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Delay in painting after priming?

Started by _DIAMOND GAZZA_ , Apr 11 2014 11:18 PM

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20 replies to this topic

#1 _DIAMOND GAZZA_

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 11:18 PM

So... I want to get the old paint off back to bare metal, and then repair the body work on my car. The wet weather is now approaching and I am wondering how the humidity levels will rust, or damage any primers i put on etc before painting as it will sit in the shed for a year or two as I am still a year or more from painting the car the final color.

Is it normal for surface rust to form on the primer covered panels? Is it just a case of a light sand of the surface rust, and then paint, or do you need to do it all in one or two weekends? By all I mean primers and final paint coat?

Is it better to leave it bare metal until i am ready for the color, bearing in mind it will be a year or more?

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#2 71xu1

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Posted 11 April 2014 - 11:27 PM

Any rust is bad, a simple scuff of once it has come through the primer will not do anything to help. Plan on getting a panel ready in a day Max 2 days. What you really need to do is two pack etch the bare metal surfaces as it will not allow moisture through and you can do your repairs over the top of it a year down the track. This said if you are not set up for two pac (correct osh) you may have to look at alternatives. I have heard of other products you can put on bare metal to stop the environment reacting with, but know very little about them.

Cheers Dave

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#3 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 12:56 AM

Bare metal, 2k epoxy. Leave this as long as you want. Do all of your polyester repairs over it as well (bog and the like) and after you have fininsed them recoat with 2k epoxy, wait as long as you want....Then hit it with 2k urethane primer, block, and hit with your polyurethane top coat.

If your not set up for 2k as mentioned above then you should say so and i'll give advice on that scenario.

Cheers.

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#4 _DIAMOND GAZZA_

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 02:20 AM

I am not set up for anything at the moment. Which leads me to another question. What should i look for in an air compressor. I would like it for using air tools, but more important is for the painting stage. Or should i just buy a cheap $100 one and hire a good one for the final coat. Should a cheap compressor handle the epoxy and primer ok. Would it handle a good final color coat? Thoughts?

I will be working in my shed, not outside.

If I get it to bare metal, then 2k epoxy, can I weld straight on to it, or have to rub it back to weld, then respray welds? Will it be damaged by heat from welding? Or should I weld everything then spray everything?

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#5 sibhs

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 08:50 AM

How about strip the panel then use rust blast but don't wash it off. This will protect it for a year. Get a big quality compressor. It will be used for far more than restoring your car and until the end of time. Marty

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#6 _Viper_

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 01:08 PM

Ditto what Bomber said, Take note that 2-pac Etch is not sealed only Epoxy as Bomber states.

I don't think a $100 compressor will have enough cfm, you will need at least 10-12cfm but that's on the small side and I wouldn't want to paint a whole car with a compressor like that, It would be running continuously, likely not keep up and get alot of water in the lines.

You cannot weld directly through epoxy but it only takes a couple seconds to sand the area your going to weld with a 2" prep tool (die grinder) weld, clean up then re-coat... just be sure to also sand off any epoxy that has been damaged from the heat effected zone too. If your talking about welding a flange together and wont have accces to re-coat it once its welded we use weld through primer, Best stuff we found is a copper color, comes in a green spray can and it smells oh so sweet! Forgot the brand now tho.

Other option is to coat the panels in a product like SW-2 as mentioned in the other thread if you don't have a big enough compressor or don't want to spray 2-pac

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#7 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 02:44 PM

Yeah as above.

I generally class 16CFM as about your minimum for spraying, and about the smallest you would want for general use.

Mine is 16cfm and it struggles a bit, thinking about getting a second one and linking them, one day.

Cheers.

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#8 r2160

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 03:01 PM

I have a twin cylinder 12cfm compressor and the only thing it really struggles with is media blasting.

However, I would also make sure you have two water trap/filters. You really need dry air for spraying.

cheers

Glenn

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#9 N/A-PWR

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 03:35 PM

Air-conditioning Gary,

I have heard that works. Dave I

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#10 _DIAMOND GAZZA_

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 08:31 PM

wow, the best invention ever is paint stripper. Got one front panel stripped, and i see all the rust was coming from under the primer. So I will clean it up now, and do it properly, as i assume the previous person did not? Thanks for you advice and suggestions. I will look into what you have suggested. Please keep the advice coming.. Thanks all!

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#11 N/A-PWR

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 08:34 PM

Yes it is

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#12 WhaleOilBeefHooked

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Posted 12 April 2014 - 09:27 PM

I took mine back to metal all over and then sprayed it in acrylic surface/primer just to protect whilst repairs were done, Now 12 months later it has light patches of surface rust coming through the primer... Recently was recommended I get a product made by Concept Paints called Light Rust & Metal Conditioner which is basically phosphoric acid and thinners... Works a treat as wipe it on to rusty spots, even those covered by primer and leave it a day, Come back to grey areas where the rust was with zero rust left, just clean metal... Although some of the rust is still hiding in pores of the metal, I was told to just sand with some 400 wet/dry to be finally rid of the brown s..t for good as this miracle juice has a protective coating that lasts for months, Also cleans right off with metho when your ready to lay down primer ect.......

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#13 _05-BROCKY-05_

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 04:49 PM

What paint stripper did you use????

Whats the best way DJ (or anyone else) to tackle the original posts question if your not set up for 2k, is a garage fairly sufficient?

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#14 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 05:15 PM

What do you mean by not set up for 2k?

You could brush/roll a 2k epoxy over the panels if you really wanted to. Nothing more is needed than a well ventilated area and a carbon filter mask to be up to aus standards doing it that way.

Or am i missing something?

Cheers.

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#15 _Viper_

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 10:17 PM

Your not supposed to be spraying 2k in residential area? "Technically".... You might have the correct PPE but does the dog or small child next door?

Supposed to be in a industrial area and spray booth... (but there is still people in a industrial area and the fumes just get pumped to outside anyway???) But I actually also thought with 2-pack your supposed to have a air-fed mask with tested breathing quality air? We do at work, dont know if its actually a legal requirement or not we just wanted it.

But anyway Yep ive brushed on 2-pack epoxy at home, mainly because my air compressor at home sucks and pumps heaps of water out which you never want especially when coating bare metal.

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#16 N/A-PWR

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Posted 16 April 2014 - 10:22 PM

Yeah Clint,

We worked next door to a Boat painting place, and all our cars got covered in resin droplets ( causes rust under them ), which the boat place got out of paying for.

We were in an industrial Boating area, and we had to remove them ourselves hey. Dave I

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#17 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 07:27 AM

I said brush/roll clint....

Nice little loophole fot those that dont want to spray it at home....

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#18 torana_nick

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 07:30 AM

I just 1k etch primed mine, when it came time to spray epoxy on it just wiped it with thinners..

I would also be talking to the bloke that's going to be doing the paint as he might want you to spray something he uses...

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#19 _05-BROCKY-05_

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Posted 17 April 2014 - 03:54 PM

Well my goal is to strip the car back, paint the bare metal with a 2k epoxy, work on the vehicle slowly over time, repainting where repairs are done, then when the car is ready for paint get it in a proper booth, block it back, prime it, then do paint a suitable time after. Will just rolling it on suffice for this type of job? The car will be completely covered and no water can get to it (lets say an open walled car port for arguments sake with enough coverage to prevent rain getting directly to the vehicle), BUT if there's moisture in the air it will be able to get to the car so if rolling it on is good enough and will stand up to moisture i'd be cheering.

I used to have a fair idea on this stuff but its been soo long i thought Im best to ask people who have recently done body work.