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Brake warning light allways on?

Proportioning valve prob?

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#1 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 03:08 PM

The Brake Warning light on the S.L.R is on all the time, I have just the Normal Drums on the rear and Hoppers 290mm brakes upfront, the brakes have been bled twice and my Brake warning light is still on all the time?. I do recall some time back I stupidly let the brake fluid get really low in the Master Cylinder ,then found out I had a leaking Wheel Cylinder on the rear, this was all fixed some time ago( replaced both Wheel Cylinders,when hoppers were fitted) and that light is still on.

 

If I pull the Brake warning Wire off the Proportioning valve the light does go out,so theres a problem with the brakes, somewhere?, I don't know if theres an issue with the Proportioning valve itself, maybe that sensor in it is buggered?. I was told at Covs today they think that you cant buy the Proportioning valves anymore??...



#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 03:16 PM

You can get rebuild kits for the prop valves.

 

I have two coming.

 

When you bleed the brakes it generally puts the prop valve in the "failure" state, ie moves the piston thing so it completes the circuit.

 

You should be able to remove the nut ontop that the wire goes onto, and move the piston back to the neutral position after bleeding the brakes to solve this.

 

Cheers. 



#3 dattoman

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 03:17 PM

Have you reset the switch since you did your changes and bled it up ?

 

Remove switch... stab pedal a few times hard.. might reset the switch back to the middle... refit switch

 

If any fluid leaks from switch hole its time to get the valve rebuilt



#4 lxsstorana

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 04:06 PM

There is also a switch (inside the car) at the top of the brake pedal.  If this comes loose, the lights may stay on.

 

It has two wires going  to it and the black button sort of looks like the interior like door button.

 

Could be the cause of your problem.



#5 hanra

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 05:36 PM

That would be the switch fort he brake lights. The OP is having an issue with the brake warning light. On LH it's the same circuit as the park brake warning light. As others have said the brake warning switch will need to be reset.

#6 N/A-PWR

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 05:42 PM

take the wire off and light should go out, is the sender like an oil pressure sender? if so, just put a new sender in. Dave I



#7 _LHSL308_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:08 PM

Just do what Brad and datto said to do. You need to reset the switch on the proportioning valve by undoing the nut which holds the switch in the valve. Undo it out about 5mm then screw it back in and connect the wire back up. I had to do this about 4 times when I done all my brakes a couple of months ago.

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#8 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:26 PM

Thanks guys!!...I'll try reset that switch( this makes sense now) I'm guessing you have to bleed all the brakes again once you undo that nut on the sensor a bit?, like will a small amount of brake fluid come out when you undo that nut??.

 

 

The Sensor itself you can not buy( or so im told) only a Rubber seal repair kit for the Proportioning valve



#9 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:27 PM

THere should be no fluid in the switch well, and pulling the switch out should not cause any air to get into the brake lines.

 

As datto said, if theres fluid there its rebuild time for the prop valve. Contact Datto for the required stuff.

 

Cheers. 



#10 _LHSL308_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:47 PM

Thanks guys!!...I'll try reset that switch( this makes sense now) I'm guessing you have to bleed all the brakes again once you undo that nut on the sensor a bit?, like will a small amount of brake fluid come out when you undo that nut??.
 
 
The Sensor itself you can not buy( or so im told) only a Rubber seal repair kit for the Proportioning valve



No mate no fluid will come out and you dont have to bleed the brakes again, if you did bleed the brakes again you would have to reset the switch again more likely.

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#11 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:51 PM

I just #@$^%& it guys!, that Nut has never been removed ( ive had the car 16 years) I was struggling with it...The nut eventally came loose,when I was reefing on it hard,the spanner slipped and smashed the top plastic cone part of that Sensor!.No fluid came out though,LOL

 

 

My brother said he should have a spare one( are all the HQ ones etc the same?)



#12 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 06:55 PM

TMK yeah H series Holden and LH/LX/UC are basically all the same....Datto will confirm :D

 

I might have a spare, i'll have a look. 


Edited by Bomber Watson, 04 January 2014 - 06:55 PM.


#13 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 07:00 PM

Yep, have a spare complete prop valve here incl sender.

 

beside it was a LJ one, the sender looks remarkably similar without pullign them out.

 

Cheers. 



#14 _LHSL308_

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 07:57 PM

Yeah they can be quite tight, I had to use a ring spanner and just crack it with the tap of a hammer.

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#15 S pack

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 08:03 PM

I just #@$^%& it guys!, that Nut has never been removed ( ive had the car 16 years) I was struggling with it...The nut eventally came loose,when I was reefing on it hard,the spanner slipped and smashed the top plastic cone part of that Sensor!.No fluid came out though,LOL

 

 

My brother said he should have a spare one( are all the HQ ones etc the same?)

Yes, same brake fail switch.



#16 dattoman

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 10:07 PM

I just fucked it guys!, that Nut has never been removed ( ive had the car 16 years) I was struggling with it...The nut eventally came loose,when I was reefing on it hard,the spanner slipped and smashed the top plastic cone part of that Sensor!.No fluid came out though,LOL

 

 

My brother said he should have a spare one( are all the HQ ones etc the same?)

What nut were you trying to undo ?

You only had to undo the switch

 

Is it a black single pole switch or a brown twin pole

They do not interchange so you need to replace with the same as you take out. The valve bodies are different



#17 hanra

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Posted 04 January 2014 - 11:01 PM

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#18 _76S.L.R_

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Posted 05 January 2014 - 09:46 PM

Neil=  I was just trying to remove the Switch Via the Nut on the bottom of switch, nothing more..... it was stuck on there hard!.

 

The Switch is the Black / single Pole Switch, my brother's not been able to find one in his parts yet...


Edited by 76S.L.R, 05 January 2014 - 09:48 PM.





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