104 replies to this topic

[Kevrev]

Hi Steve the steel outer casing is part of the bushing and needs to come out.

Cheers Kevin

[Mid-life Crisis]

Well I have got the work underway... Front end rebuilt and rust repairs underway... Very happy... 

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•  Resized_20210324_094756.jpeg   202.95K   6 downloads
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•  Resized_20210324_095332 (1).jpeg   253.04K   6 downloads

[Mid-life Crisis]

However we have discovered that in a past life the car was hit hard midships on the drivers side. Need to get the dimension from passenger side pinch weld to driver side pinch weld just at the height of the door catch on th b pillar. Hopefully the picture below shows the height and position for the measurement. If someone can take a measurement for me it would appreciated

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•  pich weld.jpg   28.75K   8 downloads

[Cook]

Hi David. Does this help? Cheers Ron

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•  Measurement at Door catch.jpg   65.73K   6 downloads

[Mid-life Crisis]

Sorry

 

Hi David. Does this help? Cheers Ron

Sorry Ron, Was after the distance from Pinch weld Passenger Side to Pich weld Driver Side..... at the height of the door catch... My dedscription wasn't the best

[Mid-life Crisis]

Can anyone help me to identify if the removable steering column panel at the Fire wall (see Picture) has a gasket. I cannot locate it in any parts lists I have. If it does have a Gasket... where can I buy one

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•  SH10493.jpg   141.06K   9 downloads

[Mid-life Crisis]

Hi David. Does this help? Cheers Ron

This might make more sense Ron

 

Pinch Weld to Pinch Weld

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•  pinch weld.jpg   940.94K   9 downloads

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 27 March 2021 - 08:01 PM.

[mick_in_oz]

David, isn't that what Ron provided? 1400mm? or that's how I read it.

[Mid-life Crisis]

Mick, yes... I just had a better look at Ron's Picture... Realised that it just had the vinyl cover over the actual metal.. that is exactly what I was after...

Thanks Ron

[Cook]

No worries David.  The measurement is actually metal to metal (painted black) which may make it look like vinyl.  I've got my fingers crossed for you.  With the firewall plate for the steering column I don't believe there is a gasket that goes around the perimeter of the plate.  I always believed it was just filled with seam sealer but I could be wrong.  Cheers Ron

[axistr]

Holden just used non hardening sealer for the firewall column plate, same as the early windscreen sealers.

[Mid-life Crisis]

No worries David.  The measurement is actually metal to metal (painted black) which may make it look like vinyl.  I've got my fingers crossed for you.  With the firewall plate for the steering column I don't believe there is a gasket that goes around the perimeter of the plate.  I always believed it was just filled with seam sealer but I could be wrong.  Cheers Ron

Thanks Ron,   The Guy doing the panel and rust repairs for me is confident that it can be fixed, he just wanted to get a reference point so he can work out how big a hammer he needs.. lolol....the Passenger side is fine so he will use that as a reference point

 

General opinion is that ther is not gasket so will look into the seam sealer or similar

Holden just used non hardening sealer for the firewall column plate, same as the early windscreen sealers.

 

Thanks

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 28 March 2021 - 09:55 AM.

[jaselx]

https://www.bunnings...-10266_p1090837
Butyl Mastic tape from Bunnings for steering column, top of front guards to inner guards and various other places.

[Mid-life Crisis]

https://www.bunnings...-10266_p1090837
Butyl Mastic tape from Bunnings for steering column, top of front guards to inner guards and various other places.

 

Thanks J

[Mid-life Crisis]

I have purchased a Tremec Magnum 6 speedbox from Mal Wood and will be fitting it to an LS2 to drop into my LX Hatch. I have seen lots of chatter about fitting the transmission into the Tunnel of my Hatch with and without cutting the tunnel. I don't really want to cut if it isn't nessesary. 

 

I have purchased the CAE LS Conversion kit which includes soft mounts and crossmember. I suspect, based on chatter, (regardless of what Mal assured me) may not be able to get to parralel with Diff Horizontal alignment without cutting

 

I am also have a custom Borg Warner Rear end manufactured

 

So I have come up with a plan that I think will work

 

First I will fit the engine and gearbox into the front end and fit it under the car in a position high enough for good tunnel clearance from the transmission. I anticipate that this will result in a decline angle front to back. I will measure that decline angle

 

Based on that decline, I will get the Diff angle to incline up (Back to Front) to match the Engine and Transmission decline angle, effectively putting them on the same horizontal plane.

 

This will mean I will need to get the mounting points on the rear end rotated around the shart to remain matched up to the Body Points for the arms and Suspension. Not a biggy given he will be adjusting the rear end to suit face to face width. 

 

This should also have the effect of reducing the Tail shaft decline angle from front to back as I will have lowered the Transmission Tailshaft attaching point and raised the Diff attaching point. Ending up with a result something like the second example in the attached picture. Pinion angles on the universals should also be close to zero

 

Have I missed anything????   I am sure I must have... seems tooooo simple

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•  Tailshaft.jpg   7.04K   19 downloads

[axistr]

My SLR has a T56 magnum box and I didn't cut the tunnel. I haven't got the perfect drive shaft angle but I don't get any vibrations either. With full fuel I can at times get a slight rumble on overrun. It can also depend on the engine mounts, if the engine sits a bit higher than normal you might struggle to get it right. I probably should have taken a fraction out of the floor and raised the box by 20mm to get the angle perfect. But for the same reason, I had a perfect rust free body and didn't want to chop up the floor. 

[claysummers]

As long as the tilt isn’t too much. They usually point the pinion down a degree or two as it turns upward when torque is applied, hence slapper bars, caltracs etc. More the case with drag cars I suppose. Hopefully you can fiddle the front mounts down to improve things, subject to clearance. Lowering the motor helps handling as well.


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[bat 53]

most pinion angles are at 4 deg 

tail shaft can't be straight 

[Mid-life Crisis]

most pinion angles are at 4 deg 

tail shaft can't be straight 

 

I thought that a Zero Pinion Angle would be the perfect solution ... to give you a direct strainght through connection... regardless of how hard it might be to acheive...... interested in why it cannot be straight.... ???   everything I have read indicates 4 degrees or less to be the goal...

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 05 April 2021 - 10:33 AM.

[VIXL34s]

Is that Persian sand?

steve

Is that Persian sand?

steve

Is that Persian sand?

steve

[LJ RB30]

I thought that a Zero Pinion Angle would be the perfect solution ... to give you a direct strainght through connection... regardless of how hard it might be to acheive...... interested in why it cannot be straight.... ??? everything I have read indicates 4 degrees or less to be the goal...

Cannot be straight as the needles in the uni won’t rotate.
Needles must rotate or they will impact the trunnions & caps in the same spot all the time leading to shorter life.

[Mid-life Crisis]

Cannot be straight as the needles in the uni won’t rotate.
Needles must rotate or they will impact the trunnions & caps in the same spot all the time leading to shorter life.

 

Thanks Trevor, That makes sense... What would be the ideal Pinion angle for an every day driver ??? Is two degrees down from the Transmission end and 2 degrees up on the Diff end ok??   or do I need more.....in your opinion....

Edited by Mid-life Crisis, 05 April 2021 - 01:25 PM.

[axistr]

I aim for a working angle at the front uni 1 1/2 -2 degrees tail shaft down from engine/transnission angle, and a working angle on the rear uni to pinion 1 1/2 -2 degrees. The diff pinion is usually slightly up to achieve a 1-2 degree rear uni working angle. 

[Mid-life Crisis]

I aim for a working angle at the front uni 1 1/2 -2 degrees tail shaft down from engine/transnission angle, and a working angle on the rear uni to pinion 1 1/2 -2 degrees. The diff pinion is usually slightly up to achieve a 1-2 degree rear uni working angle.

Thanks Lenny...

[LJ RB30]

I’m no professional but Yep as said ^^ basically aim for equal angles at either end (within reason) & more than 0.5 degrees to make the needles roll.
This is always good to watch too
https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

Edited by LJ RB30, 05 April 2021 - 02:54 PM.