Forum Member
Posted 02 July 2014 - 05:43 PM
Hi guys
This is my first post on this forum but ive been reading for afew weeks.
Ive purchased a LJ torana that has rust and I was seriously considering Chemical dipping the car to strip all old paint and rust off the body.
I have a question about this and would hope someone on here has had it done before.
After the chemical dip and neutraliser do they E coat it? (primer dip) otherwise how would you stop the rust coming through from the inside out?
Thanks in advance
Oh My, Don't you post alot
Posted 03 July 2014 - 11:52 AM
One of the members here had it done at Albury.
Mid Life Crisis.
He hasnt been on for a while though.
The treatment apparently will protect them for months after.
He had an issue though possibly due to proximity to salt air.
Seems like a large scale process of final treatment with deoxidine/phosphoric acid.
Kept clean and dry panels will last a long time before developing surface rust.
Look for threads from Dirtbag. He uses the stuff regularly on the small scale.
_sloffador_
Posted 03 July 2014 - 09:21 PM
Hi you didn't look hard enough
I had my car dipped and it is now in the process of being restored
It does a great job and I would do it again
http://www.gmh-toran...lr-restoration/
CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE
Posted 03 July 2014 - 09:28 PM
Welcome Dan,
and remember the liquid gets into hard to find places, just need to be sure it is treated well.
Good Luck
Green Eggs and Spam
Posted 03 July 2014 - 09:54 PM
I would never dip a car.
It gets into all the seams and isn't always neutralised properly which results in the car rusting out in all kinds of interesting places if they ever see water in their lifetime.
Ok for a museum piece I spose.
Forum Member
Posted 03 July 2014 - 09:56 PM
_sloffador_
Posted 03 July 2014 - 10:09 PM
Hi Dan
When I had mine done it was neutralised in the right way
Chemical dipping has come a long way over the years
When you have your car repaired and painted treat it with Lanogaurd
Ive got a couple of panels still hanging up bear metal that were done over 12 months ago and no sign of rust setting in
Cheers Peter
Forum Member
Posted 03 July 2014 - 11:39 PM
Thank Peter
do you suggest reparing the parts you can see and weld new pieces in then get the car dipped? or do it after it has been dipped?
I would think try and repair as much as you can see and then get the car dipped?
Thank Dan
CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE
Posted 03 July 2014 - 11:57 PM
does this dipping create heat, cause heat is not good either
_sloffador_
Posted 04 July 2014 - 05:15 PM
Yeah Dan do as much repairs as you can before you dip it because once you weld or do any
work you have to get in and prime as soon as possible
Or if you can wait and see because once you have bare metal you see all the imperfections or dodgy repairs
Cheers Peter
Sir ask alot
Posted 06 July 2014 - 05:14 PM
i think it does dave.as im pretty sure all lead comes off.do they give you any kind of guarantee Pete that
in the event that they stuff it up etc.i would need heaps more convincing that this is the way to go
_sloffador_
Posted 06 July 2014 - 06:45 PM
No F#@k all lead has been removed and as for the heat that's a No as well
This is not something that was done 20 years ago like dropped in a caustic bath
its a little bit more refined
Mabye you guys should go and have a look at the process and get all the facts before
deterring someone else from having it done
My friend whos painting my car has been in the game for more than 40 years and is all for this
method of cleaning the shell
I got the shell dipped over 7 months ago and he has had a good look into all hidden places and
no sign of any after effects
The car is clean-dry and rust free
Edited by sloffador, 06 July 2014 - 06:47 PM.
Sir ask alot
Posted 06 July 2014 - 06:57 PM
ah yes .thats what i was thinking,this is what the forum is for ,to correct peoples comments who are in the wrong
not deterring anyone buddy.everyone is different and entilted to have their say on the subject even if they are right
or wrong.its what makes this forum good, is to learn aye.
_sloffador_
Posted 06 July 2014 - 07:19 PM
Im just giving forum members the facts,i researched this process for a long time before I had it done
All im saying is don't knock it if you don't know all the facts
If my car falls to bits in years to come tnats my bad luck
But I will keep members informed so they can make up their own minds
But it gives you a good clean base to work with
Green Eggs and Spam
Posted 06 July 2014 - 10:13 PM
Well youve got my attention...what are they dipping them in these days?
A big arse caustic bath is what they used to use, I know.
Fill me in...Im genuinely interested.
_sloffador_
Posted 07 July 2014 - 09:12 AM
They still dip them in a big bath
The actual chemicals they use I don,t know because that's their trade secret
From what I remember many years ago it got dipped in caustic taken out washed and that was that
This method is the car is dipped in a solution which stops all rust as in back to bare metal
Then the car or panels are dipped to remove all paint dirt grime etc
Then pressure washed and redipped and so on till all clean
Then redipped back in the first bath which neutralises the cleaning solution and this is what
leaves a phosphate coating on the bare metal so surface rust won,t set in unless you get the panels wet or
you are near salty air but once you start working on them you have to prime
And as people are saying the solution gets into all the hidden places and so does the neutraliser
Anyway you are left with a perfectly clean surface to work with and no hidden suprises
When I dropped mine off I looked at Mid Life Crisis hatchback before and after it was done and its amazing what it showed up
that had been covered up
Anyway its up to each person to do what they want im just sharing my experience and hope it sheds some light on the subject
Cheers Peter
Sir ask alot
Posted 07 July 2014 - 12:30 PM
is this recoat industries bud.there's is a 2 dip process.1 takes off paint ,sealer and deadener
the other is a phosphoric dip to eat the rust.then it is neutralized the same way as a new car
Edited by madtoranajzedded, 07 July 2014 - 12:33 PM.
Green Eggs and Spam
Posted 07 July 2014 - 05:07 PM
Cheers for that.
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 07 July 2014 - 06:49 PM
THis has me real curious.
Note: NOT TAKING THE PISS, JUST CALLEN EM AS I SEE EM!!!
TBH there are no "tricks to the trade" so not telling you whats in the magical tank of wonderness and rainbows is bullshit, i think i have a reasonable idea of what it might contain but i need to re-consult my MSDS's when im at work tomorrow to confirm. To many real long and tedious chemical names floating around in my head atm.
Now, phosphoric acid i can mention now. THats just your every day average rust converter. And yes it leaves a Phospahte on the surface, but you must not paint over this, but im sure they told you that.
Now your average phosphoric acid wont remove rust per say, ie wont clean it back to shiny bare metal, it will leve black spots, and if you hit them with a sander you will get the red oxide colored rust again under it. It generally needs quiet a few goes of phosphoric acid then sanding then more acid then more sanding etc to actually be rid of something.
So im kinda curious as to whats in that bath as well, Molasses will take a rusty bit of metal back to bare shiny steel, but it takes months....I wonder what the active ingredient in Molasses is......Hmmm.... Google time.
Cheers.
Forum Fixture
View Garage
Posted 08 July 2014 - 08:23 AM
Bomber, there are plenty of other acids that will do the same type of thing as Molasses. I had some rusty HJ inner guards that I put in a wheely bin with 15 litres of white vinegar then filled the rest with water & left them for a week, pulled them out & dropped them into another bit that had a box of carb soda & water, then hosed them off, came up like new steel.
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 08 July 2014 - 09:42 AM
CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE
Posted 14 July 2014 - 03:14 PM
as for the heat that's a No as well
Mabye you guys should go and have a look at the process and get all the facts before
deterring someone else from having it done
Thank's for Ironing me out Peter,
Your Chemical Job on the Torana, looks good.
Edited by GASPOWER, 14 July 2014 - 03:22 PM.
Forum Member
Posted 14 July 2014 - 04:37 PM
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users
