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#1 Stinga

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 06:24 PM

Has anyone heard anything about this stuff, or used it??

 

http://www.evanscool...e-products.html



#2 DMLC71

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:11 PM

On Foxtel last week, Ned from Wheelers and Dealers used it in a sports car and all the info he supplied was very interesting.
That was the first I heard of it
Daz

#3 Litre8

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:39 PM

Been around for quite a few years I think. Interested to hear on the pros and cons compared to water/'regular' coolant.



#4 _LHSL308_

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 08:55 PM

I have never heard of anything like this before, wonder what its worth?



#5 N/A-PWR

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 09:23 PM

 

Has anyone heard anything about this stuff, or used it??

 

Nice Stinga,

 Would it be about $130 for the final 3.8 litres? Dave I


Edited by TORYPOWER, 28 October 2013 - 09:24 PM.


#6 Stinga

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 09:32 PM

 
 

 

Nice Stinga,

 Would it be about $130 for the final 3.8 litres? Dave I

Provided the system is not left open to the atmosphere or accidentally contaminated with water it will last the life time of the engine. Forget longlife, Evans is 4life!



#7 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 28 October 2013 - 10:06 PM

There is also an similar product made in Australia.

 

Liquid Intelligence Waterless Coolant
http://liquidintelligence115.com.au/

 

 

Evans Waterless Coolant
http://www.evanscool...e-products.html

http://www.evanscool...leno's-garage/1

http://www.evanscool...ge-revisited/40

 

I have been considering running it so I don't need an expansion tank. I also like the safety aspect of the cooling system not being pressurised.



#8 TerrA LX

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 07:25 PM

My cooling system functions fine with water.
Running distilled water is a must tho if you want a near perfect water based coolant.
AFIK it's near 100% glycol (plus what other additives)
I would never run straight coolant without water.
Glycol = flammable???


Higher running temps is one of the cons they fail to highlight.

Also, if you don't entirely clear your cooling system of water then their claims of zero steam pockets and corrosion protection is lost. Even they state that.

#9 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 08:07 PM

Ls2LxHatch post a YouTube vid on my thread and it was brilliant. They do mention that you need to get rid of water at least down to 8%, but they tell you how to do it. It is particularly good in a car that doesn't do a lot of km's and sis around a lot.
My only concern is that if your engine gets too hot what a age it will do. Mabe overheating/boiling is a god way of getting you to stop and pull over. However, they do say that your engine will run about 10 degrees cooler.
I am very much considering it

#10 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:22 PM

My cooling system functions fine with water.

Running distilled water is a must tho if you want a near perfect water based coolant.

AFIK it's near 100% glycol (plus what other additives)

I would never run straight coolant without water.

Glycol = flammable???

Higher running temps is one of the cons they fail to highlight.

Also, if you don't entirely clear your cooling system of water then their claims of zero steam pockets and corrosion protection is lost. Even they state that.

 


Liquid Intelligence 115 claim the cooling system will run cooler with their products.
 

It also represents a 30% increase in thermal efficiencies for pressured cooling systems when compared to all conventional coolants

 
 
Evans have a bet each way.
 

The operating temperature of the engine and coolant may increase slightly, by approximately 3-7 degrees. However the temperature inside the engine will be consistent and steam vapour will not be produced. i.e engines often run cooler with Evans Waterless Coolants.

 
 
Liquid Intelligence contains 30% Mono Ethylene Glycol , 60% Heat Dissipation Polymers and 10% Organic Inhibitors.
 
Premix coolant is around 30-50% Glycol.


Edited by ls2lxhatch, 29 October 2013 - 09:28 PM.


#11 rodomo

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 09:30 PM

PffffT! back in the day, my Ol' EH ran damn dam water! Holden part No. 7354481! :tongue4:



#12 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 10:17 PM

This makes absolutely no sense whatsoever to me. I have to run thermostats in my engines to make them run warm enough, why would I care about a product that claims to make the engine run cooler. I don't want it to run cooler!

Steam pockets? I have, um, lets see, oh yeah zero problems with steam pockets. So even if this super-piss forms 6000% less steam pockets then that's an improvement of (pokes at calculator) uh, zero. Corrosion? Well, most of the cast iron stuff I come across has lasted quite well for over maybe 40 years with no more than (often questionable) water. So I reckon I can keep filling them from the tap (with a dash of cheap glycol when it's cold) and they'll see me out. It's cheap, I can get it anywhere and it's performance is perfectly satisfactory.

 

I always think you should spend your time and money where it will give the most benefit - I'll happily pay money for another 10cfm, or for a good manifold, or for something to stop my crank wriggling like a snake. But super-coolant? Not even a lousy dollar.


Edited by oldjohnno, 29 October 2013 - 10:19 PM.


#13 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 10:24 PM

But its super cool.......ant.



#14 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 10:42 PM

But its super cool.......ant.

 

And a solution to a problem that for most people doesn't even exist.

 

Ever noticed how many of the posts about overheating problems are from people who have binned the factory components (that generally Just Work) and have fitted some shit-hot 7 pass aluminium abortion and a mickey-mouse electric pump? Horsepower-per-dollar? About 0.



#15 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 10:51 PM

Yep. Though i did bin my nice 3 core copper (actually a mate borrowed it and never returned it.......he did pay me for it after 12 months or so so still a mate) so now i have an alloy rad in the good car.....Have yet to see the temp guage move far above where the thermostat is with this jigger.....I didnt select the flashest on the market though....Just the one i thought would work best.

 

Cheers.



#16 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 29 October 2013 - 11:17 PM

There are a couple of factors about the Evans coolant that appeal to me as I have an alloy engine with an alloy radiator.

No need to change the coolant ever.
No pressure in the cooling system. Safer and no need for an expansion tank.
No electrolysis. Evans Waterless Coolants are non-conductive.
No corrosion.

12L of 5 year coolant is around $150
12L of Evans is around $270.

It doesn't seem like a huge investment if it delivers on the above.

If you have a fresh motor to put in then it is just a matter of choosing which coolant you fill with.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 29 October 2013 - 11:22 PM.


#17 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 05:40 AM

I agree Andy. Just cose some pele choose to leave there car engines fom the stone age shouldn't mean that others can't update and improve theirs. Leave it standard cast iron with 10bhp, enjoy, I will take the upgrade and look into all avenues with an open mind.
That's my choice and not a rant!!!

#18 76lxhatch

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 06:25 AM

I don't want it to run cooler!

... water... It's cheap, I can get it anywhere and it's performance is perfectly satisfactory.

My thoughts exactly.



I don't really see any of the above points as actual benefits, but for the 1% who may and are willing to pay dearly for it (including cooling system changes to suit), fine. But be careful... as with many 'miracle' products, they seem to be advertising the advantages of their product as a fix-all; no amount of super-coolant is going to be a workable band-aid for a cooling system that doesn't work to begin with.

#19 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 07:16 AM

I agree Andy. Just cose some pele choose to leave there car engines fom the stone age shouldn't mean that others can't update and improve theirs. Leave it standard cast iron with 10bhp, enjoy, I will take the upgrade and look into all avenues with an open mind.
That's my choice and not a rant!!!

 

Stone age engines making 10hp? Dammit you got me! Seems I can't fool people into thinking my fleet of stock-standard 161s are state-of-the-art any longer.

 

Obviously plain water isn't going to cut it for an aluminium engine. But I'm pretty sure you don't have to spend $150 for something that will. Anyhow take the upgrade and bask in the benefits. One question though: suppose in a year or so some other marketing company advertises a product that performs 17.5% better again? Are you gonna re-upgrade? If not why not? I'm genuinely curious about the logic involved.



#20 myss427

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 08:49 AM

I'm going to give it a try very soon, as big blocks are well known for running on the hotter side. Mine runs ok in normal circumstances, but idleing over 20 minutes when caught in traffic you can't keep your eyes off the temp gauge! For piece of mind I think its worth a go.



#21 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 10:14 AM

Your engine gets warm in traffic? You could increase the fan flow and solve the problem or you could try some magic water and see what happens.

 

I can't look at this thread any more. The very special logic is killing me. I think I need a holiday.



#22 myss427

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 11:49 AM

I have the biggest Serc fans I can fit in the available space, but big blocks with big cams and compression generate a lot of heat in the engine bay.



#23 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 11:57 AM

Obviously plain water isn't going to cut it for an aluminium engine. But I'm pretty sure you don't have to spend $150 for something that will.

 
 
What coolant would you run in a LS2? (Coolant specification is GM6277M, Capacity is 12L)
 
How much would is cost over 5 years?
 
 
The $150 estimate was based on 3 x 5L Nulon red long life (5 yr coolant) at $48.95 ea at Supercheap. I chose a 5 yr coolant to make it a reasonable comparisome to a lifetime coolant. It turns out I had the price for the Nulon concentrate not the Nulon premix so it should have been 3 x $31.75 = $95.25.
 
 
 
The following coolants are 5 year coolants that meet he requirements of GM6277M.
 
3 x 5L Nulon Red Long Life  at $31.75 ea = $95.25
 
3 x 5L Tectaloy  VPlus Orange at $66.50 each = . $199.50

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 30 October 2013 - 12:04 PM.


#24 WhiteA9XS

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 12:36 PM


waste of money , $15.00 gets you a bottle of redline water wetter , as good as it gets and if you decide to take the radiator out or remove the engine just add another bottle .

#25 _LS2 Hatch_

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Posted 30 October 2013 - 01:17 PM

A decision on whether or not to use the product shouldn't be made by our comments. Watch the Jay Leno youtube vid or read the website completely. From there make a fair and educated decision. And in all honesty, that comment is not made to create conflict.

If you have an engine that sits around alot of the time, and is aluminium, it is well worth the investigation. There will always be good and balanced arguments both ways. It always comes down to what you believe will be the best for your circumstance. 

I was worried about mine have overheating issues. most worked engines that I am aware of do when sitting in traffic. As pointed out by someone else, there are always options and more than one way to skin a cat.

saying all that, I honestly believe that all products are worth the investigation if relevant to you. Oldjohnno, you obviously have your opinion, and you have the right to it, BUT, given it's your OPINION and not fact, I have the right to reject it.

Each to their own.

Stiga asked a question, and by god he opened a can of worms. That's great IN MY OPINION!!






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