29 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Nice, I like how you started with fuel and spark - for some reason people tend to forget that its still an internal combustion engine just because it has electronic injection!

[SmacT]

Thanks for this - very handy. I have the engine check light from the donor commodore, but not sure where to wire it in given I have modified the harness. Any idea? That blue book looks handy...

[UCgazman]

The CEL gets power from 12v ign+ and earths through the Brown/White wire that goes to the ALDL diagnostic plug...

 

*edit* thats VN VP, not sure if the later models are different coloured wires

Edited by UCgazman, 18 June 2013 - 12:14 AM.

[SmacT]

Champion, thanks. In she goes tomoz, probably into the empty choke hole. :-)
And yes, mine is from a VN.

Edited by SmacT, 18 June 2013 - 11:12 PM.

[Redslur]

I just love injected 304's in torry's.  Nicely done...

[Marks LXTorana]

Hoping someone might be able to help; I have removed the standard inlet manifold and replaced it with the Edelbrock dual plane manifold and Aeroflow throttle body. There isnt a suitable place to mount the MAT sensor so i assume I need to drill and tap M14x1.5 into the manifold (the original was close to the entry into the head)?

 

Also I thought I would try starting it which was fine after priming the fuel rail, although with no throttle the engine raced like it had full throttle so I had to shut it off straight away. Do I need to let the TPS and IAC sensors re-learn somehow? Most posts seem to be the opposite - engine wont idle!

[76lxhatch]

Yes its meant to be close to the head port as its trying to determine the charge temp - you can install it further away but may require more detailed alterations to the tune to suit.

This is what I did, almost hidden down by the dizzy. Just check the manifold has enough thickness in the runners first


The IAC should close fully when you switch the key on, then retract to its specified number of steps. Max steps may need altering in the tune for a different throttle body though, some have a longer distance to cover.

TPS should be straight forward as long as its GM style, just make sure it hits 0 and 100 (approximately) when closed and open.

[Bigfella237]

Another stupid technicality...

 

If you use a complete VN-onward motor then the installation has to comply with the emission controls associated with that engine (including catalytic convertors).

 

However if you use a period block, say an original Torana engine block, and just fit the VN-onward heads/cam/etc., it only needs to comply with the original Torana emission controls (meaning no cats).

 

The stupid part is, there is essentially no difference in the blocks, at least none that affect emissions anyway.

[yel327]

Them's the rules though! Lucky 1974-6 cast dates look just like 1994-6......

[myss427]

Also, dual plane manifolds do not work well with injection, the different length runners cause havoc with the fuel calibrations and sensors. Single planes work much better.

[76lxhatch]

^ That would apply with throttle body injection but not if it has port injection (air-only throttle body), could be either from the description above I guess

[Marks LXTorana]

Yes its meant to be close to the head port as its trying to determine the charge temp - you can install it further away but may require more detailed alterations to the tune to suit.

This is what I did, almost hidden down by the dizzy. Just check the manifold has enough thickness in the runners first


The IAC should close fully when you switch the key on, then retract to its specified number of steps. Max steps may need altering in the tune for a different throttle body though, some have a longer distance to cover.

TPS should be straight forward as long as its GM style, just make sure it hits 0 and 100 (approximately) when closed and open.

​Thanks for the replies, I was hoping I might see an example of where to tap the manifold! Yes the car is running cats as part of the set up too.

 

I am not sure if the wiring for the IAC has somehow become corrupted as I have turned the ignition on and it doesn't move (waited around 15 seconds). I then put my original IAC back on and tried it, same thing. I noticed the original IAC is extended much further but neither one moves when ignition is turned on. I therefore taped over the air bleed hole for the IAC and made sure the butterflies were fully closed and although the engine kicks over immediately, it still wants to race like it has full throttle.

 

I plugged the original TPS back in (I notice it rotates in the opposite direction so I can't fit it to the throttle body) and left it sitting next to the throttle body but again, the engine is racing. I cannot leave the ignition on at all as it will over-rev the engine so I have to shut it off immediately each time.

 

I am thinking it might be due to air leaks. I have used the available throttle body ports for brake booster, fuel rail solenoid, and the little rectangular solenoid screwed into the firewall (what is that!!) although I am using the old manifold gaskets (they looked in good condition). I have new gaskets but as soon as I know I have it running OK, the whole engine is coming out for a mini rebuild due to rear main seal leaking.

 

My biggest problem was pulling the wiring loom apart so I could re-route the wiring for the new manifold and hide as much as possible. I think I should have done the manifold first, confirmed it runs fine, THEN start on the re-wiring...

Edited by Marks LXTorana, 14 February 2017 - 11:08 AM.

[Bigfella237]

​~ and the little rectangular solenoid screwed into the firewall (what is that!!) ~

 

If you're talking about one of these...

 

 

...it's a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor.

[myss427]

^ That would apply with throttle body injection but not if it has port injection (air-only throttle body), could be either from the description above I guess

No you get different length paths for the air, go on some of the injection forums like FAST, Edelbrock, Holley etc, they have lots of issues with dual plane manifolds and throttle bodies, and injectors in the manifold don't seem to make any difference.

[Marks LXTorana]

Great post 434
I've just put 304 from a vt in my hatch yesterday
Having issues with my conversion loom
The kit I got comes from micks4wd even tho it has v6conversions all over it
Unfortunately the instructions I have are only the micks4wd ones and are not straight forward at all
I have a 6 wire plug on the torana and conversion loom has 9 wires

Any one that could lend some advise or a copy of the v6conversions instructions would be fantastic

​The only advice I can offer is to get yourself a good Holden workshop manual with the detailed ECM wiring diagrams. I bought my car already set up and was too scared to touch anything but after reviewing the engine harness circuits I realised it was all fairly straight forward. VN loom might be different as the injectors are all hooked into a single circuit and fire together. Not sure about the conversion loom, my original Torana loom was hooked into the VN wiring very randomly where required....

[Antman]

looking at a VT 304 auto for my conversion. I would like to stay with a manual. Someone told me I would need to get the computer remapped from the auto to the manual? Is this correct and is it a big hassle?

[yel327]

It is a Memcal in these so can be done. You have to get the Memcal modded anyway to remove the VATS anti-theft stuff and the ppk constant changed to suit your diff ratio and tyre size. VT and newer (VSIII) engine is the hardest for a conversion but still easy compared to an LS.

It also might be worth getting the ECU modified with an EEPROM or NVram rather than an EPROM in the Memcal, and a comms port added. This way you can get a basic tune done so it runs and get it dynoed properly when all finished.

Edited by yel327, 17 February 2020 - 04:57 AM.

[Antman]

Progressing with things over here. Engine in progress of rebuild, found a 5 speed, sourcing bits and pieces and shopping list growing daily.   Funny that there seems to be a direct correlation between parts found/bought and shopping list growing rather than shrinking?? 

 

Thought it would be ok to add to this thread for future info?

 

Anyway trying to find someone (looking for recommendations) in WA to have Memcal modded as per Yel327 suggestion (remove vats/anti theft) with EEPROM or NVram & comms port.

 

 

Any suggestions will be helpful.

Cheers

Antman

Edited by Antman, 02 July 2020 - 10:18 PM.

[yel327]

Ask here
http://www.kalmaker.com.au/

[VZ1_60]

have a look at pcmhacking.net, plenty of info there

 

https://pcmhacking.net/forums

 

cheers

Edited by VZ1_60, 03 July 2020 - 10:07 AM.

[bat 53]

bill lee