
SLR RESTORATION
#51
_cool72_
Posted 14 January 2014 - 06:13 AM
#52
_sloffador_
Posted 14 January 2014 - 01:22 PM
Yeh Glen ,the shell is dipped into the first tank which kills any rust
Then the second tank gets rid of the paint and bog or other crap,whilst doing this they take it out and pressure wash it as well
Then its dipped back in the first solution that leaves a phosphate coating which gives you approx. 12-18 months with no surface rust
as long as its stored in a dry place,but as soon as you do any work on it you have to prime
we are going to hook in and etch prime it pretty quickly just in case
I got this done at Re-coat at Albury-Wadonga
#53
Posted 14 January 2014 - 01:58 PM
Just make sure the body seems are resealed. Had a friend who got his GT done and they just etched it, painted over the etch. The body squeaked on large bumps etc.
#54
_cool72_
Posted 14 January 2014 - 02:18 PM
Thanks guy's that is interesting. Is there any downside. I was heading down the sandblast/sodablast track but this seems way better.
you get this done before hacking into the rusty bits right ????? What is the approximate cost please.
Glen
#55
_sloffador_
Posted 14 January 2014 - 03:35 PM
Yeh you have to reseal everything properly again
This bloke who did this has just set up a new facility and has re-done the solutions so you better do some homework on who does it where your from
Downside is ive heard that things don't go so good if the dip is not nuetralised properly
The cost was 2K for the bare shell and $200 per panel
And yes you get this done before touching anything because it shows up all the hidden secrets
#56
_mick74lh_
Posted 16 January 2014 - 04:41 PM
Interesting method. I've never seen anyone use that but it looks to have worked amazingly. Bloody good shell too! It honestly looks like a brand new shell on the production line.
When you factor in the time it would take to strip everything by hand that 2K seems like good value to me.
Keen to see the rest of your project unfold.
#57
_sloffador_
Posted 16 January 2014 - 08:26 PM
Believe me its clean but its far from perfect
Photos don't show up the the little dents and knocks
But at least its straight, yeh and it would have taken me a year to strip it by hand unless I gave up working so the price was cheap to me
But the best part no rust
Edited by sloffador, 16 January 2014 - 08:37 PM.
#58
Posted 14 July 2014 - 03:30 PM
Hi Peter,
How much does it cost to Chemical Dip a Torana, these day's?
seems like a great option for a Rusty Torana, like my RAT.
Great, Clean Project Build
#59
_sloffador_
Posted 14 July 2014 - 07:00 PM
Hey Dave
It is a clean way to do it
But it seems like a lot of people need convincing
Any way it cost me 3.2k to do shell, doors, bonnet and boot
By the way car is looking good at this stage
And is there any one over there doing dipping
Cheers Peter
#60
Posted 14 July 2014 - 07:07 PM
Thank's Peter,
Is a higher price than I was imagining, but like you said, it would take a year to do the same job manually.
I will do a bit of Hunting around tomorrow and find out who is doing Chemical dipping.
#61
Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:13 AM
#62
_sloffador_
Posted 08 November 2016 - 09:47 PM
Well approx three years down the track
All body work completed
Pics and update to come
#63
Posted 09 November 2016 - 01:45 AM
#64
_sloffador_
Posted 14 November 2016 - 06:05 PM
Photo's won't upload
Does anyone else have problems
#65
_sloffador_
Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:29 PM
#66
_sloffador_
Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:50 PM
#67
_sloffador_
Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:02 PM
#68
_sloffador_
Posted 20 November 2016 - 01:05 PM
#69
_parsons5000_
Posted 21 November 2016 - 08:14 AM
good job mate , take u awhile to fit the kframe to the body ?
#70
_sloffador_
Posted 21 November 2016 - 04:48 PM
you'd probably laugh at me how I did it
But within an hour it was in
#71
Posted 21 November 2016 - 06:24 PM
#72
_parsons5000_
Posted 21 November 2016 - 08:54 PM
#73
_sloffador_
Posted 21 November 2016 - 09:39 PM
I just picked up the front and wheeled k frame under
I used a couple of step ladders with a length of rhs and a block and tackle
A floor jack a a jockey wheel bolted to the gearbox makes life easy
#74
_sloffador_
Posted 04 December 2016 - 01:26 PM
#75
Posted 13 December 2016 - 07:49 AM
Have a close look at your engine mounts and make sure that the engine is sitting on both of them evenly and all the way down. (Try to see the holes without the bolts installed.) It is very easy to have one or both sides catching and hooked up too high. Also worth looking at the mounts to make sure that they are Torana or HQ. Google or searching this forum should be able to help you identify them.
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