2110 replies to this topic

[orangeLJ]

I think you're being a little precious about the "shame" comment man.

I was implying that timing wise, if your purchase decision was further down the track, the new series would be a great option.

The packaging and functionality would have been a big bonus to what you're building

[ozyozyozy]

🤔 quite common not to use a map sensor on multiple throttles or even just normally on modified engines.
They tune around it using TPS and speed points and AFR’s.
They still sometimes have a map sensor but only used for atmospheric compensations.
Not a deal breaker if too complicated to fit one.

[Rockoz]

quite common not to use a map sensor on multiple throttles or even just normally on modified engines.
They tune around it using TPS and speed points and AFR’s.
They still sometimes have a map sensor but only used for atmospheric compensations.
Not a deal breaker if too complicated to fit one.

 Nice to know

Only just starting to look into ECU tuning

My project will be running an LS1 and Im putting a little cam into it.

Was thinking at one stage about running multiple throttle bodies, and may still do in the future.

But at this stage I am a long way off needing to modify the tune.

Lots of other things will need doing first.

Started looking at PCMHammer or hacker?

Memory fails me but its on a stored page anyway.

Thats the bonus of copious quantities of endone and its derivatives.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[axistr]

I would take a good look at the Holley EFI system. Very easy to fit, tune and add ons for future options. Straight out of the box my kit was close to spot on with only very minor tweeks. I can fully control fan, relays, knock sensors, water injection, A/C drop out at 3/4 throttle and the list of controllable items is very extensive. There are three tuning strategies, I am running speed density with a large can and don't have any idle issues. The Holley HP system can control traction control, electronic pedals and forced induction. And best of all, even a dummy like me can install it, tell it a bit of information and basically let it tune itself.

[Heath]

Cut a piece of 12mm ply to suit the false floor in the back.


And cut away at a length of stainless piano hinge until it fitted about right as well.


Waiting on one of Torana RP&A's replacement latches to arrive, so I can fit that, add a stay, and paint it.

[Cook]

Nice as always Heath.  Are you planning to keep that in one piece or split is somewhere and what are you planning to lift it with, or is that what you are waiting for?.  Only reason I ask is that I'm trying to decide which way to go.  Cheers Ron

Edited by Cook, 28 December 2019 - 01:55 PM.

[Heath]

Well mine is one piece because there'll be a sunroof and huge fuel tank filling the whole space anyway, so the extra folding panel would be useless.

If you had a more standard luggage area, I would enthusiastically suggest using the original split design. Great for dropping an eski in etc.

[SHEEL]

Heath, if you have clearance underneath, I'd suggest bracing that floor panel with something like this:

 

https://www.bunnings...-grade_p0070215

 

A few ribs attached vertically, via counter sunk wood screws from the top side will prevent any sagging in that panel over time. 

 

this is what I did in the Flooring of my Dad's Ski boat, now people can walk all over it without fear of it changing shape.

 

[Cook]

Thanks Heath. Understand about the tank (I'm just running original) but am I missing something with the sunroof?  

Daniel, thanks that also made me have a think about what I will use and if/how I will brace it.  Cheers Ron

[orangeLJ]

Thanks Heath. Understand about the tank (I'm just running original) but am I missing something with the sunroof?
Daniel, thanks that also made me have a think about what I will use and if/how I will brace it. Cheers Ron

Heaths fitting (fitted) a hard top style sunroof panel.

So once removed, it will need to be stored somewhere as a complete piece.

Thanks Heath. Understand about the tank (I'm just running original) but am I missing something with the sunroof?
Daniel, thanks that also made me have a think about what I will use and if/how I will brace it. Cheers Ron

Heaths fitting (fitted) a hard top style sunroof panel.

So once removed, it will need to be stored somewhere as a complete piece.

[ozyozyozy]

Nice to know
Only just starting to look into ECU tuning
My project will be running an LS1 and Im putting a little cam into it.
Was thinking at one stage about running multiple throttle bodies, and may still do in the future.
But at this stage I am a long way off needing to modify the tune.
Lots of other things will need doing first.
Started looking at PCMHammer or hacker?
Memory fails me but its on a stored page anyway.
Thats the bonus of copious quantities of endone and its derivatives.

Cheers

Rob

Havent heard of that tuner program.

Lots of people can tune, only a few can do it properly, they can all tune for HP and wide open throttle, its the part throttle/mid range drivability which really makes the car. Alot of tuners also miss setting up the fail safes eg when engine runs hot they pull boost out.
best looking at what local guys use, helps if you come across problems, have local support.
Most tuners have there preferred program or ECU they use, doesnt mean they are better or worse than the next they just know them better. There are alot of good systems out there now.
Im def no expert on this, just some tips that i do know

[Cook]

Ah got it now.  Cheers Ron

[Rockoz]

PCM hacker I believe is a member here.

Pretty sure I followed links from here to his pages on a forum and elsewhere.

Ive heard some horror stories about people getting a mate who knew how to tune to do the job.

I do have a few local choices for expert advice.

But I may have moved away before I get that far.

My project is as much therapy as anything else, and I have no timelines for anything.

But I am having a go as they say. Trying everything I can.

Failure doesnt bother me. Can always do it again.

 

The tuning side is to get it to a point where it will start and run.

May even go to the Holley setup yet.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Bigfella237]

Even though the Holley ECU's are mostly self-tuning, there is still a lot that a competent tuner can do with them (and that needs doing IMHO), but that's getting a little off-topic here in Heath's thread.

[Rockoz]

More off topic Andrew

 

How are you with the fires?

Im a bit north of you I guess and it hasnt been very nice around here.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Bigfella237]

I'll PM you, Rob.

[Uncle Chop Chop]

Well that's the orientation it is designed to sit in (it's that way in the Commodore), it probably does have some kind of splash-guard over it. I'm not super concerned it'll jeopardise the motor life drastically. But for $30 at any local wreckers, I'll take my chances.
 

lol, or how many ideas you can steal. The wiper motor certainly fits into that category. Having a crack is 80% though.

 

If anyone pulls their finger out of their arse, and keeps it out, they will invariably end up building cool shit.

 

Yeah I don't know a lot about them, but they also had some cost involved when I looked last. I didn't much care for hiding the wiper motor if it was going to be expensive. But as this thread demonstrates, I really don't value my time.

 

Had to make drain pipes for the sunroof. I sourced some Nylon tubing from Bunnings, and ran the front sunroof drain pipes down into the A-Pillar:

And into the front wheel tubs:

 

And rears into the B-Pillar:

I wanted to do it out under the floor, but the hatch pillars are an unusual shape and you can't really fit that size tube down through them, so out under the interior vents they go.

 

Little bit of clearance on the interior vents:

Okie dokie. The water will actually flow pretty easily under that trim panel. Just hope I don't get any rust stains!

 

Needed some clips to hold the roof console wiring loom up and direct it back to the B-Pillar: (now that there's a sunroof drain in my A-Pillar):

 

Cleaned it all up and sealed it with some red oxide primer, for that subtle factory look (matches the rest of the car right?)

G'day Heath. If you were worried about rust stains, why didn't you run the tubes elsewhere? Were you just trying to keep the tubes as short as possible?

[Stinga]

Wow, just jumped back on the forum after a long break looking for a bit of inspiration as i am about to pull my UC out of storage. I thought I would pick a couple of build threads to follow as I don't have a lot of time to surf the forum and saw this one near the top (the last time I saw this thread was near the beginning) I have just spent the last 3 days catching up on the build from the start. I don't know what else to say that hasn't already been said, but its looking great. love the sunroof, v8, manual and efi. Cant wait to see the engine/efi come together!

[Heath]

Thanks for the encouragement, gents.
 
Yeah I'm frothing pretty hard for the Sunroof, V8, Manual and EFI combo myself... and basically everything on the car FFS I better finish it off some time before I die so I can enjoy it.
 
Running the rear tubes elsewhere for the sunroof seems difficult... On a sedan it would be easier I guess, but on a hatch it seemed difficult with re-engineering the C pillars. Where else do people successfully put them? Not exactly many examples to use as a reference.
 
SHEEL under that access panel there's stuff all room before the lid of the sunroof, so it'll have to stay as-is. It's pretty strong when supported around the perimeter... plenty of support to put a mattress on etc.
 
Little reproduction latch arrived:

 
Some holes developed:

 
Neato burrito. Still waiting on my stainless 'stay' to arrive.

 
Also grabbed a piece of alloy tube and sectioned it down as a brace to support the scoop.

 
Clamped into position:

 
Glassing it in:

 
Went shopping at Prins Australia in the Western Suburbs. Here was their demo LPG converter:

 
I bought a kit of their parts. 8x 'Purple' (82cc nominal rating) injectors, two black billet converters with lock-offs. Plus some plugs, fittings, etc.

 
Designed and fabricated an ally bracket to mount my two LPG converters on the left hand side of the motor.





Bought the dual wide-band CANbus 02 sensor system from Haltech and made up a little mount next to the main ECU:

Edited by Heath, 01 February 2020 - 11:26 AM.

[racean69]

Wow. well done Heath, have read through this topic over last couple weeks, this is a great build and the info you are sharing is fantastic.

 

shame some of the pics are missing.

Some top ideas in here, some im going to steal.

 

Again well done.

Must be nearly update time

[Heath]

Thanks for the kind words. Yeah not really sure what to do about the Photobucket thing a few years ago.

 

Update? Fair request. I've been pretty flat out on the car, but bodywork isn't very interesting to see in photos.

 

Wasn't happy with my LPG converter mount, so added a bit more meat on the top and welded a stud into the firewall (had to be flush on the interior side to not hit the Haltech, so couldn't nut-sert it):

 

Had to adjust my rear bumper brackets, as the fibreglass bars are a bit narrower and were being bent out by the bracket. Little cut and shut:

 

Bought some KC Holden V8 EFI head valve covers:

 

Had a few little redundant details in the casting I wanted to remove, and a general thorough arris job.

 

Didn't like the breather boss being on both ends:

 

Removed the alloy pressed-in fittings, and "High Flowed" the baffled breather area, by adding an extra hole and porting it a little, lol:

Also tapped that hole to M18.

 

And then gave them a little re-finish on the outside.

 

Finishing up working on the underside of the bonnet:

 

Before & After:

 

 

Had one loose bonnet hinge pivot point:

Elongated hole and worn down pin:

Sorted out the pivot on the lathe:

Welded up and re-shaped the hole:

Welded it back together and then put two slight angle grinder nicks in it to look a bit like the peened over rivets:

Nice and tight, like a new one.

Edited by Heath, 22 March 2020 - 10:47 AM.

[76lxhatch]

Nice work, interesting to see those covers have a lot better baffles than the ones for early heads

[Heath]

I haven't ever worked with the early ones... although I'm told I don't need to worry so much about having good baffles when you run decent roller rockers.

I am a little concerned that these breathing is ported from a fairly low-down area of the valve cover... because I know they can be pumped full of oil if you like driving cars like I drive them.

 

Grabbed a few stainless odds and ends:

 

1-1/2" tube welded to 3mm flat with a 1/2" hole through the middle to bolt onto the rear shock tower braces that I added earlier in the build:

 

1-1/4" tube notched around the mounting areas:

 

Welded up and trimmed:

 

I'll add a bit more to this harness bar & brace in time.

[76lxhatch]

I haven't ever worked with the early ones... although I'm told I don't need to worry so much about having good baffles when you run decent roller rockers.

 

You can restrict the oil up top a bit more with good roller rockers, but you still have to worry about valve spring cooling. These are the standard baffles in mine - almost useless.



This is a previous iteration as I found that the oil seems to track its way around the upper surfaces mostly, the baffles need have an air gap to the cover surface so it can't track to the breather hole. The hole in the end is now blocked since I didn't have enough space to baffle that properly and the PCV comes out the top.

The holes were for the tall rocker adjusting nuts, which was OK as the original YT roller rockers blocked the oil here and directed it through the rocker body to a hole that came out neatly behind the roller tip and didn't spray around the roof of the cover. The newer ones don't have the body drilled like this and spray directly up from the pushrod/adjuster nut, but at least the nuts are a little lower profile. The new baffle is a thinner stainless one with a little more area and no holes, still trying to maintain a ~10mm gap all round. Also enlarged the hole and diameter of first section of hose as you don't want it so small you start getting a venturi effect.

 

I am a little concerned that these breathing is ported from a fairly low-down area of the valve cover... because I know they can be pumped full of oil if you like driving cars like I drive them.

It can definitely be a problem with too much oil in the intake if not baffled right, but I don't think I'd be too concerned about being too low unless its right beside the drain. As above I found that most of the oil being pushed around was high up, so I think it should be fine. I did away with the baffle on the breather cap side and welded a tube to the breather that sits 3/4 of the way down between the rockers and seems to work better. Time will tell but I think your baffles look reasonable.

[mitchg]

Wowzers, just had a read through this whole thread. Amazing build Heath. Had seen some pics on your insta but hadn't been on here for so long.

Very talented man, the build is awesome. Look forward to seeing more!