Chemical dipping
#26
Posted 26 August 2013 - 06:14 PM
#27 _sloffador_
Posted 26 August 2013 - 06:41 PM
These people who are doing this have the contract with the Australian army
ive been to there new setup and its pretty flash
#28 _Viper_
Posted 26 August 2013 - 07:30 PM
We recently stripped the door skin off a HG Monaro and alot of the interior of the door was bare metal, the section where the inner and outer were spot welded together was covered in rust, not sure if its the same on all models?
#29
Posted 29 March 2014 - 03:54 PM
Its been a while since some of you guys have had panels dipped. Any current feedback? Cheers
#30 _sloffador_
Posted 31 March 2014 - 07:23 PM
These panels were done in end of july 2013 haven't touched them this then and still the same with no rust setting in
Had the shell done in dec 2013 , have started to etch prime had lots of humid days and wet periods with minimal amounts of surface rust appearing
You have got to keep an eye on it to see if any surface rust is appearing
Other than that very happy with how clean it is to work with
#31
Posted 31 March 2014 - 07:55 PM
Thanks Peter. Can I ask what the metal is coated or dipped in post acid bath? And does that have to be removed to apply the etch?
#32
Posted 01 April 2014 - 10:16 AM
Hi all, if you were removing a skin of some sort. I would personally use a clean & strip "seaweed" type disc"on the seam edge where new panel will be rolled over same inside new panel", then use a quality weld through primer like robolo ect make, so you could spot weld through it. If i was to strip the shell, i personally would use paint stripper & a scraper. then i would go over the panels with the "seaweed" disc on a 5" grinder these discs actually are very smooth & give a excellent surface to expoxy etch. Of course use wax & grease remover before primer. & i don't use anything but sikkens ep epoxy etch & hardener 2k of course about $100 for 1ltr of ep + it's hardener which is very good value for money imo. The thinners though is $165 for 5ltrs. but if it stops the rust, this stuff basically chemically changes the steel to stop rust & i've strip some of panels to prove it. then sikkens colourbuild plus high build primer "tintable" over that, then top coat. i would use media blasting say on the solid panels like pillars engine bay boot bay ect. not on the outside. Try doing a panel @ a time with the paint stripper & etch then you only have to go to the blasters once & allways etch the same day you strip the panel. I'd stay away from cavity wax & paint waxes simply because there waxes & create silicone spots in the paint "ie fish eyes" I have used tectol, new engine & automatic oil & shell enzis fluid mix these all together in a "Wollies type" squirter bottle like your mr's probably uses on her hair & this will get into the seams do this about 3 times one month apart, Clean excess with some wax & grease remover & wallah job done & no more rust. Cheers Gary.
#33
Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:59 PM
Thanks for that detailed reply Grumpy.
Still some more points on the dipping. I'm interested in this process because it should remove the surface rust from inside the panels, under the dash etc. My torana has been sitting awhile & has surface rust all throughout. Dipping should remove this stuff. Neutralising should remove the acid & cease the corrosive effects of the acid. Some of the guys report that they have had panels sitting for a fair while after dipping & no adverse effects.
I note that it seems that the metal is dipped in an anti corrosive agent. Does this sealer (whatever it is) require removal prior to etching? If so that is a real pain? Other relevant questions might be - how long does the sealer last inside the inaccessible areas? I know some of these have been addressed, just looking for a little more clarity. Cheers
#34 _sloffador_
Posted 02 April 2014 - 11:14 PM
After the panels are dipped they are re-dipped in the phosphate tank which leaves a coating
Panels then must be rubbed down with scotchbrite pads and cleaned with prepsol before etching
It sounds simple but im keeping an eye on it
Afterwards you have to treat the cavities with some sort of treatment ,my friend who is doing the repairs is going to use lanoguard
Edited by sloffador, 02 April 2014 - 11:15 PM.
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