K frame fitment
#1 _murrayi2007_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:19 PM
#2 _hutch_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:22 PM
#3 _murrayi2007_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:29 PM
#4
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:37 PM
Jump up and down in door opening.
Make sure everything supported first
#5
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:43 PM
#6 _murrayi2007_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:48 PM
#7 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:53 PM
Either your K frame or your shell is bent.
This is usual.
Either straighten both or figure out a way to jimmy it in.
One of these:
And a hammer usually works for me.
Cheers.
#8
Posted 02 March 2014 - 06:56 PM
Did you have trouble removing the 'K' Frame Murray, before
#9 _judgelj_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:01 PM
Its strange that the jack would lift the entire car before compressing the rear arm. See if you can move it enough to shove a strong screwdriver in the hole, you can then use that to flex it enough to pop the bolt in from the other side.
#10 _murrayi2007_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:06 PM
#11 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:06 PM
The k frame is generlly more rigid than the rest of teh shell.
It doesnt surprise me that it lifts the whole thing.
Cheers.
#12 _murrayi2007_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:08 PM
#13
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:08 PM
have the top of 'K' Frame bolts loose. Dave I
so jack the body off the 'K' Frame, put the two chassis rail bolts in first
Edited by TORYPOWER, 02 March 2014 - 07:16 PM.
#14
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:10 PM
Um correct me if I'm wrong, But the outrigger arms are best installed 1st, then the whole thing just swings into place when vehicle is lowered over it, Your fighting against the bolts......
#15 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:14 PM
Im with Andrew. Only way i can get the K frame into my car.
Cheers.
#16 _murrayi2007_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:20 PM
#17
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:29 PM
Murray go jack it up, Leave rear wheels on, place jack stands just in front of rear trailing arms (roughly the cars balance point) and this makes job about 1000 times easier, I then place 2 wheels in boot to weight car down at rear, but you can lift whole car off ground fairly easy and do the k-frame install by fitting the out rigger arms first & using your ratchet strap, Then remove 1 wheel from boot and pull down on front of car to align the rest = Easy Peezy Japanesee......
Edited by WhaleOilBeefHooked, 02 March 2014 - 07:30 PM.
#18
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:33 PM
When I do the LC/LJ, the chassis bolts go straight in when the body is tilted on. Dave I
Edited by TORYPOWER, 02 March 2014 - 07:33 PM.
#19 _judgelj_
Posted 02 March 2014 - 07:41 PM
But you have the bushes there which will flex the entire k frame. Different if it was solid mounted.
#20
Posted 02 March 2014 - 10:38 PM
Um correct me if I'm wrong, But the outrigger arms are best installed 1st, then the whole thing just swings into place when vehicle is lowered over it, Your fighting against the bolts......
That method does not work with the LH/LX/UC. If you bolt in the outriggers first then the chassis rail bolts hit the chassis when you swing the k-frame up. If you remove the chassis rail bolts then you can't get them back in once the k-frame is in position.
This is one method.
http://ls2lxhatch.co...gineinstall.htm
I suspect the problem murrayi2007 has is that the bush or the crush tube is caught on the reinforcing washer that is welded to the chassis rail. A paint scraper will help the bush slip over the washer into place.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 02 March 2014 - 10:42 PM.
#21
Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:24 PM
#22
Posted 02 March 2014 - 11:35 PM
Whale Oil Beef Hooked, Ya learnt me sumfin today, Only ever owned 1 of the Big Toranas and thankfully the SLR 6 didn't need k-frame rebuild......
#23
Posted 03 March 2014 - 07:38 AM
#24
Posted 03 March 2014 - 07:55 PM
#25
Posted 03 March 2014 - 08:26 PM
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