I forgot to mention I have the Turbo 400 gearbox out of the Stato. Works well but has a leaking rear seal and should be rebuilt in my opinion.

LS1/LS2 conversion into a WB Statesman
#51
Posted 30 September 2014 - 11:04 AM
#53
Posted 07 October 2014 - 09:31 AM
Cheers, Nig.
#54
_ss kustomz_
Posted 07 October 2014 - 04:41 PM
Thanks for the tip
Yes they are 241 heads, its got extractors as well which is a nice bonus.
I will put up a list of parts.
The interior is suede tany creamy colour, quite nice; the whole time I thought what a damn shame to pull this apart it was such a nice car. Oh well being a write off not much point crying over it. The chassis at the front passenger corner has come back probably an inch or so as the passenger door gaps are tight. Passenger front suspension arm is broken. So the chassis could be fixed but don't know what the go is with having it pass as a registered vehicle/chassis.
So the interior has to go, door interior, glove box etc.
Brakes
Drivers door and glass
Drivers rear door no glass
Drivers front guard
Passenger door glass, doors no good.
CD stacker
Tail/brake lights
Strut brace, but may be tweaked??
Factory radio/CD
Built in GPS but im sure its out dated but someone may want it as it would be a good fit in a similar vehicle
Wheels with 3 good tires, one tyre average.
Boot lid
Sun roof
Suspension
Drive shafts
Brake booster
ABS module
Shell. I don't want to scrap the shell if someone thinks they can repair and register, would be such a waste to scrap.
Brake callipers?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
#55
Posted 07 October 2014 - 09:45 PM
PM me if you want them.
Thanks for the tip on the exhaust WA1TNC
Edited by Bart, 07 October 2014 - 09:47 PM.
#56
Posted 08 October 2014 - 09:24 PM
#58
_monman71_
Posted 12 October 2014 - 11:57 AM
#59
Posted 12 October 2014 - 09:32 PM

Its a bit of an experiment and this is going to be my daily drive when the LJ is in the garage
Like to see when the motor is sitting in there the gap from the air conditioning box on the firewall and how the sump sits near the crossmember.
#62
_monman71_
Posted 14 December 2014 - 04:41 PM
#63
Posted 14 December 2014 - 08:32 PM


Been playing with this too

And been making this which should be finished soon. Its aluminium 2 piece direct bolt with minimum fiddle as some of the repro out there.



#64
Posted 16 December 2014 - 12:12 PM
Trying figure out why my engine mounts dont fit.
Emailed Jason at Velocity Auto seems I have to cut the alternator bracket to make the mount fit.
I dont know about anyone else but at $410 I expect I shouldnt cut anything but there you go. I dont expect something for nothing which is why I paid the price but i want it to bolt on.
Anyhow Jason did help out on this and advised to cut on the red line. I marked the yellow line where i was going to cut but ill cut on the red line/alternator bracket.
#65
Posted 16 December 2014 - 03:46 PM
Is it just me? or is that a bolt head just under the corner of the mount holding things up?
Hard to tell from the picture but is seems like your idea might be the better option ?
#66
Posted 16 December 2014 - 04:13 PM
I think cutting along the yellow is better but knowing my luck and the way this has panned out so far if I have to send the mount back i dont think Jason would accept it if it was cut so i am going against my gut feeling and cut the alternator bracket unfortunately.
Yes the alternator bracket bolt is directly under the engine mount/plate
Is it just me? or is that a bolt head just under the corner of the mount holding things up?
Hard to tell from the picture but is seems like your idea might be the better option ?
#67
Posted 16 December 2014 - 05:05 PM
Understandable if you need to send it back but..should it fit in the first place?.lots of people have paid good money
for conversion kits only to find "small" things or in some cases major drama...i was considering a V6 conversion and was told by some
you need to cut a small section from the K frame for the starter(frok that) and by others "not with ours".
Makes you mad when when things don't pan out at least most of the way with some of this stuff..sump looks pretty good.
I would "go with the gut" feeling
#68
_LS1 Taxi_
Posted 16 December 2014 - 05:14 PM
Delete the alternator bracket entirely. Don't need it.
I've got the tuff mounts and mine fouled too. Tossed the bracket over my shoulder. All good
#69
Posted 16 December 2014 - 06:15 PM
Edited by Bart, 16 December 2014 - 06:15 PM.
#71
Posted 21 December 2014 - 10:41 AM
Anyone modify one of these? I was thinking of chopping the two middle primaries where it hit the steering shaft and moving them closer towards the block/head. I think this would then clear the steering shaft. But then I don't want to ruin a perfect set of Commodore extractors.

Edited by Bart, 21 December 2014 - 10:41 AM.
#72
_monman71_
Posted 21 December 2014 - 01:19 PM
#74
Posted 21 December 2014 - 07:01 PM
So you're saying the passenger side fits? I did try passenger side but hits the heater box. Maybe if I chnge the rear primary to clear the heater box it should fit? Or remove the heater box?I knew the commodore extractors wouldnt fit on that driver side, how was the clearance with the rest of it?cheers
#75
Posted 11 January 2015 - 08:15 PM
Any chance a set of cast headers would fit a bit snugger?
You might lose a bit on performance but budget wise you might gain with just a bit of pipe bent the right way?
just thinkin
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