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SLR RESTORATION


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#51 _cool72_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 06:13 AM

Hi Mate, that looks very impressive. Can you explain the dipping process as that is exactly what I need to do

#52 _sloffador_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 01:22 PM

Yeh Glen ,the shell is dipped into the first tank which kills any rust

Then the second tank gets rid of the paint and bog or other crap,whilst doing this they take it out and pressure wash it as well

Then its dipped back in the first solution that leaves a phosphate coating which gives you approx. 12-18 months with no surface rust

as long as its stored in a dry place,but as soon as you do any work on it you have to prime

we are going to hook in and etch prime it pretty quickly just in case

I got this done at Re-coat at Albury-Wadonga



#53 myss427

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 01:58 PM

Just make sure the body seems are resealed. Had a friend who got his GT done and they just etched it, painted over the etch. The body squeaked on large bumps etc.



#54 _cool72_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 02:18 PM

Thanks guy's that is interesting. Is there any downside. I was heading down the sandblast/sodablast track but this seems way better.

you get this done before hacking into the rusty bits right ?????     What is the approximate cost please.

Glen



#55 _sloffador_

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Posted 14 January 2014 - 03:35 PM

Yeh you have to reseal everything properly again

This bloke who did this has just set up a new facility and has re-done the solutions so you better do some homework on who does it where your from

Downside is ive heard that things don't go so good if the dip is not nuetralised properly

The cost was 2K for the bare shell and $200 per panel

And yes you get this done before touching anything because it shows up all the hidden secrets



#56 _mick74lh_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 04:41 PM

Interesting method. I've never seen anyone use that but it looks to have worked amazingly. Bloody good shell too! It honestly looks like a brand new shell on the production line.

 

When you factor in the time it would take to strip everything by hand that 2K seems like good value to me.

 

Keen to see the rest of your project unfold.



#57 _sloffador_

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 08:26 PM

Believe me its clean but its far from perfect

Photos don't show up the the little dents and knocks

But at least its straight, yeh and it would have taken me a year to strip it by hand unless I gave up working so the price was cheap to me

But the best part no rust


Edited by sloffador, 16 January 2014 - 08:37 PM.


#58 N/A-PWR

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 03:30 PM

Hi Peter,

 

How much does it cost to Chemical Dip a Torana, these day's?

 

 

seems like a great option for a Rusty Torana, like my RAT.



Great, Clean Project Build



#59 _sloffador_

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 07:00 PM

Hey Dave 

It is a clean way to do it

But it seems like a lot of people need convincing

Any way it cost me 3.2k to do shell, doors, bonnet and boot

By the way car is looking good at this stage

And is there any one over there doing dipping

Cheers Peter



#60 N/A-PWR

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 07:07 PM

Thank's Peter,

 

Is a higher price than I was imagining, but like you said, it would take a year to do the same job manually.

 

I will do a bit of Hunting around tomorrow and find out who is doing Chemical dipping.



#61 Covert

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 08:13 AM

Lucky bugger, no rust, shell looks tops

#62 _sloffador_

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Posted 08 November 2016 - 09:47 PM

Well approx three years down the track

All body work completed

Pics and update to come



#63 HIBERN8

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Posted 09 November 2016 - 01:45 AM

Looking forward to it!

#64 _sloffador_

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Posted 14 November 2016 - 06:05 PM

Photo's won't upload

Does anyone else have problems



#65 _sloffador_

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:29 PM

Have lots of pics
So i'll start with these ones
They may not be in any particular order of the build but that don't matter

 



#66 _sloffador_

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 08:50 PM

A few more pics
It also helps when your mate doing the repairs ows a tilt tray

 



#67 _sloffador_

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Posted 16 November 2016 - 09:02 PM

Front suspession ready
Recut and cleaned up the rear gaurds which were a bit rough when I got car

 



#68 _sloffador_

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Posted 20 November 2016 - 01:05 PM

Ive had this sitting in my shed for at least the last five or six years
My mate who built it for me had it sitting in his shed
Said it would go good in my car
Ok so he pulled it to bits and found out it had yella terra L34 spec heads
Rebuilt the motor to a 330 stroker 
Got excited
Was tired of tripping over it so I put it in to have a look

 



#69 _parsons5000_

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 08:14 AM

good job mate , take u awhile to fit the kframe to the body ?



#70 _sloffador_

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 04:48 PM

you'd probably laugh at me how I did it

But within an hour it was in



#71 LXCHEV

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 06:24 PM

Great progress, looking sweet.

#72 _parsons5000_

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 08:54 PM

How u install the front . I'm about to tackle mine soon

#73 _sloffador_

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Posted 21 November 2016 - 09:39 PM

I just picked up the front and wheeled k frame under

I used a couple of step ladders with a length of rhs and a block and tackle

A floor jack a a jockey wheel bolted to the gearbox makes life easy



#74 _sloffador_

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Posted 04 December 2016 - 01:26 PM

Need some help
Fitted a new brake booster and it touches rocker covers
Checked all measurments and motor seems to be sitting in the rirght position
Maybe wrong engine mounts, not sure I put them on about 5 years ago
Any ideas would be appreciated 

 



#75 koalasprint

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Posted 13 December 2016 - 07:49 AM

Have a close look at your engine mounts and make sure that the engine is sitting on both of them evenly and all the way down. (Try to see the holes without the bolts installed.) It is very easy to have one or both sides catching and hooked up too high. Also worth looking at the mounts to make sure that they are Torana or HQ. Google or searching this forum should be able to help you identify them.






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