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Heath's Hatch


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#201 wot179

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 06:13 PM

My suggestion is to zip the UC dash out with a grinder, then carefully and neatly grind off the bit that's left on the windscreen aperture.

Actually grind away the back of the spotwelds and peel the remaining strip off.

You could then fuse the dash in with your TIG, edge to edge.

Plug all the drill holes in the LH dash first and sand it up so it finishes up neat.

Its just a suggestion. Im keen to see how you go about it.

#202 _LHSL308_

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 06:45 PM

Good work Heath. Its not offen you learn from a grasshopper but I am  :spoton:



#203 Heath

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 08:02 PM

Ahh Craig that is a damn good idea but I had already started drilling the spotwelds along the top of the dash in the car a few weeks ago. Bugger! Can still fuse it, but have a fair bit of plug welding to do too :(

What I did on the car was drill the whole way through with every visible spot weld (as the UC dash was going to scrap) and then run along under the join with sandpaper and a torch to find all of the obscured spot welds, marked them on the top and went through from the top too. After a bit of buggering around and cutting it near the pillars, I got the dash out this arvo. Still not cleaned up at the ends though.
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Also cleaned up the ends of the LX dash off the car :)
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#204 micklx

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 10:12 PM

Love your work Heath !



#205 _berro59_

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 05:50 PM

Great work Heath!

Been there done that!

You are going to have fun welding it back in with out getting burnt. When I did mine I joined it back on at the original mounting points over the steering column and got cooked.

You may also need a LX/LH steering columm and wiring harness as the instrementation and indicator stalk witing connections differ from UC.

Good luck and feel free to PM me with questions.



#206 Heath

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 09:53 PM

Yep cool. Fortunately I have a fair few Torana parts and can mix and match, but I'm sure I will have questions. One of which right now, actually.

I'm not used to UC's... this panel hanging from the plenum is not something I recognise from LH/LX? Am I losing my mind? Or is this a UC-specific thing? What's it for?
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Edited by Heath, 13 January 2015 - 09:54 PM.


#207 Neils LX

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Posted 13 January 2015 - 10:19 PM

I haven't taken mine out yet. I'll check out my spare body's on weekend if nobody gets back to you.

#208 hawk

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 05:10 AM

Bonnet release cable clips onto it

#209 Heath

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Posted 14 January 2015 - 06:32 AM

Ah that makes sense. UC has the lever, LX has the direct-pull cable under the dash. Will examine further before deciding what to do.

#210 Heath

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 06:47 AM

Really struggling how to get this LX dash into the UC... do you need to bend it a fair bit?

#211 _ott308_

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 12:14 PM

Shouldn't need to bend it??? It should be the easy bit....



#212 _berro59_

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 02:29 PM

Yeah i didnt bend mine either. Should just fit.



#213 Heath

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Posted 15 January 2015 - 05:53 PM

I have not cut mine short, at all. It protrudes into the areas behind the door hinges, and there's no real way of getting it in. Substantially too long.

#214 _Matvex_

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Posted 16 January 2015 - 07:39 AM

Can you see any evidence of accident history to yr hatch? maybe crosscheck yr measurements with another torana?

 

Also your cut possibly could have been in a stack and the metal has stretched? Im no expert but thought id put it out there.



#215 Heath

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Posted 16 January 2015 - 10:05 AM

lol nothing is out of whack (if your firewall was outta shape, it would be fairly clear), it's simply that everyone else seems to have cut the ends of their dash on/left the ends of the UC dash in there. I carefully removed the UC dash 100% (sacrificing it in the process), and kept the LX dash 100% complete (sacrificing everything around it) not realising any of this, and now while the dash is the right size, there's no way of getting it in the hole past the kinks in the pillars and I actually bent it last night trying to get it in.  :<_<:

 

Ah well. I'll have to be a little more creative.


Edited by Heath, 16 January 2015 - 10:06 AM.


#216 _ott308_

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Posted 16 January 2015 - 11:33 AM

Just went back over my build thread mate. I trimmed mine down about 10mm. As I did the same thing and spent hours getting the UC dash out neatly then more hours getting the LX dash out nicely. Then I trimmed it haha



#217 roxiedog

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 07:31 PM

Heath, mate that's an awesome neat job your doing there .its motivating me to get stuck into the uc I was gonna use for parts. Can't wait to see the finished project

#218 Heath

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 08:41 PM

Thanks Terry.

Feel like I haven't made much progress recently, still got my mind on the car, doing gearbox research and finishing little things that don't show up in photos much.

One of the plans was to lose the handbrake. Welded up the holes so far, but I will also be unpicking the brackets from the underside of the car etc. I want this car to be on a diet even with the heavy driveline and all the shit I'm too stubborn about to do without, so any un-necessary factory bracketry I can get rid of is good haha
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Edited by Heath, 21 January 2015 - 08:42 PM.


#219 Heath

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 10:08 PM

Got my eye on a gearbox at the moment, but won't say too much until it happens.

To answer Toranamat69's question, I'm planning on keeping the brake lines going down the guards. I'm so used to seeing them that it just feels Torana-ish to have them. But I don't love the holes through the the tubs too much.
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#220 _mello92_

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 10:18 PM

frOck you're not bad Heath, good stuff.

#221 wot179

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Posted 23 January 2015 - 10:18 PM

Rocol will help keep your rotary burr sharp when you finish tidying that up after you rough it in with a grinder, Heath.

I recommend a 3mm grinding disc (old style cutting disc) to gently knock the welds into shape first, brushing the wheel gently across the weld.

Concentrate on only grinding the weld and NOTHING ELSE

Slowly slowly catchy monkey.





If you put the guard back on, you can use your thumb against the top of it to help gain finer control of the grinder, too.

#222 Heath

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Posted 24 January 2015 - 07:26 AM

haha I have not used a 3mm wide cutting disc in a long time - do they even sell them anymore? I've been using one of those 'flexible grinding discs' with decent success, but I'd be lying if I said I'd never slid off the weld and into the sheet metal.

Sounds like good advice, though. The guard does go on for some jobs.

#223 Heath

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Posted 25 January 2015 - 11:21 PM

Well my mate came Groges down today to check out my work on the car and we decided that I should take the bay a little further. An hour later we had one side almost ready for welding haha
 
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Used a spare bit of one of the donor front cut's inner guards as it already had a similar compound curve:
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#224 UC308Hatch

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 08:19 AM

Looking good, went a bit further than me!!


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#225 _parsons5000_

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Posted 26 January 2015 - 05:46 PM

Haha will always be a uc torana though




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