_Agent 34_
Posted 26 December 2015 - 05:19 PM
Kev,
your right on that, it's just the crank is ready to go and machining + re nitriding - is something that needs a change of direction and also cost , I i just don't want to rush into right now so weighting up all options at present.
Im going to do some homework over the break on this,
Edited by Agent 34, 26 December 2015 - 05:19 PM.
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Posted 26 December 2015 - 08:15 PM
I am Jealous as Grant
That all looks like a ton of hard work but heaps of fun as well.
steve
_Agent 34_
Posted 27 December 2015 - 04:12 PM
The start of the rebuild;
welded in the lower plates and welded up the spot welded in lower plates under neath the arm.
you will see that the lower plate which is on the arms is only spot welded in and i have fully welded the whole plate in.
Wasn't pretty with the old stick welder but cleaned up alright
.
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Edited by Agent 34, 27 December 2015 - 04:13 PM.
_Agent 34_
Posted 29 December 2015 - 03:54 PM
chaos theory what a FNG job !
it been two days and I'm upto here, if you every have the chance to re bush your upper control arms then just do it - the pain that you have to go through to do this job is like hitting your finger with the hammer - over and over again !
Paint day tomorrow for the chassis
I'm exhausted.
also found a cracked manifold which needs to be welded up and repaired - The K frame has a crack in a no so usual place - needs welding - the list goes on - bugger
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Edited by Agent 34, 29 December 2015 - 03:57 PM.
_Bomber Watson_
Posted 29 December 2015 - 04:19 PM
You are an inspiration to us all, sir.
Oh My, Don't you post alot
Posted 29 December 2015 - 06:47 PM
yeah Grant......nothin like just taking the Christmas - New Year break to just kick back and watch the world go bye - not!!
Geez you never stop Grant!
Forum Fan
Posted 29 December 2015 - 08:49 PM
Edited by Davis, 29 December 2015 - 08:51 PM.
_2ELCS_
Posted 29 December 2015 - 10:43 PM
I hope those L/C/Arms were straight when you welded those plates in Grant ?
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Posted 29 December 2015 - 11:04 PM
x2 on the chassis stands, they look awesome. Nice D4 by the way.
_Agent 34_
Posted 30 December 2015 - 07:03 AM
I hope those L/C/Arms were straight when you welded those plates in Grant ?
Wayne - yep straightened them up - good to see your on the ball - haven't had to call you yet buts it's only a matter if time- the SU's need a re build and i have kits for them.
Great work mate, keep it up....Tell us more about that nifty chassis stand?
Andrew/ shane - i need something to do this whole job over the break as it was so big hoist wise, putting it into a shop would have cost a bomb to get all this works done, this hoist was the best thing that i have bought, it cost $1149 inc gst and is from hero hoists in sydney, As you can see it pivots and will extend the car to about 550mm off the ground. It lifts via the sills - it's just boarding on fitting perfectly and u use a drill to raise and lower.
the only thing which i will say is that you need to get the car balanced for it to raise perfectly BUT given that it's on a tilting system it just pivots back and forth or you just lift up and put car stands under neath it.
Paint prep today
yeah the discovery is an awesome car
Forum Fan
Posted 30 December 2015 - 05:22 PM
Hoist looks good but don't like how it lifts off the sills
_Agent 34_
Posted 30 December 2015 - 06:20 PM
The hoist is;
a spider lift by hero hoist - NSW is cheaper than QLD
in the most narrowest point it will just pick up the back of the welds with the sills
it's best to allow the lift parts to just lift via the flat part of the sills
it works really well and you can pivot the car back and forth
once you know where the center of balance is then you can tilt back and forth
lifting via the sills does not hurt the car as the lift points are 700mm long via 100mm it seems to lift fine.
can carry the thing around and will stack against the wall in garage - just a good all round small lift with no fuss - very happy with the lift and alot safer than the floor jack and the engine stands.
for access to the driveline its the less intrusive i found.
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Posted 30 December 2015 - 08:59 PM
thanks for that, those spider lifts look very handy.
_Agent 34_
Posted 02 January 2016 - 06:43 PM
I bit more FFSS I'm sick of
taking the oil and grease off, paint stripping the paint, sanding, metal prep, under coating X ten B squillian
Tackled the engine bay and have been in the bunker for sort of 2 days between kids and shit - nearly there.
Cleaned the booster and other small parts, just waiting for monday to go to the paint shop. I would be ready to paint the whole lot next week but it's going to rain so i found out today.
_Agent 34_
Posted 02 January 2016 - 06:52 PM
the engine bay and the rest of the car has yellow mustard paint all through the under neath and also in the engine bay - CAMS only has the car registered as " red " , but it's strange as only race cars really get a full colour change all over as it's too much of an issue to do the black under neath.
the car's plate says " yellow mustard " but as i said it's strange to paint the whole car engine bay and under neath, if you have a look at the photos the yellow mustard seems to be ontop of the red primer with not GMH black in between - or maybe im going mad
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Edited by Agent 34, 02 January 2016 - 06:56 PM.
Posted 14 January 2016 - 03:11 PM
So what more progress have you made. will it be ready for the first race of the year?
_Agent 34_
Posted 14 January 2016 - 06:25 PM
Pete,
Ill start with the motor as it's all pulled down.
the old girl was running a 12.5 :1 comp - both of us are amazed that there was no pinging - however there was pitting on the old ACL's which was a sign of some detonation - but the pistons are still in good shape
The bore was @ 60 BUT it's also in good shape - I found out today there are two different hones - the old wire bush type and then there is a stone type with guide plates - were using the stone type with guide plates to true back up -
The vertical tolerances were good and from the bottom to the top was also good
We took 7 pounds off the fly wheel and re faced - standard holden type and it's off to get re balanced
We did the 7/16 arp bolts on the crank and drilled the front
the crank is in good condition and the journals for a 10+ meet old motor are in good shape - a linish and were back in the game big bopper !
Its running a waggot cam and i cannot remember the specs at this stage but with 1.5 rockers it's getting 512 at the valve
It has valve reliefs already but we are making them as wide now as the head gasket + the sealing area of the head - this will help with loosing a bit of comp as well it's not much but it will help
the heads in good condition and we are just giving it a service and re seating the valves
the cam and lifters are fine also the spring pressure is also still fine
the funny thing was that the oil pick up had broken off the bottom suction plate and also broke off the the supporting L bracket - it was hitting the crank and the suction plate was floating around in the sump - LOL
It's looking like a nice freshen up and back in the car.
WOT 179 - has finished welding up the manifold and pick up this week end.- thanks craig much appreciated on this
the engine bay is now painted and it looks like - 1 quizalian dollars flashing in brilliant 2 K - thanks grant G ( brocks 72) for the phone calls and training advice
sent the back part of the muffler off today to have the AF meter bung welded in.
boys old 2 elcs has been in hospital this week, give him a call or text
G
I frOckien broke off a bleeder in the caliper - but this is for another day - big head ache
Posted 14 January 2016 - 08:08 PM
have you got a set of ezy outs? Mans secon best friend.
I ll put an updte on my page under the LCLJ page.
I"d move the whole post to this page but not sure how and it will probably need a moderator to do it.
_Agent 34_
Posted 15 January 2016 - 05:29 AM
yes but it went like this;
because i had a disc brake warping issues which occurred due to heat and an incorrect cool down process after the race i had to get the disc machined again and before the two day meet i took the disc off and got them correct machined off the car
put back on and then started to bleed
( new calipers ) back forth back forth back forth - no pedal
repeat - no pedal
repeat - no pedal
in the dark couldn't see the top bleeder on inner side
in the process the inner bleeder snapped off - but it was locked down and the brakes still bleed up - i ran the car like this with no issues
whist the car was apart i have attempted all manner of extraction to which i should have just given it to the brake place and there seems there is only one chance at getting these out, i knew i was not in a good spot by the facial expressions at the brake place when i showed him the offending buried part what was left of the bleeder- WITH THE TIP OF THE EASY OUT BROKEN OFF INSIDE THE HOLE
it's pretty much all over for that part of the caliper at this stage - so bough a set off Mark who was selling parts in the for sale section and have cleaned up and re blasted then
I now need to get them crossed drilled again, which i am tying to source today
another day another lesson - this one was painful as i had just put these on - the nipple just broke and was not put under excessive load
Forum Participant
Posted 15 January 2016 - 07:17 AM
Hi Grant
Been following your project with interest, cross drilling not permitted under group N rules, a mate got pulled up at Phillip Island Classic 2014, he had to change them.
All the best ...Dave
_datpsi_
Posted 15 January 2016 - 09:06 AM
_Agent 34_
Posted 15 January 2016 - 05:38 PM
Hi Grant
Been following your project with interest, cross drilling not permitted under group N rules, a mate got pulled up at Phillip Island Classic 2014, he had to change them.
All the best ...Dave
mmm not sure on this as the old volvo 4 spots have been around for a long time - you can run two lines as per the volvo factory OEM to the caliper.BUT most people run one line and then cross drill once in the piston area.
Dave is this the whole you can ADD METAL but cannot take it away thing ?- interested to see where the rules are on this.
G
Forum Participant
Posted 15 January 2016 - 07:15 PM
Grant
I have sent pm... Dave
Posted 15 January 2016 - 07:55 PM
Cross drilling of the calipers is OK. The reference in the regulations is about crossdrilled and grooved (slotted) brake rotors.
They must be fully faced like in the Grants photos above. The freedom that is permitted is to go from solid to ventilated brake rotor and a freedom to fit a calliper that was available in the period 1964-1972 for a production touring car before 31/12/1972.
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