billet steel and the rear half (incorporating the dizzy/oil pump drive gear) is nodular iron???

I'm confused! We are talking Holden red/blue/black 6cyl engines aren't we?

yes, i believe so. This is the cam he does with the majority of his engines and i think that is what he is doing with mine seeming it is a custom cam anyway. Can check with him next time we go for a visit, hopefully within the next month or so and get back to you

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#522 shanegtr

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Posted 10 April 2014 - 02:24 AM

Looking the goods mate! Love the wheels, 15's are perfect on LC/J's

Colour looks nuts in the sun too!

I would have to agree on the rim size - any bigger and they just look to big and out of proportion.

I've just flicked through this entire thread and I must say, its looking real good - and from the sounds of that engine is going to go real good too.

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#523 _gorto_

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Posted 10 April 2014 - 05:04 PM

I would have to agree on the rim size - any bigger and they just look to big and out of proportion.

I've just flicked through this entire thread and I must say, its looking real good - and from the sounds of that engine is going to go real good too.

They are 16's, but yes, they do look good. I personally wouldnt want to go any bigger than 16's.

Thanks