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VZ disconnect fuel lines?

Started by lakeside , Mar 25 2014 09:09 AM

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21 replies to this topic

#1 lakeside

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 09:09 AM

How do you disconnect these fittings? I took the clip off and pulled but didn't move at all. Another question, is their a bleeder in the fuel line? What is valve or something with a cap on it at rear of motor alone the fuel line?

203DD1E0-7D90-4E6E-8ED4-F8763122A0AA_zps

203DD1E0-7D90-4E6E-8ED4-F8763122A0AA_zps

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#2 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 09:44 AM

After you pull the retainer clip, you need a disconnect tool to pull them apart. You can get a little set of them in plastic (here anyways..) pretty cheaply and they work great, I've used them a bunch on all various GM's. (there are metal versions as well)

Edited by LS1 Hatch, 25 March 2014 - 09:46 AM.

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#3 lakeside

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:02 AM

So the tool fits over the steel line and sides back between the fittings?

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#4 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:06 AM

Yep, it slides around the steel hard line and goes into the larger part of the fitting to press the tangs out of the way so the line can release out. You just press the tool up into the fitting as you pull the hard line out.

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#5 Dr Terry

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 10:58 AM

The fuel system doesn't need bleeding, it bleeds itself in operation. The little valve thingy is to fit a fuel pressure gauge for diagnosis.

Dr Terry

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#6 lakeside

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 12:02 PM

I was wanting know if I had fuel pressure. I putting the valve thingy and I have fuel.

Have 06 VZ alloytec that started, ran for a second if that and shut down or stalled. Now it refuses to start alt all. It cranks but not firing at all seems like no spark. This is the second time this has happen. First time it took 2-3 days before it fire up and near 12 mths later it has done it again. I think it's a bad idea to not start the cars every few weeks.

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#7 _SRV_

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 01:26 PM

Don't know much about VZs but we had exact same problem with VT a month ago, the battery in the key had gone flat. New key and all is well. This icould well be your problem.

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#8 _mello92_

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 06:00 PM

Slip ring around the ignition barrel hasn't fallen apart? Key making good contact?

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#9 lakeside

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 06:33 PM

Don't know much about VZs but we had exact same problem with VT a month ago, the battery in the key had gone flat. New key and all is well. This icould well be your problem.

Can't remove the battery from the VZ key.

Slip ring around the ignition barrel hasn't fallen apart? Key making good contact?

I checked it was making good contact with the key.

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#10 dattoman

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 07:19 PM

Unrelated but alloytechs have lots of throttle body issues the cause car to go into limp mode and hard to start sometimes

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#11 _SRV_

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 08:33 PM

Quote: Can't remove the battery from the VZ key.

I just googled and key is same as VS/VT etc. Battery is soldered inside and can't really be replaced without wrecking the case of it anyway, plus when the battery is disconnected it needs to be reprogramed. When you unlock the car with the key buttons do they sometimes not work?

Edited by SRV, 25 March 2014 - 08:36 PM.

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#12 lakeside

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 08:42 PM

Yes the remote hasn't worked for years but now and again it does. Worked yesterday, used a stick to lock it and unlock while racking my brain why it don't start.

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#13 _SRV_

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Posted 25 March 2014 - 08:55 PM

Well there's your problem! Key needs to have power to turn the immobiliser off when key is put in ignition. New keys are $100 or so from key cutting place like Mister Minit. If the key doesn't have enough power on it for them to read the code off it they'll need to contact Holden and give them your VIN nimber in exchage for the code.

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#14 _SRV_

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 03:31 PM

So, did you get it sorted?

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#15 lakeside

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 05:26 PM

Not yet but starting to think it may be the battery.

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#16 _SRV_

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 08:04 PM

Bought a new battery for the VT before we got the new key thinking the same, $150 wasted..

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#17 _mello92_

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 10:25 PM

Have access to a scan tool?

Would be good to see if you have a crank signal, and have a look to see if any other values are abnormal.

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#18 rodomo

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 08:15 PM

Lock the car using the key pad, remove the BCM fuse (fuse box behind the battery) and refit after 20 seconds. Unlock the car again with the buttons on the keypad and try to start.

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#19 lakeside

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Posted 05 April 2014 - 03:42 PM

It started today for some reason. No new key or battery, hasn't been on a charger for 8day since I last tried to start it. Today i turned the key it tried to start, it had come alive again. The second crank it started, ran like a pig for 10's and come good. Moved the car, turned it off and it restart like new.