^ Thanks, nice efforts.
I disagree with the proportions of the tail-gate angle and of course rear end length.
You have perhaps inadvertently replicated the mistakes of the old school black and white chop photo that Torananut posted on page 1.
Heath nailed it and very well spotted too. It’s a chopped image of two photos, before PS was around.
Such a thing can be made by taking one photo with a cam fixed to a tripod or whatever; of an LX sedan, then parking a H series wagon like a HQ in the same spot and taking the second image without moving the camera. Then cut and shut with scissors or a scalpel or something, then take another photo of the chopped image.
It never seemed right, the black and white one. The body work rear of the back tyres is of course standard sedan length for the sake of laziness / curiosity and is straight up not long enough. It’s ends up more 4-door hatch in look / feel etc. like a squished up 70’s Mazda 323 kinda look.
The tail-lights and rear ¾ view is difficult to picture and very easy to get all kinds of wrong. I believe that the little TD Gem had all of the above well and truly sorted. The issues there are of course, for starters, they are sic in their own right and not be hacked up imo. Next is obviously size, being more LC/LJ than they are LH/LX. They get upset balance wise with 8 cylinders up front, and the wheelbase is ridiculously short. Four stud wheel patterns, torque tubes, etc.
I remember the SM article in the old Expression Session. Several weeks earlier I had sketched and coloured a front ¾ view of a TD wags with blackouts paintwork, SLR flares and Dragway 4 spokes. I have raided my SM stacks recently but can’t locate the mag at the moment, and the picture I drew is long gone I think.
IMO the best match for panels, trim and glass is the VB Commo wags, and you can still get one owner examples for SFA really. To the point where you don’t know whether to graft the back onto an LH/LX, or the Torry front onto the Commo.
The H series wagons are IMO a dodgy hack job that looks rushed and fairly shithouse in terms of intention and integration as a model in their own right. They tried to coke-bottle the arse end TC Cortina style, but failed hard in both cases. The Corty at least appeared to have the effort put in.
I am going with custom CFRP panels on my own project, as weight reduction / rust rep. etc instead of obsessing over steel, welding, rust, repeat type of thing. With the experience from cloning all hanging panels I imagine things will be view in a different light afterwards.
Basically, the conclusion is that there is so much fking work in the cutting / shutting / hacking / wondering method that one would be quite better off from the start to simply design and build from the ground up, to suit either the same chassis or a modded HQ Tonner chassis / similar.
I figure start small, and would like to play around with a 1/10 scale model for the time being, something to do in winter etc. and with the benefits of getting a good feel for the design and being able to use it as an RC car, and basically inspiration as a living, moving concept image in 3D.
I have been modding 1/18 and 1/10 RCs like VKs, LXs and Dattos etc. for about a year now. I have moulding / casting supplies and pro sculpting clay etc. just waiting on a small toaster oven kinda thing due to clay being basically set (rock hard, unworkable) at room temp.
Will be nice to bounce a few ideas around here in any case.
Cheers
This is somewhat of a collective work-in-progress / mystery / XU2 / GTR/X / Unicorn sorta thing I spose.