haha so that's why all our teeth are rotten
never used po-15
but have used both ranex and "furtan"
both work well and are cheap
POR15 and Other Rust Convertors
Started by
Tiny
, Jul 05 2006 06:06 PM
92 replies to this topic
#52
_nzstato_
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 07:38 AM
Planning to use POR15 on my floor pan and the back of the bumpers (gone rusty). What would people recommend? How's this sound:
1. Remove majority of rust
2. Use the Rainex Rustbuster on any remaining areas
3. Wipe clean with prepsol
4. Apply POR15 (two coats?)
I'm planning to spray the POR15 on with a crappy gun, what thinner is recommended? Can I just use a general acrylic thinner?
Cheers
1. Remove majority of rust
2. Use the Rainex Rustbuster on any remaining areas
3. Wipe clean with prepsol
4. Apply POR15 (two coats?)
I'm planning to spray the POR15 on with a crappy gun, what thinner is recommended? Can I just use a general acrylic thinner?
Cheers
#53
TerrA LX
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Posted 13 July 2010 - 08:46 AM
Probably replace no.3 with water.
#54
_mello92_
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Posted 14 July 2010 - 09:09 PM
Sam, you must use the PO15 solvent with POR15 mate. Thin upto 12% for best results, Ive been going 10% and its been great.
And it must be 100% dry before painting. Read and re-read the instructions that come with it mate.
If you can get those bits sandblasted it would be a great advantage (but not necessary!), and yes 2 thin coats would be enough.
Dont be heavy handed and apply it thickly otherwise you will be removing it and starting again.
And it must be 100% dry before painting. Read and re-read the instructions that come with it mate.
If you can get those bits sandblasted it would be a great advantage (but not necessary!), and yes 2 thin coats would be enough.
Dont be heavy handed and apply it thickly otherwise you will be removing it and starting again.
#55
_nzstato_
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Posted 15 July 2010 - 06:54 AM
Sam, you must use the PO15 solvent with POR15 mate. Thin upto 12% for best results, Ive been going 10% and its been great.
And it must be 100% dry before painting. Read and re-read the instructions that come with it mate.
If you can get those bits sandblasted it would be a great advantage (but not necessary!), and yes 2 thin coats would be enough.
Dont be heavy handed and apply it thickly otherwise you will be removing it and starting again.
Yea I thought you'd have to use the proper stuff (something about residue moisture), thanks for the advice, I'll post up pics on how I get on.
Cheers
#56
UCANG
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Posted 30 October 2010 - 05:13 PM
Who that have used POR15 use the first two steps (marine clean + metal ready), and who didn't (POR15 Black paint only)?
What are your thoughts on either?
What are your thoughts on either?
#57
_nicko61_
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Posted 02 December 2010 - 09:35 AM
Just brought the sample kit from KBS,hope it works as good as it sounds
#58
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Posted 02 December 2010 - 10:43 AM
Just brought the sample kit from KBS,hope it works as good as it sounds
Ok, keep us posted so we can compare quality and price.
#59
UCANG
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Posted 02 December 2010 - 09:12 PM
I got all three steps a few weeks ago, and used it on this whole unseen section (satin black)
This picture was taken when I put the first coat on.
I have never used POR 15, but KBS' consistency is very thin, spreads nicely, and all the brush strokes level out too. It is extremely strong, feels like a powder coat when you touch it once dry. I like it, I like the price tag too, and the availability.
This picture was taken when I put the first coat on.
I have never used POR 15, but KBS' consistency is very thin, spreads nicely, and all the brush strokes level out too. It is extremely strong, feels like a powder coat when you touch it once dry. I like it, I like the price tag too, and the availability.
#60
_2DR_
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Posted 06 December 2010 - 07:09 PM
im a fan of kbs too easy to work with and leaves a great finish but i have not used por15 but really why would i its more expensive 
#61
adrianh08
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Posted 20 November 2011 - 09:35 PM
I have a guard that is very straight (Best of all i have to choose from) but it had a fair amount of surface rust as someone had previously stripped it but not primed it.
I stripped all the rust off using a sanding disc and it has come up very smooth but there are brown marks all over the surface of the metal. You cannot feel them at all but there are a number of places i cannot get back to clean bare metal.
Obviously this is the outside of the panel i intend on painting.
What is the best way to get rid of these marks, or do they not matter?
The guard has no "rust" but just these marks left behind from the surface rust.
Any advice would be appreciated.
I stripped all the rust off using a sanding disc and it has come up very smooth but there are brown marks all over the surface of the metal. You cannot feel them at all but there are a number of places i cannot get back to clean bare metal.
Obviously this is the outside of the panel i intend on painting.
What is the best way to get rid of these marks, or do they not matter?
The guard has no "rust" but just these marks left behind from the surface rust.
Any advice would be appreciated.
#62
neglectedtorana
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Posted 18 June 2013 - 06:33 AM
I used Por 15 on the underneath of my LX sedan and also the inner guards
As I am such a talented pinter I left a few runs and one in particular ends in a blob. Once it was set I could not pick it off, seams like a great product to me.
My brother in lam painted the underneath of his charity bash car with it and it has some chips in it but considering the incredible beating it is still a great product
#63
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 June 2013 - 01:07 PM
I have a guard that is very straight (Best of all i have to choose from) but it had a fair amount of surface rust as someone had previously stripped it but not primed it.
I stripped all the rust off using a sanding disc and it has come up very smooth but there are brown marks all over the surface of the metal. You cannot feel them at all but there are a number of places i cannot get back to clean bare metal.
Obviously this is the outside of the panel i intend on painting.
What is the best way to get rid of these marks, or do they not matter?
The guard has no "rust" but just these marks left behind from the surface rust.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Try a Phosphoric acid based rust dissolver.
POR15 Metal Ready
K&H Rust Dissolver
KBS Rust Blast
Ranex Rustbuster
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 18 June 2013 - 01:11 PM.
#65
_Kidshorsesme_
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Posted 28 July 2013 - 02:03 PM
I have repaired all the rusty sections of my doors & want to treat them with rust convertor & then seal with KBS or POR 15. Second step of both the manufacturers process is to wash liberally with water to remove the 'cleaner'. I'm not sure I want to stick the garden hose inside my doors to rinse them. I do want the rust convertor to seep between the door skin & the frame as there would definitely be rusty stuff going on where you cant see ?
My aim would be to treat the rust then apply sealer, thinned so that is does seep everywhere into the seams after I tape up all the weather seal holes etc, pour the sealer into the door & rotate in all directions to accomplish a thorough coating everywhere possible.
Can anyone guide me as to whether this 'hosing' out of the doors with water is a good idea or a disaster waiting to happen ?
#66
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 28 July 2013 - 02:30 PM
Leaving the phosphoric acid in there will cause it to eat away over time anyway.
Hose it.
#67
_Kidshorsesme_
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Posted 28 July 2013 - 03:44 PM
Leaving the phosphoric acid in there will cause it to eat away over time anyway.
Hose it.
Thanks DJ .... will give it a whirl & dry off the whole door / frame with a heat gun before applying coating to inside over treated 'rust' :-)
#68
_TEALC_
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Posted 14 August 2013 - 05:51 PM
try the Wurth product Rust convertor, just brush it on and paint over it.
#69
_Red One_
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Posted 01 October 2013 - 11:18 PM
Guys, with Mr Dirtbag away, (face booking it I've heard) may I ask if anyone knows what rust converter he uses on his panels after he strips them of paint?
It appears clear after application and is sand-able.
Ive asked on one of his threads but no reply.
Cheers,
#70
Lima31
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Posted 02 October 2013 - 12:45 AM
You can get POR15 in clear, it could be that ...Guys, with Mr Dirtbag away, (face booking it I've heard) may I ask if anyone knows what rust converter he uses on his panels after he strips them of paint?
It appears clear after application and is sand-able.
Ive asked on one of his threads but no reply.
Cheers,
#71
_Quagmire_
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Posted 02 October 2013 - 03:32 PM
deoxidine he's said it so much it hurts his brain i think...
but all it is is a phosphorous acid based product like ls2lxhatch mentioned above
but all it is is a phosphorous acid based product like ls2lxhatch mentioned above
#72
ben23
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Posted 04 November 2015 - 07:19 AM
I use the motospray brand milky tan coloured rust converter that turns green then black, the only thing im worried about is rust in the hollow sections of the A pillars which arent the easiest to get to, I do have the cowl ends cut off at the moment in preparation to remove and repair my plenum so I can get to the bottom ends of the A pillars, would spraying fish oil up inside them to slow any rusting be a good idea considering I still have to paint or will I just end up with contamination?
#73
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Posted 04 November 2015 - 11:09 AM
Fish oil cracks after a period of time so if impossible to reapply cavity wax offers a better option. My two cents worth. Smells much better too!
#74
_Macca97_
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Posted 05 January 2016 - 07:30 PM
just brought some of the KBS rust seal, was easy to get since we have a distributor in town, just brushed it on, now waiting for it to dry, went on well, will update on how it ends up once dry
#75
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 05 January 2016 - 08:03 PM
I use the motospray brand milky tan coloured rust converter that turns green then black, the only thing im worried about is rust in the hollow sections of the A pillars which arent the easiest to get to, I do have the cowl ends cut off at the moment in preparation to remove and repair my plenum so I can get to the bottom ends of the A pillars, would spraying fish oil up inside them to slow any rusting be a good idea considering I still have to paint or will I just end up with contamination?
Fish oil is shit.
Cavity wax like Tectyl 506 is the go.
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