Well there ya go. Ignore us little torana guys, were backwards apparently.
K frame fitment
Started by
_murrayi2007_
, Mar 02 2014 06:19 PM
38 replies to this topic
#27
Posted 03 March 2014 - 09:03 PM
Gotta do it that way, sump is too big to fit over the cross member through the engine bayHi guys has anyone done it with the engine on k frame and bring the body on to it
#28
WhiteA9XS
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Posted 03 March 2014 - 09:20 PM
loosely fit all bolts and as bomber said in earlier post use a jimmy bar , should fit between outrigger and floor pan to get the last bolt in , if you can only get half a hole lined up then smack a large Philips head screw driver in there and put your bolt in from the other way once aligned.
if that won,t work I would be looking at getting chassis and/or crossmember checked and straightened , I,ve used kent engineering Melbourne to straighten my crossmembers before as they have all the jigs and did majority of this work for panel shops in the earlier days .
#29
N/A-PWR
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Posted 03 March 2014 - 10:38 PM
'K' Frame came out, so should go in,
Another trick is grinding a long point on a same size bolt, and knock that in, then put then real one in. Dave I
#30
_LXSS350_
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Posted 03 March 2014 - 10:48 PM
Measure centres on chassis rails and draw diagram with front and rear shown. The depending on stretch or compress use a porta power to expand and/or a press to compress the top of the frame. Because it springs back you have to go a little over just be careful or use a tradie. If the k-frame legs are too wide the simple way is to use a tie down strap and ratchet and pull them in a little. Its easier if your only one person or the someone else (ie the wife) has NFI what your trying to do.
#31
_abtorana_
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Posted 04 March 2014 - 06:25 PM
gday
when I did mine (without engine mounted) I used three jacks,
trolley jack under x member and bottle jack under each outrigger and another set of hands
you need to take it up dead square and level or yes it is a very tight fit
I had 3-5 goes at it until I got it right, when I was going up uneven their is no way it looks like it gunna fit
hope this helps you get it sorted
#32
_Muzzy_
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Posted 12 March 2014 - 05:33 PM
Nope, I used a ratchet strap tight as and it went in, no engine
#33
notna
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Posted 30 March 2014 - 03:42 PM
I don't mean to thread hijack... but I have issues of the same sort and thought it best to add to an existing thread.
I battled with my K-frame yesterday, and found that by installing top top mounts first, the rear outrigger bushes were out, and no way would they line up with the holes. They seemed to be 5 - 10 mm to the rear of the chassis rail holes. If I install those first, then the top mounts are out, like this....
IMG_20140329_183344.jpg 21.96K
4 downloads
The subframe is not the original that came out, but doesn't appear to be bent in any way. A little bit baffled by this one... anyone else experienced this same issue?
#34
_LS1 Taxi_
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Posted 30 March 2014 - 04:06 PM
I've done heaps of these, the best tool for k-frame installs is a scissor jack.
Screw the top 4 nuts on lightly but line up the rubbers with the holes, then jack the k-frame in whichever direction you need to line up the outriggers. Bolt them all up tight.
#35
N/A-PWR
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Posted 30 March 2014 - 04:06 PM
Not Happy, do you have the original 'K' frame to check with
#36
_Torana007_
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Posted 30 March 2014 - 06:37 PM
If you get a ratchet strap between the 2 legs of the k frame and pull them together a we bit fit like a glove.
#37
N/A-PWR
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Posted 30 March 2014 - 07:04 PM
The LC/J slip into the right place, every time with me, even with 2 different 'K' frames Hey. Dave I
#38
_AquaSLR5000_
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Posted 24 May 2015 - 07:41 PM
How did you go Notna? I have the same problem
#39
Holdenbn74
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Posted 24 May 2015 - 07:48 PM
When I did mine I found I had to put front 4 nuts on and tighten down so the k frame could only drop 5-10mm then just jacked each leg and jimmy bar to align.
Bugger of s job but better than lifting motor out
Bugger of s job but better than lifting motor out
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