2118 replies to this topic

[UC308Hatch]

Surely must be time for an update Heath? I'm having withdrawals.....


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[Peter UC]

He's over in Japan at the moment

[Heath]

It's a fair request though... I think I'm due for an update

Just got back from this heavenly place over the weekend, but I've got a bit on my plate right now. Will see if I can sit down and write something up soonn.

[UC308Hatch]

Ha, looks like u had a ball


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[rodomo]

Tourist.

[Heath]

Cut some 3mm ally sheet to fill the clutch fork hole in my Dellows bellhousing:


And had my first real crack at ally welding:


More stuffing around with Heath stuff:



Was time to finish off my front end, which I'd bought MOOG balljoints and Whiteline urethane bushes for. How to frOck a little bench vice 101:



Turned up some ally 'female' bushes to retain the offset front end spacers firmly against the chassis rails when I mount the front end:



First batch of fresh zinc to go with the gloss KBS black front end components:


Finally piecing it together:


Had a nice big special nut on my floating hubs on the rear end that I needed to make a socket for:

Lasercut hex, some old exhaust tube, and random bits of scrap steel:



Gearset assembled, magnet placed in the bottom of housing, rear hat torqued up:


On and off a number of times with all four hubs hubs using the dial gauge...


Facing the solid crush tubes to exact length:


Rear hub assembly with a long breaker bar and my (now zinc plated) big arse socket:


Seasoned with some bracketry and pretty brake stuff:


Pulled out the silver powdercoated 'Whiteline' 24mm Front Bar with ugly ends:


Did some stripping and reshaping:


Marked out where I could make the K-Mac rear bar slider brackets look a little better finished:


Another batch back from the platers:


And some bits back from the powdercoaters:


One car's worth of swaybar kits completed with period K-Mac embossed pins and adjusters all round:

[rodomo]

Did I detect a "faux pas" in one of those pics?

[Heath]

Just checked if my fly was undone in the photos, seems to be okay... Can't figure it out, lol

[koalasprint]

Hi Heath. Looks like your making fast progress at the moment. No short cuts must be your moto? Out of curiosity, were the hub spacers exactly the same length as the opposite side?

 

Cheers, Steve.

[purrlx]

Heath, are you spacing the frontend forward or backwards

[Bigfella237]

Looks like forward to me, as intended... have the bolts not moved forward in what would be the mounting holes?

 

Finally piecing it together:

 

[Heath]

Yep, the front end is further forward than standard, although only a very small distance.

Steve, I just sent you a PM regarding the lower arms we were discussing. I didn't measure the crush tube finished lengths, but since the hubs were made with CNC machines, my parts should measure up left vs. right about as well as I can hold a tolerance.

Edited by Heath, 09 March 2018 - 08:46 AM.

[purrlx]

My bad, a quick look appeared to be moved backward, had read earlier in thread it was going forward.

[rodomo]

Did I detect a "faux pas" in one of those pics?

My humble apologies grasshopper...............or is that master?

[Heath]

I thought maybe I'd outgrown the description, master was probably a bit too far a stretch, but it has been revised now.

If anyone makes tube arms with the adapters from McDonald Bro's, make sure you use the Super Pro bushes as they actually have the right amount of interference (rather than Nolathane, Whiteline etc.)


Used a proper press for these ones:


Very pleased with that:


Also thought I'd spoil myself with a big ticket item for the car:


Turbo pattern 5.0L block, relieved and 4-bolt converted, COME 383 Stroker, COME Alloy 600 Series heads, COME 'Bracketmaster' Solid Flat Tappet (338deg @ .050"), Forgies, etc. Came with a few ancillaries which aren't needed (ignition, Commodore sump, four barrel manifold, etc.), and will still need a few touches to be just how I want it, but should be good.

Might even pull a little harder than the 202.

Edited by Heath, 11 March 2018 - 09:57 PM.

[micklx]

It's not too late to sell that 383 and go LS....

[Redslur]

Anything COME is good. I use it in my engines.  And I think that cam spec would have been 238 @ 50 :-0

 

Hope the block is grout filled. 

[SHEEL]

frOck yes

[axistr]

What no power rack on that shinny new K-frame Heath.

 

Is that cam spec right ? that seams a lot of duration @50" lift. even for a long stroke engine. 

Edited by axistr, 14 March 2018 - 01:32 PM.

[Heath]

Haha the duration was a typo, sorry. 238deg of duration > .050", lift is .338".

Bought some more bits to complement this motor today. Getting real poor.

[Heath]

Purchased a simple black clutch fluid reservoir designed for a motorbike from eBay, and modified the bracket to suit mounting on the firewall:

The hose will go straight inside the car, which I think is a far more elegant solution than the ones you see in common kits. Plus the black finished billet is the right kind of low-key I reckon:


Pulled my old spare nosecone out of storage. The excess material at the bottom has been cut off, along with the numberplate brackets, it'll all be covered by a spoiler anyway.

It had some rust around the edges, and the area where the standard numberplate attaches was all a bit messy.




Discovered that I don't need ID tags on this car because it has been re-posessed anyway. So instead of dummy tags, why not clean up the look?




Pulled some standard UC Torana rear bumper brackets out of storage, started swiss-cheesing them (quite a common trick I do is to weld on a previously holesawed out circle into a new location if I want a big hole roughly overlapping where there's a small hole already. This means that the centre drill can engage in something. You can see one tacked onto each below:


Made light work of them (I'll see myself out):

[rodomo]

If it didn't have an engine it would blow away in the wind.

[Toranamat69]

Always good to see your updates Heath.