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Holden 355 piston hitting


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#1 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 04:17 PM

Hey Guys,

 

I recently bought a second hand motor that the owner thought had done a ring. When i stripped it down it appeared to just  be a blown gasket, rings are fine. But i notice that the piston (#2) with no compression has been kissing the head. At this stage i have only pulled out that conrod and the bearing appears to be fine.  Was hoping to put it back together without to much work but obviously don't want to be tearing it down any time soon. The motor was only built 12 months ago and i put a straight edge on the heads and the block (all good). What do you think would cause the piston hitting and should i get that piston, or all the pistons milled down just to be sure

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Edited by LX355SLR, 17 January 2014 - 04:20 PM.


#2 purrlx

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 04:31 PM

how far do the pistons protrude above the block deck height??



#3 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 04:54 PM

a bees dlck



#4 rexy

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 06:01 PM

Good opportunity to get rid of the Chevy valve relief pistons.

#5 _Mint_

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 06:15 PM

is this a holden v8 but has chev pistons in it?..a "normal" zero decked block with flat tops should be milled to .05 thou below the deck

 

chances are other pistons will be hitting or close to it



#6 TerrA LX

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 06:38 PM

No comp on no.2?
Was it due to the head gasket or the bore?

#7 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 07:12 PM

Or a bent valve due to the little smooch it had with the chebby slug?

#8 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 07:32 PM

Yeah it's a holden. I'm assuming its the gasket causing loss of compression as the rings are fine. Other piston are definitely not hitting.

#9 Redslur

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:27 PM

Do any of the other pistons protrude above the bore? Generally as a rule, 304/308/355's don't normally even need valve relief pistons unless big cams are fitted. You can get away with flat tops. Anything out of the bore is different in my experience. Unusual for it to hit with valve reliefs though?  You would normally put that down to big end wear.



#10 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 08:43 PM

Yeah it has a big cam. SR244/362-2S. Yeah one builder I did speak to suggested that also. Hoping he's wrong. The other pistons also stick the smallest amount above the deck. With that came w,old flat tops be to much

#11 mick_in_oz

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 07:51 AM

Are those valve reliefs a cast finish? cheap set of pistons? Maybe the piston is too heavy for the type of conrod and RPM it gets spun to, and the rod is stretching a little too far. Saying the piston is out of the block a bees d!ck does not help us identify the issue, please provide measurements. Could also be excessive piston to bore clearance causing piston rock, the reason only one side is touching, what thickness head gasket? Cometic and some others do thinner than standard gaskets, I think .027" being the thinnest I have seen.



#12 _mumbo_

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 08:14 AM

Nothing wrong with pistons coming out of bore but that looks like it has piston rock.
You need to check your piston to bore clearance , I've seen engines where they all touch without a problem but they should be even not just 2 sides

#13 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 January 2014 - 08:29 AM

^ that's what I was thinking, worn bore causing the low comp, rocking piston...

#14 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 07:00 PM

sorry mick i don't have anything to measure it with. I did check for movement before removing that piston and seemed tight but i will get that checked. I was also told by a mate that the pistons should sit 5 thou under the deck. Not sure what the gasket size was before but i have standard 40 thou to go back on. Would a big end bearing cause both pistons 1 and 2 to do this? If i decide to get new pistons what do you recommend with that cam Crane  SR244/362-2S



#15 Struggler

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Posted 19 January 2014 - 08:02 PM

It looks to me that something has fallen into your engine, there appears to be an injury just above your thumb. This would be enough to hold that side down and force the opposite face into the head at TDC.

 

It has only happened a couple of times otherwise the piston would look a lot more second hand.

 

As for the leakdown, it is quite possible that the ringland has been squashed and pinched the top ring, can you move/spin the top ring around ?

 

Put that piston back in and measure how far it protrudes, if it is 0.005" or less you will be fine.

 

Is the engine a stroker ? If not then that must be a 327SBC piston.



#16 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 10:18 AM

Yeah thats from the piece of the blown head gasket. Yeah the top ring move freely as with the others. Its a 355 stroker



#17 _Gumby_

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 03:46 PM

Who built the motor originally?

#18 mick_in_oz

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Posted 20 January 2014 - 09:04 PM

Can you do a simple measurement with a steel rule across the top of the piston and a feeler gauge to the deck of the block, and average the measurement if need be to account for piston rock?

 

If it had .040" head gaskets in it previously, and the bearing looks fine, and it has as little as the .005" piston out the bore that you think it should have, then a possibility could be detonation on one cylinder due to poorly adjusted rockers on just that pot, causing less lift and less overlap letting it make too much cylinder pressure and that in turn the detonation and the piston rock mentioned above. I know a bit of  long shot but I have seen this on my brothers Boss 302 many years ago. The detonation could also account for the blown head gasket.

 

Any pics of the Gasket?

 

A few more thoughts, If the pistons stick out too far you can get them turned down that little bit for them to be at zero deck height, or -.005" if you're worried. Go for some new pistons for a Holden and forgo the reliefs and get some more comp in it and also probably end up with it being more tolerant of detonation due to the lack of the valve reliefs.

 

If its a real budget deal I'd probably just put it back together after checking all of the important areas for the correct clearance, big ends, piston to bore and ring gap etc ONLY as long as the pistons are very close to the zero deck discussed above.



#19 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 10:01 AM

I did the feeler gauge method for testing on the pistons that arent kissing (havent had a chance to put piston 2 back in) and i got 0.005" but the center of the piston wasnt straight so it was hard to get an accurate read. Iwill put piston 2 back in today and measure that to see if it is sitting higher. If its the same height i was going to get them milled 0.005" to level them with the deck. Are these pistons worth the $250 to do that or should i put that towards a set of decent holden flat tops. if so what does eveyone recommend.

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#20 TerrA LX

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Posted 21 January 2014 - 09:30 PM

I assume the odd looking chamber belongs to No.2cly?
It is a different colour and has different valves?
The gasket doing funny things next to the bolt hole pictured at 10:30 around the chamber (top left) on the head.

#21 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 09:16 AM

Its lighter in colour due to the piston touching, bvut the valves are the same throughout just the light playing tricks



#22 _LX355SLR_

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 07:41 PM

checked piston 2 and its also 0.005" over the deck. Bearings appear to be fine. Compared them with piston 1 and the part number matches so they should be the right bearings. Is it just a coincidence that the piston that was touching, is the bore that blew out the gasket. Surely these must be related. Spoke to a few builders and they say i shouldnt have a problem with 0.005" over with standard gaskets (0.040") 



#23 _Mint_

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 09:18 PM

it is a little odd..i wonder if it was the tune then or too much timing?



#24 _Mint_

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Posted 22 January 2014 - 09:27 PM

heres a picture of my blown head gasket in my new 308 bout 12 months ago altho my engine bloke didnt agree with me i put the cause down to the small ARP head bolts on the header side bottoming out(casting flash) because it leaked oil there first but yours has blown into the valley

headgasket001.jpg



#25 S pack

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Posted 23 January 2014 - 12:40 AM

Its lighter in colour due to the piston touching, bvut the valves are the same throughout just the light playing tricks

Looks to me like #2 chamber and valves are cleaner or oily compared to the others due to oil ingestion from the blown gasket.

I'm thinking the head gasket has blown first, then the piston has lightly kissed the head, if in fact it has actually made contact.

 

I reckon it would be a good idea to properly check #2 gudgeon pin and big end bearing clearances.






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