2118 replies to this topic

[IMORAL]

hi IMORAL, heath has been a great help to me with my build and we spoke about this exact topic. I was having a big problem with taking too much out and causing blow throughs. he told me his preferred method is to knock it down with a grinding disc then finish with a sanding disc.
 
thanks again heath for all the great advice, looking forward to seeing more progress. 

Makes sense and I have heard that too

[slar]

I just leave the weld there in its entirety and smother it in bog. 

 

I hope this wasnt your work Bomber haha.

Some one done that to my car.......wasnt impressed lol

 

[wot179]

You can remove only the weld if you know how to use a grinder properly and have patience.

You will always remove parent metal either side of the weld using a flapper wheel.

They are the wrong tool for the job.

[wot179]

Try one of these instead of a flapper.



A far superior finish can be had so long as you are patient and don't glaze the disc by letting it all get too hot to touch.

And you have to keep it FLAT and use it as you would a sanding block.

Im gunna have to do a video of how to grind welds properly one of these days.

[wot179]

Put a handle on your grinder for better control to keep the disc flat.

I find the hard plastic backing plate far better than the soft rubber ones because you can then use them

like a sanding block, only knocking off the high spots.

The rubber ones let the sanding disc flex a bit too much, and they develop a curved face, which in my experience prevents you from

getting things dead flat.

[wot179]

And very importantly, DONT LET THEM GET HOT or they quickly glaze up and stop cutting properly.

If the metal is too hot to touch you may as well toss the disc and get a fresh one.

Patience is the key.

Sorry for the thread steal, Heath.

I know Ive already told you all this.

[IMORAL]

You can remove only the weld if you know how to use a grinder properly and have patience.You will always remove parent metal either side of the weld using a flapper wheel.They are the wrong tool for the job.

So Craig would you use the grinder on its end so the rounded edge of the wheel so to speak is only on the weld until close and then finish with the hard backed sanding disk to avoid touching or removing to much of the parent metal then.

[wot179]

Yes.

[Covert]

Good advice wot, I'll have to source one of these contraptions as I also found the fap disc easily removed more material than what was desired.

[wot179]

Weld it correctly and you should have ample penetration for structural integrity.

[rodomo]

It's all about penetration...........................(said the barmaid to the bishop)

[Heath]

IMORAL I think everyone else has pretty much answered your question but basically you try and cut back the weld and touch the stuff around it as little as possible. I'm no pro at this shit haha I might have a few more hours than most in a welding helmet but that honestly doesn't help that much when you're fiddling with sheet metal.

I only have a urethane backed sanding hub for the grinder rather than that one that Craig posted a photo of, that's probably a Nylon which would be a lot more rigid. If I could find the rigid type I would buy one and use it, any advice?

 

Rust converted, thoroughly cleaned and two coats of KBS Black Top.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Are you changing the clutch setup now, or was there some rust you're fixing?

[Uncle Chop Chop]

That was a thought, but the TKO is for the 308, which I thought wasn't ready to go in yet?

[Heath]

It's not going back on the road with a 6 - I was thinking about it but I've decided against it.

Dash and plenum are going back together now... I'll set up the master cylinder with the dash in

[wot179]

[Elmo]

My dash was cut in the middle of the lower column attach area and about three inches in from the right hand side through the top. Thought we may have gotten away with just the bottom cut and after folding the panel on itself at the bottom to ease it into position, panelled it straight on the top where it would have distorted when fitted. I wasn't there to try the latter first, but the way it was done worked out well.

If you are going to use the LX wiring harness set up don't forget like I did, to plug weld in the harness brackets on the back of the plenum. I also removed the UC bonnet release as I wanted the full LX style interior 

[Heath]

hahahah Craig!

Elmo mate I'm struggling to find your build thread, could you shoot us a link? I had forgotten about the wiring harness brackets!

This is how I cut the dash so I didn't really have to touch the top of it. This is a cut & shut right at the end.

[turbo76lx]

Speed holes?

[myss427]

One of the special secret A9X lightweight racing dashes!