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Triple SU setup help please

Started by _penske61_ , Jul 06 2014 08:24 PM

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55 replies to this topic

#26 _penske61_

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 10:13 AM

Ok, I took the carbs to a carby man (not yours Noël, I can't get hold of him) , he told me the shafts were good and it would cost me around $500 to rekit. Like I said before, I'm a bolt off bolt on sort of guy, if I get some info and get the kits/springs/needles myself, could I take my time and do it myself?

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#27 warrenm

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:32 AM

There is no reason that you couldn't, they are very simple to work on.

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#28 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 09:24 PM

I get where you are coming from, im practically a bolt on bolt off guy myself. But carbs are essentially bolt on/off internally anyway. Not much other than pulling them apart and replacing the gaskets you see, really not that complicated. When you pull one apart you will see what i mean.

But if you have the cash, get it done. Who did you go to? There arent a lot of people left in vic who know what they are doing. Last person was Mr Wilson from airport west. He retired this year and B&M fuel systems took over.

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#29 rodomo

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 09:26 PM

Mr Wilson was never Mr Wilson in your time.

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#30 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 09:28 PM

THe only thing with rebuilding tripples is making sure the slides move freely (I polish mine) and making sure everythign is the same. This goes as far as measuring how far down from the jet bridge the main jet is and geting them all the same, etc. They are very very simple though.

Cheers.

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#31 warrenm

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:22 PM

Who ever does them, set the fuel bowls so that they are to the front of the carb not the rear as they are in the pics that you put up.

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#32 _judgelj_

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Posted 18 July 2014 - 11:38 PM

Not sure what point you're trying to make, rob. Not sure i care?

Edited by judgelj, 18 July 2014 - 11:38 PM.

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#33 rodomo

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 11:33 AM

John's surname isn't Wilson. He's been talking about retiring for years. Good on him.

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#34 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 01:54 PM

Congratulations on your contribution to this discussion.

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#35 _penske61_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 07:17 PM

If I replace the needles should I replace the seats as well ?

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#36 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 07:28 PM

Yes. You replace the needle and seat in the float bowl as a unit.

Just get onto SU Midel and order some rebuild kits to suit your carbs. They come with everything, including new throttle butterfly's (A bit fiddly to set up but again, not to hard)

Or if you mean the fuel control needles that attatch to the piston, these go into the main jet, not a seat. There are a few different sized main jets and you must run a needle to suit that size jet. Again best to just buy rebuild kits and get new suitable needles at the same time if you wish to change them.

Cheers.

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#37 _penske61_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 08:09 PM

Thanks Bomber, yes I did mean the fuel needles. I had a good close look at the carbs last night and they look ok so I was going to change the "fuel needles" and replace the springs, bolt them on and stand well back.

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#38 rodomo

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 08:15 PM

Congratulations on your contribution to this discussion.

I could be so much help to you with your car problems mate, and you're not too far from me, but sadly, because of your attitude, I have no interest. I wish you well with your endeavors. Speak to Wayno, he knows me.

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#39 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 08:23 PM

Thanks Bomber, yes I did mean the fuel needles. I had a good close look at the carbs last night and they look ok so I was going to change the "fuel needles" and replace the springs, bolt them on and stand well back.

Ah yep. If you can accurately measure the jets then you should be right, and check them for wear, if the needle is set a bit lop sided it will wear a notch in the side of the jet.

Possibly best to just buy both as a set for now?

Cheers.

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#40 _penske61_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 08:25 PM

Thanks Bomber, will do.

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#41 _judgelj_

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Posted 19 July 2014 - 08:51 PM

Dont forget you WILL need something to measure the air intake when you are setting them up, i can help you with that, it's not hard. That is of course if you are planning to do them yourself.

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#42 _penske61_

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 10:18 AM

Ok, take 3:

SU Midel have told me the bowls are on the wrong side of the carbies and under acceleration the fuel will try to push back into the bowls.
Any comments or solutions ?

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#43 Dave6179

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 10:30 AM

Can't think why that would be an issue, loads of MGs and such with factory twins... floatbowls front and rear. The fuel pump will be pushing harder than the acceleration force me thinks.

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#44 _judgelj_

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 10:11 PM

Well if it works for some cars why wouldnt it work for yours? They werent made to go on a car that only has a reverse gear.

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#45 warrenm

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Posted 22 July 2014 - 11:50 PM

I think I mentioned moving the fuel bowls to the front side in an earlier post. It also makes them easier to work on as well. Undo the screws on the bottom & slip them around to the front side. I'll get a pic for you in the morning.

Edited by warrenm, 22 July 2014 - 11:52 PM.

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#46 _oldjohnno_

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 07:32 AM

Can't think why that would be an issue, loads of MGs and such with factory twins... floatbowls front and rear. The fuel pump will be pushing harder than the acceleration force me thinks.

I used to have an MGB; nice car but I'm guessing it'd run about an 18 second 1/4, hardly a neck-snapper. But anyhow, it's got nothing to do with pump pressure, it's more to do with the distance between the bowl and the jet, which is about three inches. Hold a carb in your hands so you're looking at the mounting flange. Now tilt it about 45 degrees (float bowl down) to simulate a 1 g acceleration. You can see how, if the float bowl is filled to its normal level, the fuel level in the jet has now dropped a good inch and a half. If you've got a quickish car with slicks it's not inconceivable that you could be dropping the effective float level an inch or so for the first 60'. I don't worry too much about setting the float level to ridiculously close tolerances (I don't think it matters that much) but we're talking an inch or more here. So I think the Midel guys are right - if it's a quickish car it does matter which way they are mounted.

Of course if you put the bowl at the front you'll get the opposite effect, a temporary enrichment. But I think this would be a lot easier to tune around than the opposite effect.

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#47 _macdou_

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Posted 26 July 2014 - 11:29 AM

Mark I have the same set as yours and I bought them in poor condition, they had been sitting for 20 years. These carbs are the preferred racing carb with the longer throat and greater fuel flow. I cleaned them up and just re-kitted and they run beautifully, very responsive and idle perfectly. As Warrenm said bowls are at the front as per the pics. If you need any info let me know, I have the exploded view of this carb. I currently have them running on my test engine and thinking about moving them on but really like the look and performance. Anyhow happy to help...