2118 replies to this topic

[76lxhatch]

Nice tidy job on the steering column, looks good.

 

The only thing worth noting for others looking at this is that shortening the column brings the intermediate shaft slightly closer to the engine; its not much but for those with V8s and limited extractor clearance every last thou is important!

[Heath]

Cheers blokes. Carmelo, PM sent re: where the hell you've been!

 

Dropping the UCA pivot point instantly gives you more static camber which should be adjusted out, but once you are back to where you where, the lower pivot means you have more camber change upon bump. So when you wrench it into a corner with stiff springs that would otherwise provide less negative camber on the outside, it provides a fraction more, some calculations have been done by other forum members. The different Torana models came with different height UCA pivot point mounts. Offsetting them (front one up vs rear one down or vice versa) allows you to adjust dive in the front end too. But I left mine neutral.

[Heath]

Wheel alignment went as planned, with really good results. Recommend Edgar's Tyre Power (Notting Hill) to anyone in the Eastern Suburbs. Awesome blokes and the best equipment around.

 

Loaded it up that night and took it up into the Lerderderg Gorge with my girlfriend. The suspension works on the Torana a bit better than the Datto so it didn't mind the rough roads at all. Oh yeah didn't have a hatch hutch but I am a resourceful person lol.

[Stinga]

Looking good Heath, so the suspension works well and doesnt mind the rough...uhh roads hey??

[Heath]

The stance has definitely been improved, but will be improved a lot further in the future. I've gotta say I actually really don't mind the wheels all that much now that it tucks tyre. Also rolled the guards which made a big difference.

 

[76lxhatch]

Why so much negative camber and so little caster?

[Heath]

How much caster do most people run? That's significantly more than I had on the green car. I expected the goal to be a bit less camber but he seemed to think that was cool with what I use the car for.

[76lxhatch]

You're about at the absolute max caster possible for an LH or LX front end, but for a UC that's still within factory spec I believe. My opinion would be similar to yours on the negative camber - that's a bit much for road use and will wear out tyres and track into the ruts - I've used up to 1.5 degrees when there's no choice but with a nice straight front end that gives you options I'd keep it down to 1 degree. The great thing about the UC geometry is you can wind more caster in to make up for it without the side effects; mine is currently just over 5 degrees static caster, with only 1 degree negative camber.

[Heath]

Okay, well now that it is at a benchmark (symmetrical etc.) I can muck around with some more shims in the back later on to experiment with an increased caster angle. My suspicion is that 5 degrees might be a bit too much caster for a manual LH rack (you do have power steering right?). Food for thought anyway

[76lxhatch]

Yes 5 degrees is probably a bit much, although I've got 255 wide front tyres and I did run the (UC) manual steering that way for a bit - ok while moving but 3 point turns become annoying.

Depends on how it drives of course, but I would imagine if you could knock the camber back to -1 and add another degree of caster (total +3) instead then it would handle pretty nicely.

[LXCHEV]

Nice hatchback Heath - she looks the goods

[bryanw]

Looking good, height is much better looking, surprising the difference a little bit makes.

Are the wheels commodore pcd and offset? if so, what diff are you running? spacers?

I think the wheels suit it.

[MRLXSS]

Looking good mate, looking forward to seeing it over the next couple of months once car events start happening again (and I get off my arse and get there!)

[Heath]

bryanw yes mate it's Commodore PCD all round, wheels are aftermarket Commodore wheels with the positive offset and all of that - not something I am into but the setup does work quite well. I'll be selling all of that gear later on. Diff is a BW78 with Commodore rear discs but I keep forgetting to measure the length of it when I have it apart. I'm going to guess it's longer than an R31 diff.

 

Yeah it is a lovely looking car (for a UC) and the driving experience is getting significantly better with each little thing I'm doing. Just put a different gear knob on it and installed a fixed back driver's seat which made a mega difference, harness coming soon and also had a set of Koni reds arrive today which should help keeping it settled. But before I get too distracted I wanna get the diff sorted.

[Heath]

Keeping busy on this thing. Got around to painting the rear brake rotors to match the fronts:

 

Turned up some little crush tubes for the chassis rail so that I could mount a tow point on the chassis. Will put one on the front bumper bar iron later on too.

 

Installed a K-MAC 24mm Swaybar with polyurethane bushes:

 

Installed a composite fixed back racing seat onto standard Torana rails and a 4pt harness:

 

Set of off-the-shelf Koni Reds (adjustable), eBay $550 kit:

 

Loaded up with a swag in the back and in the morning I'm taking it away for a cruising weekend with my mates. Grouse

[a9x868]

very nice work heath
beautiful straight black hatch there mate
and great machining as well!
keep it up and enjoy!
cheers
davemc
p.s
love a hatch with four wheel discs

[bryanw]

Looking better all the time, did you measure the diff? what are the new shockers like?

[Heath]

Yep the O/A length of the diff (including rotors) is 1530mm. That is why the lame offset wheels actually sit very well in the guards.

 

Just got back from an amazing trip through some unbelievable roads. Bloody awesome