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1jz-2jz engine conversion into LC LJ Torana.

Started by _waddingtons_ , Nov 14 2013 02:52 PM

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123 replies to this topic

#51 _000lj_

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 08:55 PM

which ever way you go there is heaps of work that needs doing to fit it properly but after doing two I can say its well worth the effort

go the jz

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#52 gtrboyy

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Posted 20 November 2013 - 11:22 PM

Yeah mate having an lc & knowing those engine bays all too well it looks like world full of hurt having engine sit so high.

Saw Mark's lj years ago when trying to unsuccessfully book my car in for work...he had just got the n/s 2j in the bay...well thought out & fair bit of work put into it to do properly.One day I'll check it out again to see how it is now & their black car.

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#53 madtoranajzedded

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Name:Maz
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Posted 21 November 2013 - 11:00 AM

its a full credit to him and he says hes a backyarder and a good one i must say,he does this on a budget,well its a big budget lol,man that car has one smik engine bay and you can see frock all wiring,keen to see some pics rowy of your handy work ,if you have pics filed ,go to more option down on corner then go to browse ,double click on photo,then atach file.then add to post .then apply post,keen to see some pics

jason

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#54 lakeside

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 03:48 PM

which ever way you go there is heaps of work that needs doing to fit it properly but after doing two I can say its well worth the effortgo the jz

Pictures please.

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#55 _000lj_

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Posted 21 November 2013 - 09:07 PM

yep iv got heaps of pics ill see how I go I just have to transfer them into the computer from my phone not real sure how to do
that
the engine is out of the car at the moment so I can get some pics of the tunnel and steering and mounts I have some pics of the
new oil pic up I made last week

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#56 madtoranajzedded

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Name:Maz
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Posted 22 November 2013 - 12:49 PM

The Castlemaine Rod Shop have been working on a 1JZ / 2JZ Conversion at the moment for Standard Torana front ends and for our Torana I.F.S kits.

Please check out all the pic's on our facebook page.

https://www.facebook...05313079&type=1

hi wads.would like to know whether you guys could modify the front k frame to get the motor low with engine mounts with it,and whether it could pass for registration,i think that you will find that alot of people would rather go this way than havin the motor perched up like that,and would most likely alieviate some probs with firewall and tunnel,but not entirely,your thoughts on this would be appreciated

cheers

jason

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#57 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 09:08 AM

been doin some thinking,there is another reason for having your motor low,is it the case where if you have the motor higher than the radiator it could cause air to get trapped in the cylinder head chamber and can create hot spots in head.they say you have to bleed the the air out,how does that work,is there some kind of valve that goes on the water neck with a line running somewhere,anyone have pics or know more about that setup,did you have that prob rowy

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#58 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 09:37 PM

couple of pics of the car

another pic

100mm intercooler

Attached Files

photo (2).JPG 267.52K 12 downloads
photo.JPG 261.94K 10 downloads
photo (3).JPG 252.52K 4 downloads

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#59 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 09:39 PM

some steering mods

Attached Files

photo (7).JPG 190.66K 11 downloads

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#60 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 09:43 PM

nice pics there two knuckles on steering rowy,that manifold looks

the goods,huge,did ya move the steering over much from the firewall

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#61 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 09:51 PM

nice pics there two knuckles on steering rowy,that manifold looks

the goods,huge,did ya move the steering over much from the firewall

intercooler takes up the room ,whats the measurement from radiator support panel to water pump,get a 3 core radiator in there,i like the colour of the beast,very tidy

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#62 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:03 PM

yeah steering has to be moved to clear engine and exhaust that's why theres a rose joint being used, I have moved it from where it is for more clearance but this is only my set up
other people have done it differently just depends on your mounts and sump being used, I bought the sump/oil pick up of a guy
thinking it
would save me some time on making a sump/oil pick up but it was a pile of shit and I had to remake every thing so it would work

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#63 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:09 PM

there is enough room to fit a decent radiator and thin thermo,s the radiator can be offset in the support panel
if you have a radiator core no wider than 550 just remove the side mounts and reweld them half inch back on the core

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#64 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:11 PM

i see the other knuckle,sorry didnt look at all the pic,ok i see where you have made a bracket for the first knuckle,great job,took thet lip off the firewall.

piping looks tight see why the steerings moved over,mmm booster ,under dash no not legal,i wanted to put a dual diaphram booster in for 4wheel disc brakes,what the friggin hell am i gonna do there.

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#65 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:16 PM

im going to be using a vh40 remote booster under the r/h guard they work really well have used them in the past

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#66 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:20 PM

that was a rear sump having prob clearing the xmember so u cut the sump to suit?was lookin at pwr radiators ,man this is alot of friggin around.got pics of engine mounts

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#67 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:23 PM

discs on rear rowy?

frock im askin questions,i need to see this in the flesh

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#68 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:23 PM

defiantly won't fit a double brake booster in there that's for sure depends what brakes your using but you can run two boosters
if you wont but if you have hq front discs boosted with a vh40 and commodore rear discs un boosted set up, if you jump on the
anchors it will put you through the windscreen if you havnt got a seat belt on belive me lol

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#69 lakeside

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:27 PM

You need to use a boosters for the F&R with 4WD's.

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#70 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:34 PM

lol.didnt want to run two much plumbing for my liking,the vl v8 ran just one booster and had 4w disc,i wanted to go that way

lol.didnt want to run two much plumbing for my liking,the vl v8 ran just one booster and had 4w disc,i wanted to go that way

if i go aspirated on gas i should be right

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#71 _000lj_

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:35 PM

shit im slow typing but im getting there,yes you need to use a rear sump,front sump wont fit if you want a cross member
im using the original aluminium mounts on the engine with escort or Cortina mounts cant remember which one as one Is higher
than the other I use the lower of the two then mounts are made on the cross member to suit.i have seen this done using original
torana mounts with custom plates made on the engine that works good also pwr can supply radiator and move your mounting points
you just need to talk to them with you measurements

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#72 lakeside

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:42 PM

lol.didnt want to run two much plumbing for my liking,the vl v8 ran just one booster and had 4w disc,i wanted to go that way

if i go aspirated on gas i should be right

You will if you want it engineered?

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#73 madtoranajzedded

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Posted 26 November 2013 - 10:45 PM

cool, thanks rowy for a bit of a geezer of your big job,me bell housing to mate the 2 speed glide arrives tomorrow,still scouting for a rear sump,askin engineer tomorrow if i can modify the xmember for clearance for the sump if i get the nod i will go that way.