Rust Adjust
Edited by LX2DR, 22 October 2007 - 11:26 AM.
POR15 and Other Rust Convertors
Started by
Tiny
, Jul 05 2006 06:06 PM
92 replies to this topic
#26
LX2DR
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Posted 22 October 2007 - 11:16 AM
The product i used is called Rust Adjust, made by Mantek in Alexandria NSW.
Rust Adjust
Rust Adjust
#27
_just_matt_
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Posted 22 October 2007 - 10:06 PM
Ive used one made by Chemsearch, simply called Rust Converter.
Works realy well, and turns a dark greeny blue when dry.
I just wire brushed the rust and painted this on as a temporary fix on my landcruiser.
-matt
Works realy well, and turns a dark greeny blue when dry.
I just wire brushed the rust and painted this on as a temporary fix on my landcruiser.
-matt
#28
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Posted 23 October 2007 - 09:56 PM
I love POR15, but not the price. There is now an alternative. Cheaper, Australian owned company and basically the same stuff. I trying it out at the moment
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/
#29
LX2DR
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Posted 24 October 2007 - 02:01 PM
One thing's for sure, there are plenty of good options out their.
All giving the same end result
plenty of rust free Torrie's, gotta love that.
All giving the same end result
plenty of rust free Torrie's, gotta love that.
#30
_lj30et_
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Posted 18 November 2007 - 01:30 PM
Has anyone painted whole panels in POR 15?
Ive got 2 of the POR15 sample kits they sell and and a tin of the UV stable black top coat stuff they have and was thinking of stripping and painting one of the spare bootlids that i have in it to see how it would come up. I understand the stuff self levels and can be brushed on so might leave a decent finish and i dont thnk i would get any rust in it ever agin.
any thoughts or experiences?
Ive got 2 of the POR15 sample kits they sell and and a tin of the UV stable black top coat stuff they have and was thinking of stripping and painting one of the spare bootlids that i have in it to see how it would come up. I understand the stuff self levels and can be brushed on so might leave a decent finish and i dont thnk i would get any rust in it ever agin.
any thoughts or experiences?
#31
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 November 2007 - 11:03 PM
The POR15 website has lots of info.
http://www.ppc.au.com/
Read the directions carefully as POR15 is quite different to most other paints.
http://www.ppc.au.com/directions.htm
The UV stable Topcoat is only required if the item being painted will be exposed to the sun and you are not going to apply any other topcoat.
The panel beater who worked on my hatch is a POR15 distributor. POR15 was applied under the car, guards etc but not to surfaces that were going to be painted body colour.
http://www.ppc.au.com/
Read the directions carefully as POR15 is quite different to most other paints.
http://www.ppc.au.com/directions.htm
The UV stable Topcoat is only required if the item being painted will be exposed to the sun and you are not going to apply any other topcoat.
The panel beater who worked on my hatch is a POR15 distributor. POR15 was applied under the car, guards etc but not to surfaces that were going to be painted body colour.
#32
_studricho_
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Posted 08 December 2007 - 08:25 AM
I just finished doing a motorcycle tank that was heaps rusty inside and had lot's of sludge in it using the port 15 tank kit.
It cost me $65 for the kit and I'm very happy with the results. My only regret is that i didn't have compressed air to blow out the tank dry and i had to rely on a hair dryer which blew up.
I repaired the hair dryer, but the job would of turned out much better with compressed air. Make sure you allow plenty of time to do this process on a tank.
It cost me $65 for the kit and I'm very happy with the results. My only regret is that i didn't have compressed air to blow out the tank dry and i had to rely on a hair dryer which blew up.
I repaired the hair dryer, but the job would of turned out much better with compressed air. Make sure you allow plenty of time to do this process on a tank.
#33
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Posted 29 December 2007 - 10:24 PM
Hi just por 15 my whole inside inner guards engine bay etc. I have never used Por 15 before but am happy with the results. Thought i would send a picture of my floor. This stuff should protect her. Used Metal Ready product first before applying Por 15. Not a cheap product but quality product. Well we will see in 10 years LOL
Michelle
#34
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Posted 17 December 2008 - 10:47 AM
I just bought 1L of por-15 for $80.00.
I went with it cos it is a proven product and they say on the can "wont chip or crack" whereas others had things like "resists chipping" or "highly resistant to chipping" so i guess I`m saying do it once and if it did chip or crack its guaranteed for sure whereas some of the others seemed a bit ambiguous.
Anyway doing my entire frontend and diff; will post pics when done; hopefully this week.
M.
I went with it cos it is a proven product and they say on the can "wont chip or crack" whereas others had things like "resists chipping" or "highly resistant to chipping" so i guess I`m saying do it once and if it did chip or crack its guaranteed for sure whereas some of the others seemed a bit ambiguous.
Anyway doing my entire frontend and diff; will post pics when done; hopefully this week.
M.
#35
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Posted 17 December 2008 - 11:08 AM
oh and saw they have an exhaust paint rated to 1400 degrees, $80 for 500 ml, anyone used it?
Edited by Machine, 17 December 2008 - 11:12 AM.
#36
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 17 December 2008 - 12:48 PM
The panel beater I used on my hatch, who was a POR15 distributor has dropped POR15 and is now a distributor for KBS. The story I was told is that the chemist from POR15 and the Australian POR15 distributor are involved in the new company KBS. KBS have improved the POR15 formula which has not been changed for 30 years. The KBS products are cheaper than POR15 which has got even more expensive due to the A$.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 17 December 2008 - 12:49 PM.
#37
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Posted 19 December 2008 - 03:39 PM
saw that LS2 and it may be better, definitely cheaper, this is the bit that kinda swayed me to por-15
"tough coating that is tough to chip or scratch."
POR-15 states "wont chip or scratch" may be a technicality, but i would demand a refund if did chip or crack as its in writing.
Just my opinion, well see i guess, already spent the $$$
M.
"tough coating that is tough to chip or scratch."
POR-15 states "wont chip or scratch" may be a technicality, but i would demand a refund if did chip or crack as its in writing.
Just my opinion, well see i guess, already spent the $$$
M.
#38
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Posted 01 July 2009 - 03:36 PM
Forgot about this thread.
Did my front end and am very very happy with the result.
M.
Did my front end and am very very happy with the result.
M.
#39
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Posted 16 July 2009 - 11:40 PM
Nice thread and plenty of good ideas floating around.. Yes I will put in my 5 cents worth lol
Its good to see that everyone has the same idea, must mean we are doing something right!.
I wire brushed all Chunky rusty bits mostly in the hatch area then used commercial rust converter made by Emmer. Dads used it for 30+ years and swears by it. It worked beatifully, all rust was turned into black fluffy powder which was then wire brushed and cleaned up with vacume cleaner. A good wipedown with prepsole and then 2 coats of Acrylic primer (with zinc) to protect rust converted and bare metal panels. Now going to grind out and reweld the bad areas where rust used to be, a good sand then 2 pac primer. Ive been told that Acrylic primer doesnt get along very well with 2pac paint hence why its going to get the 2pac primer.
As for the POR15, a good friend of mine whos restoring a few cars at the moment has used it and absolutely loves it. Plans for the POR15? Use it for complete underbody, K Frame, wheel arches and the inside of the hatch. Hatch floor + anywhere else i can get it i.e. rear tail light area, up in the hatch hinge area, windscreen gully etc...
Few... Sorry about the essay, got a little excited...
Kosta
Its good to see that everyone has the same idea, must mean we are doing something right!.
I wire brushed all Chunky rusty bits mostly in the hatch area then used commercial rust converter made by Emmer. Dads used it for 30+ years and swears by it. It worked beatifully, all rust was turned into black fluffy powder which was then wire brushed and cleaned up with vacume cleaner. A good wipedown with prepsole and then 2 coats of Acrylic primer (with zinc) to protect rust converted and bare metal panels. Now going to grind out and reweld the bad areas where rust used to be, a good sand then 2 pac primer. Ive been told that Acrylic primer doesnt get along very well with 2pac paint hence why its going to get the 2pac primer.
As for the POR15, a good friend of mine whos restoring a few cars at the moment has used it and absolutely loves it. Plans for the POR15? Use it for complete underbody, K Frame, wheel arches and the inside of the hatch. Hatch floor + anywhere else i can get it i.e. rear tail light area, up in the hatch hinge area, windscreen gully etc...
Few... Sorry about the essay, got a little excited...
Kosta
#40
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Posted 26 November 2009 - 11:25 AM
I love POR15, but not the price. There is now an alternative. Cheaper, Australian owned company and basically the same stuff. I trying it out at the moment
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/
How's it workin' for ya so far?
s
#41
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Posted 19 December 2009 - 11:39 PM
Iv'e just used por 15 fuel tank repair kit.
I had rust on the inside at the bottom of the tank,
Its all been cleaned out and sealed with por 15.
I did want to fit a after market tank i repaired mine.
And also did the inside of fuel filler neck also.
Iam very happy with the product.
Cheers.
I had rust on the inside at the bottom of the tank,
Its all been cleaned out and sealed with por 15.
I did want to fit a after market tank i repaired mine.
And also did the inside of fuel filler neck also.
Iam very happy with the product.
Cheers.
#42
_gtr161s_
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Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:53 AM
The biggest problem I have with all rust convertors is there only working on the rust that you applied it too !..........what is happening to a panel that has rust behind it that you can't get to.
Also just a question on por15....how do you stop the contents from crusting. First i resealed the tin, big mistake as I needed a can opening to get the lid off then i tried there method of sealing the surface with plastic but it still skins over.
Any idea's ?
Also just a question on por15....how do you stop the contents from crusting. First i resealed the tin, big mistake as I needed a can opening to get the lid off then i tried there method of sealing the surface with plastic but it still skins over.
Any idea's ?
#43
_rogered_
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Posted 24 December 2009 - 04:59 AM
i put Glad rap sandwich film over the tin, before putting the lid back on
#44
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Posted 24 December 2009 - 08:20 AM
The biggest problem I have with all rust convertors is there only working on the rust that you applied it too !..........what is happening to a panel that has rust behind it that you can't get to.
I went to Bunnings and got half a litre of phosphoric acid....you water it down and put it in a spray bottle...then just spray it everywhere...you should be able to get in behind a lot of things...I sprayed a patch i welded and it still isn't rusty after 6 months exposed to the weather.
#45
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Posted 24 December 2009 - 09:55 AM
The biggest problem I have with all rust convertors is there only working on the rust that you applied it too !..........what is happening to a panel that has rust behind it that you can't get to.
I don't thin k that is the products fault, it is not magic, try drilling access holes or even cutting out and welding back in a patch to areas you can not access.
#46
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Posted 24 December 2009 - 11:19 AM
I love POR15, but not the price. There is now an alternative. Cheaper, Australian owned company and basically the same stuff. I trying it out at the moment
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/
How's it workin' for ya so far?
s
I've used both now and I can't tell the difference. I started applying by spraying the POR15 & KBS but I just use a brush now. Quicker and easier.
#47
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 29 December 2009 - 03:10 PM
How does the brush painting the POR15 go?
I am considering going with POR15 or the otherone for the underside and inside of the Torana. BUt considering the price maybe i would be better just painting the inside with normal paint.
Steve
I am considering going with POR15 or the otherone for the underside and inside of the Torana. BUt considering the price maybe i would be better just painting the inside with normal paint.
Steve
#48
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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:09 PM
Probably been discussed already - My local paint/acid stripper is no longer interested in using Phosphoric acid for rust converting so all the hinges and odds and ends I gave him for stripping/converting came back only stripped and had the expected amount of surface rust on them. So I simply purchased a used about 5 bottles of safeway homebrand white vinegar. Laid all my bits into a bucket - after a fair amount of maniupulating to get everything to fit - and then filled the bucket with vinegar so everything was submerged and covered the bucket with a plastic bag. After 9 hours some of the rust had turned black and wiped off clean using my thumb! - The majority of the surface rust that was still brown also eventually wiped off. There was some more severe surface rust and pitting to the hatch hinge cover plates which i scrubbed lightly with a wire brush. I checked them again today after about 20 hours and the whole lot is like brand new metal. No rust at all - I'm simply going to scrub them clean with thinners before priming and painting them.
#49
TerrA LX
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Posted 04 January 2010 - 06:48 PM
^ you are not going to neutralise them with water?
#50
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Posted 05 January 2010 - 04:42 PM
Probably been discussed already - My local paint/acid stripper is no longer interested in using Phosphoric acid. So I simply purchased a used about 5 bottles of safeway homebrand white vinegar.
A bit of trivia.
HOW MUCH PHOSPHORIC ACID IS IN SOFT DRINKS?
A 375ml can of kola contains approximately 60 mg of phosphorous.
Vinegar of course is acetic acid.
s
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