699 replies to this topic

[Potta]

Pretty sure that's how they are supposed to be.

 

I'll check, but I hope you guys are wrong.

[S pack]

Doesn't really matter which way the bolts are installed but looks neater with only the bolt heads visible and yeah as DJ said, get some self locking nuts.

[N/A-PWR]

I'm with DJ,

 

as you can imagine, steel lock nuts have been around for a century.

 

There are a few types of steel lock nuts available as crimped and castellated:-

 

http://www.homeprofa...&product_id=547

 

http://www.globalspe...eners/lock_nuts

 

http://www.unitedfas...nloch-nuts-g304

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nylock lock nuts have a nylon ring crimped into the nut, and fail when heated/ melted.

 

The LC / LJ TORANA suspension upgrade had steel lock nuts,

 

as a replacement to the normal nut on the same TOP CONTROL ARM PIVOT connection:-

 

http://www.ebay.com....4-/220831915594

 

http://www.ebay.com....=item4aabc94286

 

 

 

Yeah Craig,

 

so while you are there changing them around the other way,

 

put some steel lock nuts on Mate. 

Edited by NA-PWR, 09 February 2015 - 05:08 PM.

[S pack]

No.

Mehanical lock nuts or conelocks have machine made distortions on one end which makes the thread bind.

I think GM called them oval head nuts, or something like that.

[N/A-PWR]

Hello Wayno,

 

spring washers were spring washers once,

 

they had spring in them from a steel that had more carbon when hardened.

 

 

Now, spring washers spread out from a nut being tightened to the correct torque setting required for a said thread size.

 

 

So when selecting a spring washer in future,

 

make sure it is not a zinc, stainless, or a cheap steel type. 

That's what I thought spring washers were for

[N/A-PWR]

also, real spring washers dig in when undoing them,

 

and are harder to break the contact to undo the nut.

 

            undo >>>>>>

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<<<   ||||||||||||        Spring Washer

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                           ||||||||||  >>> Digs in here

 

IMO, real spring washers are good too,

 

but a Mechanical Steel Lock Nut is fail Safe.

Edited by NA-PWR, 09 February 2015 - 09:28 PM.

[Potta]

They are torqued to correct specs so they're staying where they are.

I'll get some lock nuts to put on top, double lock.

I don't have time to swap them around to make it look prettier.

[Potta]

Yeah they came with the ball joints, have spring washers and are torqued so hoping they will be ok

I will get some locknuts though, sounds like a good idea.

[IMORAL]

Apart from looking pretty we always install bolts facing down so if the nut did come loose the bolt still stays in the hole. That being said a bolt done to the correct tension should never come in done in a perfect world.

Locite is another option.

[S pack]

I had some regular nuts like you do, piss poor nuts they were, they were tweaked to speck, but they became loose and flogged out my arm!!!

 

Cheers. 

Excessive masturbating by the sounds of it DJ

[N/A-PWR]

We need to educate these new part suppliers to supply the correct parts for the job hey.

 

On one hand, the standard Ball Joint is riveted for a reason hey.

 

and on the other, supplied a nut and bolt. 

 

 

We need a better solution to this.

[Potta]

Apart from looking pretty we always install bolts facing down so if the nut did come loose the bolt still stays in the hole. That being said a bolt done to the correct tension should never come in done in a perfect world.
Locite is another option.

  

I did the same thing, ground off rivets, fitted the supplied bolts and nuts, torqued to correct speck, passenger side came loose and rattled around a bit and flogged out the holes, had to get a new UCA. 
 
I then drilled all the holes bigger, fitted the next size up bolts with lock nuts, and narry a problem. 
 
Cheers. 

Yeah ok, I see what you're saying guys, doing things how the book says isn't always the best way.

I got the other ball joint out, just gotta get the rivets out now.

Once that's done it's all putting stuff together so should be relatively quick I hope.

[warrenm]

Use some Loctite.

[Shiney005]

G,day Craig, this is the first time I have seen this thread and it has been a good read. With regards to the heavy steering and it not wanting to self centre, I bought an LC that was suffering the same symptoms and it turned out that the steering column had been replaced by one from a written off car (hit hard in the front I suspect) and it had collapsed.

Hopefully the repairs you have done to date will have fixed yours but it may give you another clue if you are still chasing answers.

Good luck with the next inspection. 

[Dave6179]

Weld it on!

[orangeLJ]

Yeah I tacked the balljoint plate to the arm in the racecar, nothing I can't grind off later, but peace of mind

[EunUCh]

Rivets are the way to go,they expand when peened to fill the hole/s properly (bit hard to do on car though),probably the best bolt system would be using a bolt with a bit of unthreaded shank that falls just shy of the hole but needs to be tapped in place,put nut on with no washer then give remaining one or two threads of exposed bolt a bit of a peen,,shouldn't fall off or walk around in the hole hopefully.

Edited by EunUCh, 10 February 2015 - 02:38 PM.