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how to measure for caster on lx lh


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#1 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 04:17 PM

How can I measure without a wheel alignment machine the caster on my front end.
Im fine with camber and toe in. Just cant work out the caster. Should I have more shims and the front or back bolt?

#2 S pack

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 08:00 PM

More shims on the front bolt or less shims on the rear bolt will give more positive castor, however it's not that simple, as adding or removing shims to change the castor setting also affects the camber setting. So you have to add or remove differing thicknesses of shims from both front and rear bolts so as to change the castor setting without changing the camber setting.

 

How to actually measure the castor I do not know. I opt for the easy way out and leave it to the (so called) experts with the proper equipment.


Edited by S pack, 12 October 2013 - 08:00 PM.


#3 Toranamat69

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 08:25 PM

Castor is a bit trickier to measure as you don't just need a gauge to measure it but you also need an acurate way to turn the wheel 20 degrees each direction to take the measurement.



#4 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 12 October 2013 - 10:42 PM

Hmm may have to for the first time since starting the build. Let some1s hands touch my car. Whos best in the ballarat region for alignments???

#5 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 10:36 AM

You could buy a magnet/hub mount caster/camber gauge, make some toe plates and do it yourself..

 

I had a mate come over who used to be a front end,etc tech and still has an old magnet mount gauge, I made some plates and did the alignment on my car in the shed. No problem at all.

 

91082605_L.jpg



#6 Toranamat69

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 10:43 AM

Yeah that's what I use - just a different colour and brand - probably made the same place though.



#7 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 10:44 AM

The one I actually used had all the paint worn off, but works just fine :)



#8 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 11:24 AM

Awsome thanks jeff. Ill b looking for 1 of these asap

#9 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 11:27 AM

You can get them over here from a bunch of places, probably a fair bit cheaper than there I would "guess" at least, but if you were in a rush and didn't want to wait for the post, sure you can obviously get them there too.



#10 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:16 PM

So far none here on ebay. Ill prob have to find 1 from over there.
There are so many to pick from there. Just have to measure my wheel size to work out what size magnet bit I need.

#11 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 12:18 PM

Speedway motors, Summit, etc (even Amazon probably) here should all have them.  (Speedway has a nice selection of them for sure)

 

Some of them come with a couple of different sized adapters to suit different hubs.



#12 76lxhatch

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 01:30 PM

Just make up a guide to allow reasonably accurate turning of the wheels 20 degrees either way (as mentioned above). Measure camber at 20 degrees left and 20 degrees right, then multiply the difference by 1.5 for a pretty close measurement (good enough for general wheel alignment purposes). Don't forget to allow for positive and negative numbers correctly, e.g. the difference between +1 and -1 is 2.

#13 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 13 October 2013 - 01:35 PM

I made some plates from aluminum...they work nicely.  You can look around for an old set of proper alignment plates too (steel normally) but they were still sort of dear here. I made them out of some bits of left over plate, added a counter sunk pivot bolt in the center,little grease inbetween,  then marked out the angles on them and just rolled the car up onto them. No muss, no fuss :)



#14 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 04 February 2015 - 10:30 PM

back to this again,

 

what settings make it easier to steer?

also returns the steering to center better.?

im having troubles with both.



#15 Bigfella237

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Posted 04 February 2015 - 11:38 PM

Opposite sides of the same coin JAS, more (positive) caster will return to centre better but obviously make it harder to steer away from centre.



#16 76lxhatch

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 06:31 AM

If you're having trouble with both then I'd suggest checking/refreshing the steering components first. Its amazing how much difference a new steering column bearing or sorting out the rack can make to steering effort (when not in top shape to begin with).

#17 axistr

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 08:20 AM

Even with zero caster they should still return back to centre quickly due to the K.P.I (king pin inclination), if it doesn't, as above check the front end components. 



#18 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 11:15 AM

the only thing that is old and in need of help is the steering column, more so the upper bearing. everything else is new.

 

it does return to center just not as good as i thought it did 13 years ago.

also i just dont recall it being so heavy either,

i did have 13" wheels years ago. would the 18" make much difference?

 

what specs would you set it up at for just a street car.?



#19 76lxhatch

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Posted 05 February 2015 - 01:55 PM

Its a possibility, I've swapped over columns before and found a big improvement in the weight of the steering, would have been on 15s with 225s at that stage.

What specs would I set it up at...? +6.5 deg caster, -0.6 deg camber :driving:
Depends on what front end you have, how and where you drive, and what suits you. I'd suggest aiming for caster to be at least positive, maybe 2 degrees if you can get it. Camber around 1 negative maybe a touch less, don't put too much on.

#20 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 06:23 PM

finally got a gauge to check my caster.

 

as it sits i seem to have 1.5 dg on the right and 1.0 dg on the left. ( neg caster )

 

and approx 1.0 dg neg camber both sides.

 

by these numbers what should my steering be doing? 

 

im using one of these to measure and have pads to give me the 20dg both ways,

 

im aware i need to get this to a positive caster around 2.0dg i believe?

 

 

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#21 Bigfella237

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 07:16 PM

-1° camber is okay... -1.5° caster is terrible!

 

Negative caster will make the steering want to be anywhere but centre, the car must've been a handful to drive? Depending on the wheels and tyres you're running and whether you've got power steering, I'd say at least +2° caster, if it was me I'd be trying for a lot more than that but it will get real heavy to steer with a manual rack and big boots.

 

Nice looking gauge though, if it's not too rude a question, where'd ya get it and how much?



#22 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 07:55 PM

its a ebay gauge. $37 to my door..

 

im not sure how accurate it is.

 

just been out trying to get positive caster..

 

only playing with the rhs so far..

 

now for the stupid questions..

 

i have UC uca looking at them the ball joint is set more to the rear of the car.

 

spacing out the front bolt is trying to bring the ball joint to the front of the car?

 

so far i can get +1dg caster but that then gives me -1.5dg camber. this is with no spacers on the rear bolt ??

if i put spacers on the rear bolt camber only get worse.

 

 

+2dg caster with -1 camber just doesnt seem to be possible?

 

am i missing something? 



#23 _76lxJAS_

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 08:10 PM

looking at the gauge above mine. the + and - are at opposite ends for caster readings ??

 

mine is for doing both but im guessing for camber the + and - are correct.

for caster do i treat the - as +???



#24 Bigfella237

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 08:11 PM

Moving the top ball joint backward (by adding shims to the rear bolt) increases positive caster and unfortunately (as you've found) also increases negative camber.

 

I would start with no shims at all on the front UCA bolt and however many you can safely get behind the rear bolt, it's a question of balancing positive caster against negative camber and hopefully finding a happy medium.

 

Does this car have HQ spindles on it? If so you've inherited about a degree and a half of negative camber just from the stub axle change too.



#25 Bigfella237

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Posted 16 March 2015 - 08:18 PM

looking at the gauge above mine. the + and - are at opposite ends for caster readings ??

 

mine is for doing both but im guessing for camber the + and - are correct.

for caster do i treat the - as +???

 

Yeah, sounds like the gauge might be reading backwards, or maybe you're reading it backwards, or maybe it got messed up when they translated it from Chinese? :P

 

I was just thinking, it's a pity nobody has thought to build a laser pointer into these gauges so you could do toe as well, they'd sell twice as many of them I reckon!


Edited by Bigfella237, 16 March 2015 - 08:19 PM.





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