59 replies to this topic

[IMORAL]

Just my opinion but try and open your doors while on a 2 post hoist. They wreck cars. Plain and simple. Most come back once on the ground but some don't.
That being said they are definitely easier to work on but if I ever bought one it would be a 4 post and just buy the jacks that slide inside the rails if I needed the wheels off.
My 2 cents anyway. Each to their own.

[yel327]

Just my opinion but try and open your doors while on a 2 post hoist. They wreck cars. Plain and simple. Most come back once on the ground but some don't.
That being said they are definitely easier to work on but if I ever bought one it would be a 4 post and just buy the jacks that slide inside the rails if I needed the wheels off.
My 2 cents anyway. Each to their own.

 

Must be a monocoque Torana thing? I've never had an issue with a Holden (HK Monaro, HJ sedan, HZ ute, HZ Overlander etc) or with my '57 Chevy. Or with my SR5 Hilux.

[hanra]

Does anyone know the exact current draw from a Tufflift single phase 2 post job? I guess it depends on the weight of the car? The manual simply states, have wiring that can support up to 30 Amps!

Edited by hanra, 24 May 2016 - 10:38 PM.

[yel327]

http://www.clipsal.c...064&g=120641175

http://www.clipsal.c...064&g=120641175

Does anyone know the exact current draw from a Tufflift single phase 2 post job? I guess it depends on the weight of the car? The manual simply states, have wiring that can support up to 30 Amps!

 

They are hydraulic lift? If so it'll only be s small motor so probably 5-10 Amps. Get them to send you a photo of the nameplate of the motor and put it up here. The only thing you may need if it is a straight DOL start and close to 10A is a D-curve circuit breaker on the circuit.

 

My advise is to set it up with the power run to a double weatherproof (for robustness rather than water ability) GPO on the post with the motor, and plug the hoist into it. It gives you a socket so you can put a tube fluoro or lead-light on it. If you don't have room to mount the GPO on the hoist (my Molnar was easy), use a pendant GPO, either 2 x single ones or a double (back to back) 56 series like in the 2 x links above, just hang them from a jack chain (like in the 56 series link above or in the attached pdf) coming from the ceiling next to the hoist. The supply cable runs across the roof and cable ties to the jack chain, leave a small loop at the top in the cable. Normally I get a heavy duty rubber bungee and put it between the jack chain and the roof rafters to allow some movement in the GPOs (see attached) and the little bit of loop in the cable at the top allows for this.

 

  

 

 

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•  I0000071.pdf   573.37K   2 downloads
•  bungee.jpg   16.72K   0 downloads

[hanra]

Ok Ill ask them. I just sent an email this morning asking for the specs on the motor, Ill see what they come back with and probe a little further if need be. Yes it appears to be hydraulic.

 

Motor: 2HP

 

From the manual:

 

 

Make the Electrical hookup to the power unit; 220V Single Phase. It is recommended that a 220 Volt, 30 Amp twist lock plug be installed in the power line just ahead of the power unit. Use wire capable of supporting a 30-amp circuit Warning:–the wiring must comply with local code. Have a certified electrician make the electrical hook-up to the power unit. Protect each circuit with time delay fuse or circuit breaker; 208v-230v single phase 60 Hz 30 amp.

Edited by hanra, 25 May 2016 - 08:30 AM.

[yel327]

220V single phase motor pulling 30A! That is something like a 5kW (6.5hp) motor! You'll never start that off normal single phase supply, it'll pull like 100 amps or more at start unless it has some sort of starting system on it.

 

If the motor is 2hp (1.5kW) single phase, at 240V it should pull between 9A and 11A and will start fine DOL on a 240V system. I wouldn't use a normal 10A GPO for it though. Get your eleco to run 4sqmm to it and fit a 15A GPO off a 20A circuit breaker (RCD/MCB ie combination RCD and overload/short circuit). You can still put a 10A GPO on the same circuit next to the 15A one so you can use normal power tools/lights under the hoist. I'm not a fan of plugging 1.5kW motors into 10A GPO's as the switches and sockets are max'd out at 10A - stuff starts to melt. The rest of a normal power circuit is OK as in 2.5sqmm wiring and 16A circuit breaker, but for the peanuts extra in cost I'd use 4sqmm and a 20A breaker costs the same as a 16A one. Plus if you ever need a 15A outlet in the shed you just unplug the hoist and use its 15A outlet.

[hanra]

Yep I agree! Ive already wired in one 15A GPO if ever needed, so no dramas to fit a 2nd one.

[hanra]

Thanks Daz.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This one uses a 3HP motor and is rated at 12A. The baby I was looking at uses a 2hp motor.

 

[TOERUNNER]

this is my tufflift 2 post hoist motor

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•  008__1464139666_40900.jpg   68.92K   3 downloads

[yel327]

You definitely want a 15A outlet for it if you plug it in, otherwise you will get away with a 2.5sqmm cable on a 16A C/B if you hardwire it. I'd still use a pendant style 15A GPO hanging from the roof though.

[RallyRed]

Hi Brad....same hoist as yours ( see pics).

I just tested it for you........

Lifting the LC GTR -

Initial current appx 25 amps for about 1/2 second ( typical motor inrush current, who knows what it really was, but thats all my tong tester said)

Then runs at appx 5 -6 amps for the rest of the lifting period.(say 20 seconds to full height). 

 

Mine is wired from a local Sub DB , 20 amp C/B, via an IP56 Clipsal lockable  isolating switch on the hoist itself ( I just put that there in case theres ever a party of whatever in the shed, and someone says ..."wonder how many people this hoist could lift?" or whatever.

 

The LC is a fairly light car, I have had  the Prado on the hoist a few times with no dramas.

 

Assume if you plan to lift the full 4 tonnes the hoist is rated for, then maybe you need the specified 30 amps , but its probably as much about your circuit being able to deal with inrush current, as any thing else. Lets face it you cant run a hoist continuously anyway....you run out of lift and have to let it back down, thus the eletrics can have a rest for 30 secs or so.

 

Regards

Col

 

 

 

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[hanra]

Thats great info there Col!!!!

 

Sounds like you throw good parties at your place?????

[RallyRed]

haha...Its just that Ivé seen that Youtube ? of the guy with the Commodore/Torana ( cant remember )... doing a huge burnout up on top of a 4 poster in old mates shed.....as the whole hoist  wobbles about a bit. 

Now I could be mistaken...but I suspect beer was involved?

[hanra]

Response from Tufflift:

 

240V/50HZ/1PH; 3HP/2.2KW; 13.3 amps (start-up capacitor) 10.6 amps (running capacitor)

Edited by hanra, 25 May 2016 - 05:08 PM.

[RallyRed]

good info....suggest they are the "running"" currents.

At the instant the button is  pressed, and the motor is at standstill, you would normally expect about 6 times the running current, for a very short time,

Thus yuor lights dip, and if you have the wrong C/B it may trip ( see Yel's comments above)

[yel327]

Just use a 15A outlet either next to it or on a pendant. It gives you local isolation if you need it and also gives you the ability to have a 10A one near it for other stuff.

[IMORAL]

They definitely draw more or less depending on the car. My lights dim a bit with the hatch. Stick the 57 on and its a near black out lol

[yel327]

Here is some photos of the supply cable and method I used to get it to the hoist, you can see the bungee strap holding up the jack chain and the loop in the cable, I just pulled the hook off the top end of the bungee cord and put a tek screw through the hole in the end where the hook was. Hook on bungee cord holds the chain. Bungee cord is about $9, jack chain is about $5 and a few cable ties. This is a 3phase cable but same deal. You can see the cable goes into a 3ph outlet, and the hoist control box is simply plugged into the 3ph outlet - it gives me a 20A 3ph outlet in the shed if I need one too, just unplug the hoist. The yellow 10A outlet below it is just connected to one phase and the neutral of the 3ph supply that goes to the outlet. It is a metal-clad Wilco that I used as it was all but free, normally I'd just use a Clipsal 56 series plastic one - you can buy them used on Ebay for bugger all. If there is no room for the outlets on the hoist you can do the identical thing but use a pendant GPO (or two) off the end of the chain.

Attached Files

•  HOIST OUTLETS.jpg   92.35K   2 downloads
•  HOIST SUPPLY 1.jpg   132.1K   2 downloads
•  HOIST SUPPLY.jpg   121.8K   2 downloads

Edited by yel327, 26 May 2016 - 08:05 AM.

[hanra]

Awesome info there mate!!!! Hows that Sanyo CRT TV going these days?

[yel327]

Haven't turned it on for a few years, was working last time it was turned on. Can't see it all that well anymore due to all the racking in the shed. I also have a 1982 Rank Arena VHF/UHF big screen TV in the shed too.

[Redslur]

I got a Wildbore 3.5 tonne fitted 12 months ago.  Best investment a man can make for his shed. I run it off a 15amp circuit.

[8BALL]

I had a clear floor Molnar hoist fitted about 12-13years ago.
No issues ever with it.

Yeah it was expensive. But then again quality usually is.
And secondly there weren't alot of "good" cheap hoists avail back then.

Id still look into another Molnar hoist if i were to get anymore.