Thanks for addning somemore detail around these calipers. I guess that eliminates using a UC caliper. Seems there are 2 options to go with. Either the HQ cast caliper or getting some HX slides and adding those to my existing torana calipers.
Best caliper for torana stubs and turned down HQ discs
Started by
_LHSL308_
, Jul 31 2013 09:38 PM
49 replies to this topic
#27
_Lazarus_
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 01:16 PM
Rexy has already told you exactly what I said... there is nothing wrong with the alloy PBRs in a mild street car.
She says she had them for 15 years I think she said, I used them for around the same time on the two cars. And I used to load the panel van up 2 or 3 times a week and go down the Rex Range to do the markets. I didn't even consider that I might have to be careful owing to 'pooh' calipers.
I wouldn't have saved a spare pair and I wouldn't be using them on my UC if I had found anything wrong with them. But then I've always been easy on brakes. Many drivers aren't.
It's up to you.
#28
_LHSL308_
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 02:02 PM
The HQ PBR cast calipers are quite easy to get with a few sets being advertised every week. Ideally if they dont need any grinding they would be my preferred choice, I am just not absolutely sure yet whether they do need modding. Otherwise I guess a torana caliper with the HX slides will be the go.
#29
Toranamat69
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 02:04 PM
They make some strange noises though.
#30
_LHSL308_
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 02:09 PM
They make some strange noises though.
What do the UC calipers?
#31
_LS1 Taxi_
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 03:07 PM
No need to be scared of grinding.
My advice...Follow the advice of those who know and get the best calipers possible. (cast PBR's or Girlocks according to Datto).
I've got the cast girlocks and the grinding took 15 minutes total and once painted up, looks real nice, almost factory. No clearance issues at all.
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#32
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 04:07 PM
Not scared of grinding just would prefer not to if I dont have to. Here are some pics of my existing calipers, they look to be original cast calipers but I'll leave that to people who know a bit more about them. Funny enough the ones I have got look like they have been grinded as some stage where the tie rod end is unless thats how they're made.
#33
View GaragePosted 03 August 2013 - 08:30 PM
They're made with that clearance for the tie rod ends.
You do have the original LH calipers so you cannot use them at all with the thicker vented discs. The grinding that was originally talked about with regard to the stub axles should not be necessary since those calipers require the larger amount of clearance (so the stubs must have it).
#34
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 08:54 PM
They're made with that clearance for the tie rod ends.
You do have the original LH calipers so you cannot use them at all with the thicker vented discs. The grinding that was originally talked about with regard to the stub axles should not be necessary since those calipers require the larger amount of clearance (so the stubs must have it).
So my stubs I have now will already have the groove cut out where the caliper bolts on?
#35
Posted 03 August 2013 - 10:26 PM
Yes they should do because the calipers on there now require it
#36
_LHSL308_
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Posted 03 August 2013 - 10:51 PM
No worries thanks all for your sterling advice 
#37
TerrA LX
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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:57 AM
Well me thinks wrong. As stated above I am changing the pattern due to Weld draglites not coming in Torana pattern. Brakes would be a bonus for not much extra. Hoppers are too expensive and dont want to go to the trouble of changing steering arms and the like. Easiest option for someone who hasnt got a lot of experience pulling down front ends is turn down a set of new HQ discs and get a set of calipers that won't foul anything or at least need minimal grinding.
OK, I misunderstood you, I thought you wanted to fit HQ rotors and change the stud pattern back to Torana or something.
FWIW they all take the same size brake pad (bar the early HQ, correction needed), the HQ vented disc being the main part of the upgrade.
#38
Toranamat69
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Posted 04 August 2013 - 10:53 AM
Posted Yesterday, 03:09 PM
Toranamat69, on 02 Aug 2013 - 21:11, said:
They make some strange noises though.
What do the UC calipers?
The alloy PBR LX, early UC / HX ones.
#39
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Posted 04 August 2013 - 03:03 PM
OK, I misunderstood you, I thought you wanted to fit HQ rotors and change the stud pattern back to Torana or something.
FWIW they all take the same size brake pad (bar the early HQ, correction needed), the HQ vented disc being the main part of the upgrade.
Me thinks you need to read the thread properly 
#40
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Posted 05 August 2013 - 09:52 AM
You said you wanted to upgrade to HQ AND change the stud pattern, no need to re read that.
#41
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Posted 28 August 2013 - 04:57 PM
Got another thing to consider guys. On the front currently I have 185/60/14 which according to the chart are 22.74 inches in height. When I turn the steering wheel to the point where the tyre is at its closest point to the guard I have approx 1 and 1/4 inches of room. My new Welds have a tyre thats 205/65/15 which is 25.49 in height.
Now according to my measurements I only can go a tyre thats 2 and 1/2 inches in height more before the tyre will rub on the guard. So the 205/65/15 will rub by about 1/4 inch in total height or 1/8inch at the front of the tyre.
Yet to do my brake upgrade but have new turned down HQ disks and will be keeping the existing stub axles. I am not sure if this upgrade will offset the disk outwards compared to the existing disks. If it does then we could be looking at even more clearance issues.
Does all this sound correct and is there anything else I need to take into account?
Here is where i got the tyre heights from.
http://www.jekylhyde...ightofTires.htm
#42
Toranamat69
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Posted 28 August 2013 - 05:13 PM
I don't think the HQ disc offsets the disk out further - however your wider tires may make the clearance issue even worse than the 1/8inch you mention above depending on the offset of your new wheels compared with your old ones.
#43
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Posted 28 August 2013 - 05:27 PM
The backspace and width of the new rims are exactly the same as the old ones. Both are 7 inch rim with 4.5 backspace so shouldnt be an issue there. I figure if I have got 1 and 1/4 inch at the front of the wheels at the moment and I can go up to 2 inches in total height of new tyres and should still be clear. Might have to buy a pair of 205/60/15 which are 24.69 inches in height depending how much actual clearance there is with the 205/65's. Could also go a 55 series tyre as well if the 60 series tyre is a bit tight I guess.
#44
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 28 August 2013 - 10:09 PM
Actual size of a 205/55/15 can vary considerably from one manufacturer to another.
It would be safer to use manufacturer specification sheets for the tyres you are considering buying rather than a generic specification.
Something like this from the Toyo site.
http://www.toyotires..._41017/Proxes_4
The HQ discs do not alter the offset.
LX disc on LX stub axle 42 mm from stub axle tip to BUF.
HQ disc on LX stub axle 42 mm from stub axle tip to BUF.
It would be safer to use manufacturer specification sheets for the tyres you are considering buying rather than a generic specification.
Something like this from the Toyo site.
http://www.toyotires..._41017/Proxes_4
The HQ discs do not alter the offset.
LX disc on LX stub axle 42 mm from stub axle tip to BUF.
HQ disc on LX stub axle 42 mm from stub axle tip to BUF.
#45
_LHSL308_
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Posted 28 August 2013 - 11:01 PM
Thanks mate. Understand that different manufacturers may have different tyre diameters. It would seem that the Toyo tyres are very close to that tyre diameter link I put up. If you compare the results in the pdf 205/50/15 is 586mm diameter. A tire height chart tyre of 205/50/15 is 23.07 which according to my measuring tape is pretty damn close if not exactly the same.
Edited by Gonedeaf, 28 August 2013 - 11:03 PM.
#46
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Posted 29 August 2013 - 08:05 AM
The HQ discs do not alter the offset.
LX disc on LX stub axle 42 mm from stub axle tip to BUF.
HQ disc on LX stub axle 42 mm from stub axle tip to BUF.
An accurate measurement would have to be taken from the ball joint axis to the BUF.
#47
Posted 29 August 2013 - 11:07 AM
The two discs were on the same stub axle, that measurement is perfectly accurate...
#48
_LHSL308_
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Posted 21 October 2013 - 05:11 PM
Changed the front tyres to a smaller diameter tyre to fix the rubbing issue on the lower front corner of the guard. In the end we put a 195/55/15 tyre that was 23.44 inches in diameter. This cleared the front inner guard by about 10mm and enables me to use the steering to its full without any rubbing issues. The tyre that was on there was a 205/65/15 which at about 50% wear was 25 inches in diameter and easily rubbing.
Thought I would throw this up just in case anyone puts on 15 inch rims so they know what tyre diameter to get to avoid any rubbing issues. Anything close to 23.5 inches will clear.
#49
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Posted 21 October 2013 - 07:45 PM
You should be able to get 225s in not a prob with a bit of tender luv with a hammer if your talking about the foot well.Not sure to requirement to standard guards Ive only ever had flares.Bend the seam back and stretch the foot well skin then fill the bent over seam with some kind of mastic for rust prevention.Had 15x 8s with 245s for years only polish with hard driving.
#50
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Posted 21 October 2013 - 08:23 PM
You should be able to get 225s in not a prob with a bit of tender luv with a hammer if your talking about the foot well.Not sure to requirement to standard guards Ive only ever had flares.Bend the seam back and stretch the foot well skin then fill the bent over seam with some kind of mastic for rust prevention.Had 15x 8s with 245s for years only polish with hard driving.
No havent got flares and besides I like the wheels and tyre combo on it now. Big beefy tyre on the back and an average size tyre on the front. I have accomplished the look I was after.
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