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10/70 LC RALLEY RED XU-I RUST/GAP REPAIRS


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#126 sibhs

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 08:51 PM

Mike, like the others say, charge by the hour, keep it fair and you will always be in work, you'll be making money and never be tempted to cut corners for costs.(not that you would)  

This is how I run my business and once you have peoples trust they're more than happy to work this way. They get a better job at a better price.  You have already earnt many peoples trust with your honesty and quality workmanship. Keep them updated with progress, price and problems. (solutions)

Changing the subject here, What's the name of your car thread (forgotten 'cause to many other ones happening) and when are you getting back into it?

You have a natural talent, and seem to enjoy it, you just need to make it work for you.

 

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#127 _stapla22_

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 09:22 PM

Its a tough time at the moment,  many people just don't have the spare coin to spend on cars and stuff.  Imagine if you had the overheads of staff and workshop to look after today.

 

If you can wait a while, it will pickup again.  The torana resto market is only so big at the moment.  A few years ago was when people were spending big dollars on projects.  It would only take a couple of these big $$ projects a year to keep you off the dole queue. 

 

I can see both sides of the coin.  If you quote say $2k and it turns into $10k - people get upset.  Its a tough spot - what should u do - work for free ? 

 

You will get better at quoting hours / setting expectations and this will reduce the bill shock issues.   Having cars blasted BEFORE quoting will help too.

 

I don't blame some of the shops for doing dodgy work.  In reality, if say someone paints your car for say $6k inc rust - they HAVE to cut corners on the rust work.  They probably just don't have the communication skills to explain that $6k doesn't allow it to be done properly.

 

There should be a quality scale in the paint / panel industry.

 

Eg

$6k bog job including paint = 3/10

$15k rust - full metal finish, no bog, $5k panel beating and gaps, $10k paint = 9/10

 

If people know what they are getting then its less likely they will get upset.



#128 S pack

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Posted 11 September 2013 - 10:50 PM

It's easy to say only work on an hourly rate - problem with rust repairs is 'how long is a piece of string' and how deep are the clients pockets?

People will usually ask how much do you think the job will cost, whether it be simple curiosity or because they do actually have budgetary restraints.

 

Once you utter even a guesstimated price you are usually doomed. People conveniently forget the price you told them was only a guess or ballpark and suddenly you find the arguments start because you apparently quoted them a fixed price to do the work and it shouldn't cost a cent more.

 

Communication is the key to success, keep the client updated on the progress of their project and get regular progress payments. Set boundaries, advise clients at the very start that the moment you issue a progress payment claim all work on their project will cease until the progress payment is received.

 

Also I agree with Stapla, insist on the client having the car BLASTED so you can see what you are quoting.

 

Cheers

Dave.



#129 _mikecatts_

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 07:46 AM

Hi All....

Thanks for the advice, encouragment... I have taken note of what has been said.

 

I have been trying to charge by the hour.. Seems to add up and when I say how long Ive been on the car.. I get blank looks,, Not from this guy,, Hes ok.. I do feel for him. Hes ok about work.. Its that I cant charge him what I want.

Im not having a go at the owner, he has done everything ok for me.. Hes cool about the job and knows hes in my hands.. I wont and cant rip him..

 

I have learned, the hard way as usual..

 

What I have decided is to finnish this car.... Then re-evaluate what Im going to do...

I seem to have a knack for making replacement rust patch panels.. maybe I should only do that and supply only.... But how long will that last?

 

I will fix my cars.. there are 5 need doing.. 2 are for sale and 3 are keepers...

After they are done... Then Ill rethink my situation...

 

Guys, Im happy to do work, just need to get what Im earning, the hours guys, the hours....,

All the cars I have done.. Ive lost out.... So in the future I wont, saves the winging and makes me look bad.. They either pay what I want, or take it elsware... And we ALL know what kind of job they will get... Im fixing one now :)

 

 

This car is now up to 353 hours plus  $800 worth of consumables. Im going to ask the clients to supply ALL consumables.. That way they know that it aint cheap.. and I wont loose out. And saves me time/petrol running around. They can do that..

 

Question... How much would you guys pay for me to do the work on your cars???????

 

 

any way..After my winge back to the build..

 

I finnsihed the RH sill end, patched the dodgy floor work, The floor is so thin where they fixed it, Its like trying to weld alumin foil.. I cut it ALL out and put a proper piece in.. Ill have to do the same for the LH side as well... (im not getting paid to do this by the way)....

Fitted the RH guard and started to weld on.. Just have to seam seal the sill end and weld on bottom lip/alinge sill gap.

 

All gaps are good, I will  have to fix the RH door gaps.. They are a mess.. Cowl gaps are zero. Bonnet gaps are paddle pop.

 

Nearly done.. Ill have a grinding day to clean the welds up, It will  have to go on rotisserie as I need to get underneath ( not getting paid for this either, it a takes a while to get on).

Then done and gone...

 

Mike

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#130 Potta

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 09:41 AM

Great work as always Mike.

 

Try not to worry about the money side of it right now, obviously you need to make a living if this is what you are going to do, but that isn't the main reason you started doing this.

 

It must give you a tremendous amount of satisfaction to look back at where this car started and see where it is now,.



#131 N/A-PWR

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Posted 13 September 2013 - 12:45 PM

G'day Mike,
Thank's for your side of the story, if it was me, I'd be saying,
this could cost you 13 Grand to do your Torana properly.
I now see to pay that sort of money for a GTR or XU1 to get done.
Good Luck in your Future Sales. Best Regards Dave I

#132 _mikecatts_

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 07:18 AM

Hi all....

Ta for the advice and kind words.. I had a good break over the weekend..No cars stuff at all... Im fresh and ready for more..

 

anyway..

I managed to finnish welding on the RH guard.. Fitted the door and started to do the gaps.. Im putting rods on the door instead of the guard as the door is wrong, not the guard and Ide like to keep the nice guard curve...

Fiddley, time consumming but important to get right.

The RH rear door jam is a mess and will need rods welded in like the LH side.. very thin metal where they ground it away..

 

Getting there..

Mike



Great work as always Mike.

 

Try not to worry about the money side of it right now, obviously you need to make a living if this is what you are going to do, but that isn't the main reason you started doing this.

 

It must give you a tremendous amount of satisfaction to look back at where this car started and see where it is now,.

I do get satisfaction..Its the only thing that really inspires me to do the jobs.. I enjoy "creating".... The money side of it...Well, im working on it :)

Mike



G'day Mike,
Thank's for your side of the story, if it was me, I'd be saying,
this could cost you 13 Grand to do your Torana properly.
I now see to pay that sort of money for a GTR or XU1 to get done.
Good Luck in your Future Sales. Best Regards Dave I

Ta Dave... 13k is about right Dave.. That would do the WHOLE car, top to bottom.

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#133 purrlx

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 12:04 PM

awesome work Mike don't reply to many but read and watch a lot, hope you keep doing these inspires the rest of us to do more as well and the photos and details are great



#134 _mikecatts_

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 01:44 PM

.

 

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=wpr_MMeyrWg



#135 _mikecatts_

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Posted 16 September 2013 - 07:07 PM

Hi all....

I had a productive day today.. I finnished the RH door and got the RH door gaps nice.... I had to build up the RH rear door to guard area.. Took a while... Turned out very well..

It will need some high fill to finnish the door, At least it has a metal edge as to bog, The high fill is not my department :)

 

All lines are correct and door closes nice too...

I placed it on the rotissiere. ready to clean up some welding....

Ill have to do some more floor patching.. Ive seen a nasty..

 

After that and final inspection.. Id say Its done, The repairs/areas I worked on anyway... Im happy with the out come, Doors and guards line up very nice.. 100% better.. :)

 

Mike

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Edited by mikecatts, 16 September 2013 - 07:11 PM.


#136 _mikecatts_

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Posted 19 September 2013 - 07:01 AM

Hi all...

 

The car has had the underneath fixed/cleaned.welds ground and primed. I had to fix the LH side floor as it was soo thin and dodgy welding.. 2 patches..

 

Its off the rotissirie, back on the trolley for the final work..

 

I also Sandblasted and POR 15 the front bottom window lip.

 

Just have to check/ adjust  gaps, a little weld grinding, give it a once over and its done....

Roughly 400 hours to do this car.. The time took fixing the dodgy repairs as it wasnt sandblasted and kept revealing more work/rust to be fixed.

 

Its done now and the owner should be happy..

 

 

Mike

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#137 _mikecatts_

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 08:20 PM

Hi all....

 

The car is done...

 

All gaps are good, all panels are straight.

 

I even managed to countersink the inside door uppers and weld on "original" door trim rivets..  As per original looking. No holes in these doors..

 

I had to do some fiddly work on the bonnet to nose panel corners to get the gaps.. A little heat shrinking and dolly work was required.. Also managed to get the doors/guards to line up on the flat plane as well... It required a little dolly/ shrinking work as well...

 

All told this car has very nice gaps, the lines are nice and the doors open/close very easily... Filled with fish oil and ready to go home.

All told 387 hours.... A lot of fiddly, work chasing rust.. I/we have learned with this car..

 

Im having a break, going to finnish the panel work on my car.. Im going to re-do the gaps as I not happy with them after seeing how this car worked out...

Thats in my other build trhread..Stay tuned..

Mike

 

 

posting BIG pics as they are the last and Im sure you all like a GOOD look.

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#138 _mikecatts_

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 08:22 PM

more pics

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#139 _mikecatts_

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Posted 24 September 2013 - 08:25 PM

more

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#140 nstood

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 07:35 AM

Hi, been watching this thread with interest.  I just bought some new doors off a shell - they were a beautiful fit on the original shell and in great nick (so was the shell).  Put them on my gtr and one side the body lines are all over the place - looks like the new door is twisted by 10mm!! The other side won't even go on as the hinges don't line up as the top hing on the dor is 5mm high (I did not expect to see a difference at all here). How would you recommend trying to fit doors if the guards are still on? You also mentioned a few custom tools to assist - any pics?

Cheers,



#141 nstood

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 09:01 AM

Let me add - by fit I mean adjust the gaps etc.



#142 _mikecatts_

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 09:09 AM

Havnt been here for a while..

I wonder how this is going? Ide like to see the finnished product?

 

 

Hi, been watching this thread with interest.  I just bought some new doors off a shell - they were a beautiful fit on the original shell and in great nick (so was the shell).  Put them on my gtr and one side the body lines are all over the place - looks like the new door is twisted by 10mm!! The other side won't even go on as the hinges don't line up as the top hing on the dor is 5mm high (I did not expect to see a difference at all here). How would you recommend trying to fit doors if the guards are still on? You also mentioned a few custom tools to assist - any pics?

Cheers,

Troll through this build and see how I cut the hinge barrels off, tacked the doors in place and re welded the barrels on..

With the guards on. It will be difficult to weld the barrels back on..

 

If you really need to move the hinges.. You might be able to grind offf the original welding on the inside of the A-pillar, move and re-weld.. I have thought of that, but as yet havnt had a reason to.

 

The other way is to heat the hingers and "bend".. It will only go so far..

 

If the doors sit too low or to high, you can grind/cut some of the hinge barrel either top or bottom and fit washers to take up the slack.

 

If the door is drooping and you have to lift to close, re adjust the door stricker, if is still sitting too low, "bend" the hinge plate either way.. I heat this area first.

 

Usually I find the hinge pin and barrel has worn and thats most of the problem.

 

I too have found that different doors fit diffently.

 Thats Toranas, no 2 are the same..

 

New, computer built cars are pretty much the same nowadays... Not like when the 10 pound Poms built them, no pun intended.

Mike



#143 ZUSE

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Posted 11 June 2014 - 01:13 PM

Havnt been here for a while..

I wonder how this is going? Ide like to see the finnished product?

 

 

Troll through this build and see how I cut the hinge barrels off, tacked the doors in place and re welded the barrels on..

With the guards on. It will be difficult to weld the barrels back on..

 

If you really need to move the hinges.. You might be able to grind offf the original welding on the inside of the A-pillar, move and re-weld.. I have thought of that, but as yet havnt had a reason to.

 

The other way is to heat the hingers and "bend".. It will only go so far..

 

If the doors sit too low or to high, you can grind/cut some of the hinge barrel either top or bottom and fit washers to take up the slack.

 

If the door is drooping and you have to lift to close, re adjust the door stricker, if is still sitting too low, "bend" the hinge plate either way.. I heat this area first.

 

Usually I find the hinge pin and barrel has worn and thats most of the problem.

 

I too have found that different doors fit diffently.

 Thats Toranas, no 2 are the same..

 

New, computer built cars are pretty much the same nowadays... Not like when the 10 pound Poms built them, no pun intended.

Mike

hi mike

body has not change since it left your house ? 

every thing else has been rebuilt ,diff ,engine head ,carbs, interior,gearbox, act ?

ill post some pics up ( if the boys help ?? )



#144 LC-GTR-1969

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 08:31 PM

Hi Mike,

 

I just want to commend you on your work.

 

Your attention to detail and quality is second to none, and for that your should take great satisfaction.

 

As you would well know, many tradesman 'sell-out' and produce crap and charge gold. I have been stung before and avoid many tradespeople where possible (due to past experiences).

 

Your work will stand the test of time, and over time, I believe you will be paid accordingly for your work.

 

I don't do any panel work but for many years have completed engine restorations/rebuilds for self-satisfaction, and flipped them to re-coup (and occasionally make) cash. Whilst it would be great to earn more, the journey has been far more rewarding than the destination, if that makes sense. The skills you have developed, and demonstrated, will pay you back ten fold mate. One thing leads to another, and all I can say is I am sure work will come your way from this build.

 

I am fortunate that my LC was built with the same tender loving care as you treat your cars, and it has stood the test of time. Mine was restored in the early 90's and is still immaculate, not a drop of rust and zero issues, but this is only due to the excellent work done all those years ago. In a nutshell, your work will be appreciated for many, many years to come, which must be very rewarding!

 

Keep up the great, no, correction, exceptional work mate!

 

BTW I love the fact that you refuse second grade quality, and have a heart full of empathy for the battler. Karma will reward you my friend.

 

It is my shout for beers if I ever meet you champ, regards.


Edited by LC-GTR-1969, 17 July 2014 - 08:33 PM.


#145 _mikecatts_

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 10:02 PM

Hi Mike,

 

I just want to commend you on your work.

 

Your attention to detail and quality is second to none, and for that your should take great satisfaction.

 

As you would well know, many tradesman 'sell-out' and produce crap and charge gold. I have been stung before and avoid many tradespeople where possible (due to past experiences).

 

Your work will stand the test of time, and over time, I believe you will be paid accordingly for your work.

 

I don't do any panel work but for many years have completed engine restorations/rebuilds for self-satisfaction, and flipped them to re-coup (and occasionally make) cash. Whilst it would be great to earn more, the journey has been far more rewarding than the destination, if that makes sense. The skills you have developed, and demonstrated, will pay you back ten fold mate. One thing leads to another, and all I can say is I am sure work will come your way from this build.

 

I am fortunate that my LC was built with the same tender loving care as you treat your cars, and it has stood the test of time. Mine was restored in the early 90's and is still immaculate, not a drop of rust and zero issues, but this is only due to the excellent work done all those years ago. In a nutshell, your work will be appreciated for many, many years to come, which must be very rewarding!

 

Keep up the great, no, correction, exceptional work mate!

 

BTW I love the fact that you refuse second grade quality, and have a heart full of empathy for the battler. Karma will reward you my friend.

 

It is my shout for beers if I ever meet you champ, regards.

Hi There.. Ta for the kind words.. Ive taken on a few more cars since this post.. I havnt posted/started a thread as its all the same work..

Im starting a fellow forum members car soon.. I might do a thread.

Ive gotten very confident around these cars.. Can do much better/quicker now..

Im panel beating as well... Just need to get better at it to be very confident.. The welding is great.. no shrinking or warping..

 

Check out my other threads..

It will keep you amused for a bit.

Mike

 

http://www.gmh-toran...airs-on-lj-gtr/

 

http://www.gmh-toran...r-xu-1-rebuild/



#146 MRGMH

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:36 PM

Awesome work mike as usual

What welder do you use? Would a cigweld 135 with gas be a good welder for panel work?

I

#147 Indy Orange

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 12:40 PM

Inspirational stuff Mike ,well done.



#148 N/A-PWR

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 12:47 PM

Good Tick's of Approval, for the Gap's, too.



#149 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 05:50 PM

Awesome work mike as usual

What welder do you use? Would a cigweld 135 with gas be a good welder for panel work?

I

lincon trans mig.... I wouldnt know about the cigweld..

I like my welder as I have ALL the control..IE: wire feed/amps and volts.. very important as Im always adjusting to suit the individual welds... Using .8 BOG gas wire, The cheap chineese crap that bunnings sells is rubbish.. Buy the best wire you can afford. with a .9 tip... gas set at 8..... using oxygen/argon mix as to carbon dioxide/argon..

The oxygen/argon is designed for thin metal up to 6mm... Works a treat for me..



Inspirational stuff Mike ,well done.

I try :D



Good Tick's of Approval, for the Gap's, too.

My old panel beater mate calls me "paddle pop stick Mike"..



#150 _mikecatts_

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Posted 20 July 2014 - 06:23 PM

this is the pic of my welder. best $1000 i ever spent.

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