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Mid-Life Crisis --- Better Late Than never

Started by _Mid Life Crisis_ , Sep 28 2013 10:30 PM

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104 replies to this topic

#26 _sloffador_

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Posted 02 November 2013 - 01:46 PM

I think the treatment is called lanigaurd but I will check

Ive got my build thread going at the same time

be interesting to see how the two cars that have been dipped at the same place turn out

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#27 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 09:55 AM

Here is the Answer I got from RECOAT

The rust protection coating is created by resubmerging the car in the rust removal solution (which is a phosphoric solution that has a rust inhibitor in it) for a short amount of time, pulling the vehicle back out then allowing it to dry with the solution still on the vehicle. This is what creates the coating that is left on your vehicle which prevents surface rust. The sills will still need to be coated on the inside with some type of cavity fax, fish oil or your rust bullet to prevent water from washing off the coating in the sills. The coating is water soluble. Each paint restoration shop has their own procedures that they follow.

Still use rule of thumb of clean hands when working with bare metal and only sand areas to be repaired don’t sand the whole vehicle as the coating will be sanded off.

The car is fully submerged in the water based solution therefor everywhere air can get to within the vehicle so can the solution.

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#28 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 07:05 PM

Coming off the trailer with all the correct WH&S procedures

Attached Files

IMG_02041.JPG 414.48K 9 downloads
IMG_02031.JPG 395.62K 9 downloads

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#29 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 07:08 PM

Now at rest with my trusty LAB TECH ready to pounce

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IMG_02061.JPG 416K 7 downloads

Edited by Mid Life Crisis, 04 November 2013 - 07:09 PM.

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#30 fenz

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Name:Aaron
Location:South Australia
Car:LJ 2 door and UC V8 4door
Joined: 26-July 09

Posted 04 November 2013 - 08:30 PM

Certainly is a good way to start a project.
No hidden surprises on a bare shell.

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#31 _Red One_

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 06:48 PM

Looks great, are you going to show a pic of the rubber parts?

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#32 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 07:39 PM

Really hard with my camera to get a good pic but this is the best I cold do. In deliberately gone around and removed all plastic and rubber components but managed to leave the two rubber stops on the Glovebox, some plastic hose clamps in the engine bay and the plastic sleeves in the rear seat centre hinge points. They are all now really claen. Maybe there will be some long term degredation or hardening, we will see I guess. At the moment they look very schmick

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IMG_02011.JPG 420.56K 8 downloads
IMG_02101.JPG 216.56K 5 downloads

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#33 308mate

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Name:scott
Location:Wootton - between Newcastle & Taree, NSW
Car:76 SS hatch (Royal Plum, Chevron Chamois interior), HQish Van (Orchid Metallic)
Joined: 19-May 09

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 07:58 PM

Certainly looks a good way to start a project. Do you have to clean off the coating before primer is applied?

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#34 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 05 November 2013 - 08:37 PM

The advice I have received is that it just requires the normal prep (prepsol of similar) , nothing specific, the coating is water soluble.

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#35 notna

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Car:1976 LX L32 SL/R
Joined: 21-May 07

Posted 05 November 2013 - 11:02 PM

That bare metal looks fantastic! WOW! Talk about a clean preparation for paint. I had the outer of a car sodablasted a few years back and that was nice, but I can just imagine how much nicer it would be to prep a totally clean car!

If I did a paint strip like that, I would cavity wax it hardcore after painting. Looking forward to the resto progress

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#36 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 07:22 PM

Well its been a while and so I thought I should provide an update. After about 6 weeks I noticed that the car develoed a heap of surface rust, contrary to advice . To there credit they re-dipped the car at not cost and I paid for them to put the car and panels into etch primer to prevent the same thing happening again

Surface Rust

IMG_0215.JPG 123.36K 6 downloads

All Clean and ready for work

Chassis Alignment 050.JPG 145.56K 7 downloads

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#37 Rockoz

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Name:Rob
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Posted 20 October 2014 - 09:50 PM

How did you go with the straightness of the chassis?

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#38 _greg2240_

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Posted 20 October 2014 - 10:06 PM

great looking hatch, what are your future plans for it, ie: running gear, body etc.also did the dipping strip off the surface rust etc? cheers Greg

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#39 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 02:57 PM

Rockoz, took it up the Macquires at Bomaderry and had them put it on the laser aligner..... turned out it only needed a very slight tweek in the front drivers side. god news :party: Now I can move forrwrad with confidence that she is all straight. Will post my progress on replacing the plenum with a donor soon.... busy welding .... YEAH

Edited by Mid Life Crisis, 24 October 2014 - 02:57 PM.

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#40 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 03:04 PM

Hey Greg... all surface rust gone. Plans are to return it a stock 253 4 speed with more or less standard running gear. Hopefully to look something like the old one I had 30 years ago

My Girlfriend of the time.... now my wife.... still got the wife but not the torry in the background

SUE & Torry.jpg 345.95K 5 downloads

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#41 LJGTR6

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Name:Steve
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Car:1977 LX SL 4 Door and 1973 LJ 2 Door
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Posted 25 October 2014 - 06:40 PM

Is that Persian sand?

steve

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#42 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 26 October 2014 - 07:48 AM

Yes Steve.... that's the color I intend for the project

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#43 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 02:41 PM

Well have been making slow progress on repairs around the Plenum Chamber, I did get a donor front cut from another forum member, "Neils LX" . Thanks Neil...

It has taken me a while but I finally got around to removing the Plenum from Neils Donor

IMG_0206.JPG 151.45K 4 downloads

S well as that I have done some work on the Drivers and Passenger Side frames that the Plenum gets welded back down onto at the bottom of the A Pillar

Before

Plenum Chamber Removal 007.JPG 389.02K 3 downloads

After

IMG_0205.JPG 105.34K 3 downloads

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#44 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 03:10 PM

With the Donor plenum removed I tossed up how to fill in the holes from cutting the spot welds.

IMG_0208.JPG 148.03K 3 downloads

Finally decided to punch out some 10mm disc from 1.6 mm sheet and drill the holes in the Plenum out to 11 mm. Then MIG weld the discs back into the Holes and Flapper Disc the overfill

IMG_0213.JPG 125.24K 4 downloads

Finished Welding up holes..... pretty happy with the way it came up

Bottom Plenum Holes Filled (2).JPG 133.03K 2 downloads

Bottom Plenum Holes Filled (4).JPG 58.36K 3 downloads

Bottom Plenum Holes Filled (1).JPG 155.61K 3 downloads

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#45 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 03:13 PM

Next Job will be to clean up the Plenum and put some SKS products all over it (except where it is spot welded back in, Weld through Primer for that).

Don't want someone to be doing this again in another 30 yrs

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#46 _cool72_

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 07:08 AM

Good work Dave. When I look at your pics, I would swear that I am looking at mine.
Same colour, same rust, same problem areas. I am at about the same stage.
I have nominated mine for a Fe2O3 model
Glen

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#47 _Mid Life Crisis_

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 05:22 PM

Fe 203 ?????

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#48 _GMH-001_

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 07:08 PM

chemical formula for rust lol

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#49 _sting_

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 07:56 PM

Hi dave i was looking at your photos and i was thinking to myself ive seen that face before then i had a look where your from and guess what im in nowra to, have to catch up one day and have a look i like what your doing im going to keep a keen eye on your progress .