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my cyan blue GTR

Started by _greg2240_ , Jun 08 2014 07:59 PM
gtr

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#26 S pack

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 12:13 AM

what do you mean about the light switch? am I missing something?

Here. http://www.gmh-toran...door-switchpin/


#27 _mikecatts_

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 06:52 AM

Going at a rapid rate, be finished in no time. I noticed you cut off the door hinges, any reason?

And can you show how you re-aline the doors for me as I will one day be tackling this, but avoiding it.

mine were previously cut open to get the pins out, then welded back up, so not surprising, pins are never going back in the holes.

Easiest way for mine would be to cut the hinges off and replace them.

thanks

http://www.gmh-toran...-repairs/page-3


#28 xu2308

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 10:31 AM

Maybe them light switches are for the Bathurst 1973 Cars :stirpot:


#29 _Skapinad_

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 10:56 AM

dual cast light switch ?


#30 xu2308

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 11:00 AM

Like that one Adam lol


#31 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 06:28 PM

That's interesting. Whats the point of mounting the motor the xmember to the motor? 


#32 _greg2240_

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 09:36 PM

sorry Jacob, I don't understand what your asking, also it was done by the last owner who raced it, it's the same as an engine plate I guess, they are not connected to the cross member, just the front rails. cheers Greg.


#33 _judgelj_

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 10:02 PM

Didnt realise what i wrote came out like that. I was just asking what the point of mounting the heads to the chassis rails is, it must be for racing. 



Did it have 3 knuckles in the steering rack?


#34 _greg2240_

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Posted 17 June 2014 - 10:31 PM

thanks heaps Mike, that's really helpful and I can now return and look at it easily, I noticed u using a pop stick around the gaps, is that a good size gap to work to? I'm a while away from doing it but would be helpful to know. I have had to cut the door hinges off at the welds also as someone in the past has been there and the pins just wont move, rhs top hinge was in 2 pieces and put in from the top also!!!!, anyway your work is a great inspiration to me and if I ever win lotto I will call you to redo the whole car. L.O.L.  And Jacob it has 2 knuckles in the rack, I will soon post pic's of the rack because it isn't an LJ rack in there, it has a 1975 or76 date stamp on it and the cross member has been modified to suit and actually looks quite standard. Cheers Greg


#35 _mikecatts_

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 07:04 AM

thanks heaps Mike, that's really helpful and I can now return and look at it easily, I noticed u using a pop stick around the gaps, is that a good size gap to work to?

Its a starting point... Ive found that if there is heaps of filler on the door edges, you might need to take .5-1mm off.. Other than that, I have had no complaints..

I like to keep ALL gaps consistant.. Its all you see when the car is done, You dont get to see ALL the hard work underneath.


#36 bryanw

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 09:43 AM

Thanks Mike.


#37 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 01:39 PM

I always thought the chevs needed 3 knuckles to clear the starter. Interesting.


#38 xu2308

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 03:33 PM

They do need 3 knuckles for a chevy donk, and 2 for the 308 V8

#39 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 04:53 PM

They do need 3 knuckles for a chevy donk, and 2 for the 308 V8

So his must have had a different steering setup?


#40 TOERUNNER

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Posted 19 June 2014 - 07:57 AM

I only fitted 2 knuckles to my lj chev. works fine .

cheers Rodney


#41 _greg2240_

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 12:43 PM

few more pic's, this is the steering rack, does anyone know what it's from? only has 2 knuckles, the starter wiring etc is on the drivers side as per chev also. rust in rhs door pillar quite bad, but giving it a go anyway, bent up some new pieces and have begun welding them in.

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#42 _greg2240_

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 12:47 PM

starting to get some strength back for the door.

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#43 slar

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 01:02 PM

I sympathise with your rust problem......good job keep at it.

#44 S pack

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 02:17 PM

Looks like an LX Torana steering rack to me. Date coded 3/12/1976


#45 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 02:31 PM

Dave would there be a reason for the LX rack?


#46 S pack

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 02:45 PM

Can only think they used the LH/LX rack for its shorter pinion shaft to allow the use of the double knuckle intermediate shaft to clear the engine..


#47 _judgelj_

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Posted 23 June 2014 - 09:25 PM

As opposed to cutting it to size? Interesting. 

 

Nice work on the rust work, stay creative!


#48 _greg2240_

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 04:38 PM

Put in a few hours today on the door pillar, probably would be a lot easier to do with the guards off but maybe next time, welded from the inside and out to make it stronger and last longer than it did. looks ok from what I can see from under the guards etc, surely its gotta be better than before, still have to do all the grinding and tidy up, Cheers Greg

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#49 _greg2240_

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 04:45 PM

Hi Jacob, the steering rack seems to have a much greater angle from rack to joint than a LJ one. maybe that's how they got the steering right on the v8 LH-LX models?? just guessing, but someone did a lot of work on the front cross member to fit a v8, cheers Greg


#50 _judgelj_

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 08:17 PM

Is the rack hole in the firewall elongated? The V8 setup in my LC goes only as far as twin knuckles and a steering rack that is moved over. 


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