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Rocket the not so GTR or XU1 !

Started by _Agent 34_ , Jul 08 2014 08:28 PM

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#426 RallyRed

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 06:01 PM

Hi Grant,

Is the engine your old one that was spruced up?...of the new one you were building up?


#427 _Agent 34_

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 07:21 PM

Col,

 

rod out the side of the block- punched a 20 cent piece hold #4

broke the cam in three pieces 

bent two valves 

punctured two holes in the sump

f#$#cked the crank

smashed the soild lifters 

turned the big end of the rod C section into a T section 

 

it's all over for that bottom end, it was like a bag of marbles in the sump rattling around.

 

it was the old motor that i go freshened up.

 

:(

 

head needs another service and Valves replaced - but lucky it was not further damaged.

 

I needed a little bit of luck as we pulled it down my luck was running out.

 

it just ran out of oil when it needed it.

 

RIP the QL red engine.


Edited by Agent 34, 30 March 2016 - 07:22 PM.

#428 Ice

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 07:27 PM

Jesus Christ you must have given that thing a hiding Grant
next engine please

#429 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 08:00 PM

Thats an impressive list. 


#430 RallyRed

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 08:04 PM

and thus Grasshopper....we now all understand why its called CONROD Straight....as in, Conrod Straight out the side of the block!!

 

You dont do things by 1/2s!!

 

As you say, at least it was the old donk.

 

Thanks for the feedback Grant.

 

Reckon Mr Holden never meant them to go around and around and up and down quite that many times a minute?......considering most original street hacks are struggling to pull 5000!.

 

p.s.  - would have luved to be a fly on the wall when you tried to explain those $$  to your missus....ouch


Edited by RallyRed, 30 March 2016 - 08:05 PM.

#431 SA EH

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 09:30 PM

Damn Grant! That sucks mate. Superb damage list though.

My thoughts go out to all the other Holden 6 owners out there, we just lost another one.

#432 warrenm

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Posted 31 March 2016 - 06:27 AM

Commiserations, :cry: .

Sounds like it may have sucked some air, long run down Conrod(filled the rocker cover), on the brakes, then turn hard left(last of the oil runs away from the pickup) you know what sound it makes next. What sort of baffling did you have in the sump?   


#433 _Agent 34_

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Posted 31 March 2016 - 04:56 PM

Warren - that's exactly what happened although prior to that race on the marshalling area i did hear some noise and then hopped out to check, I had my helmet on and it sounded like a exhaust leak it could have been the start at that stage.

 

It had a high energy one on BUT not baffled. 

 

Anyway without further ado the end result - I now have a trophy for the garage and a talking point over a few beers !

 

 

thank god i never put the Dual Stamped engine in at ! LOL

Attached Files


Edited by Agent 34, 31 March 2016 - 05:01 PM.

#434 Ice

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Posted 31 March 2016 - 05:07 PM

Top Job Grant that took some doing hope all goes well with the new engine

#435 piquet

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Posted 31 March 2016 - 05:59 PM

Very Very Impressive!


#436 S pack

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Posted 09 April 2016 - 03:30 PM

post-9488-0-36488900-1459407205.jpg

 

thank god i never put the Dual Stamped engine in at ! LOL

That wouldn't have happened if you were using a dual cast engine LOL.

 

Good one Grant :spoton:

 

Cheers

Dave.


#437 _datpsi_

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 01:58 PM

Ouch mate. ...

#438 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 April 2016 - 07:25 PM

looking for a no more than 30 blue / black block 

 

the one we though we had was at 60.

 

dan - your not wrong - i really should have had a 30 psi pressure switch which would have showed how long the pressure was done or non existent.


Edited by Agent 34, 13 April 2016 - 07:26 PM.

#439 _datpsi_

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 10:57 PM

Do u run a big 'idiot' light? Ie oil pressure? Was having this chat with another nc torana bloke here in wa.. he had a builder try suggest the higher volume/baffled/gated etc sumps were not required. .

Unfortunately nature of the beast...

#440 Dave6179

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 02:27 PM

I used to have the oil light come on under heavy braking. Basic baffle welded in and no more light.


#441 piquet

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 06:04 PM

I found this on ebay and it looks to be a good back up as it gives an audio signal as well as a visual of Low Oil Pressure as well as  tep read out on the heat in the cylinder block. The normal temp gauge gives water temperature but if there is no water then it doesnt change with the block heating up.

I have ordered the TM4 version.

cheers

peter


#442 _Agent 34_

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 07:20 PM

which one pete there's no linky 

 

dan and dave - no idoit light was something that i was getting around to do along with fit all the autometer gauges for better visual.

 

cheap insurance. 


#443 lc2dr

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 09:00 PM

TM4-Twin-Engine-Transmission-Temperature-Warning-Alarm-Gauge

 

Looks interesting - could save some future $$$s...


#444 Dodgey

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 09:16 PM

I use an Engine WatchDog to monitor engine temp on my tow vehicle (provides digital readout & audible alarm).

 

Awesome product.


#445 Heath

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 12:49 AM

I'm loving being along for the ride on this journey Grant. Shame about these costly repairs though...


#446 piquet

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 07:19 AM

silly me I thought Id put the link up

The TM4 means you can monitor Gearbox temp, Engine Temp and low oil pressure from the one item. for $165 its ceap insurance. Even the TM1 is a good idea at $149


Edited by piquet, 18 April 2016 - 07:19 AM.

#447 _Agent 34_

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Posted 07 May 2016 - 03:30 PM

Update # get your wallet out Bro

 

Well I have progressed the conrod thingys a bit further and placed the order, I was stuck with a crank that was finished and No rods 

 

so this meant 

 

go under size on the crank - $$$ grind + re nitride $$

 

OR 

 

put the money towards some ARGO rods which are a bit more expensive.

 

 

I could have gone down to the eagle rod but this meant going down on the journal size as above so it was it was decision time and I have stayed with the holden journal size for the next two motors.

 

So I opened the wallet and let the moths fly out.

 

rods will be 6 weeks away then we are back on the roller engine build.

 

 

I have the CAM from Clive Cams ready to go as well.

The blocks ready 

the sump is ready 

the larger pulleys are ready 

the heads ready 

the new carbies are ready 

 

 

just need - rods + custom gas port pistons once we work out the comp and deck height.

 

 

Oh and an idoit light 

 

 

 

If anyone is looking for some longer rods then let me know as i have got them down in price based on two sets - a thirds set will be cheaper again 

 

Their an I beam rod not a H beam 

 

g


#448 _Agent 34_

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 05:37 PM

big bopper to march hare - were back in the game big bopper !

 

it's been awhile but next week I re start the engine build - well it's been slowly going since the destruction.

 

James D - here on the forum has re conditioned my webbers JdLj known here - if you need some webber help James is  the dude.

 

refurbishment - re jetting and tuning - Pm then man as he understands webbers.

 

I sorted out the following stuff today;

 

  • the weber set up on a red head 
  • built a dummy heat shield - just to try a shielding method  to stop the heat coming off the extractor manifold 
  • dummied  up my accelerator bracket so i can order a new cable 

 

 

 

 

I also sorted out my FAST Air Fuel meter and got it working 

 

 

Fing spewing that the engine bay is empty - but were looking for a few hp increase when the new motor goes in 

Attached Files


Edited by Agent 34, 19 June 2016 - 05:39 PM.

#449 RallyRed

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 06:23 PM

heat sheild looks like a goer Grant....

 

where does the sensor go for the A/Fmeter...i.e does it stay in place permanently ?...or just for tuning?

 

ta

Col


#450 _Agent 34_

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Posted 19 June 2016 - 06:44 PM

Col,

 

It sort of has to go 10 inches from after the collector ( eg 2 - 3 - 1 ) and before a cat - if after the cat the reading may be leaner in  the AF reading - so best to put prior..

 

I bought this off another GMH member - i tried to install prior to bathurst, but it didn't happen  and am pretty sure it was leaning out up stairs at WOT - which was another issue.

 

 

I'm just going to mount in the glove box in future once the carbies are up and running - just so i can monitor the motor on different tracks 

 

 

you can leave the tune a bit fatter, but if you move between tracks then the a'f ratio will change.

 

 

I never really worried about this with the old Su's but i need to install for the webber set up, 

 

 

not sure what manifold you have Col , but if it's a warneford then what i build should be close - let me know if i need to get two done 

 

I have a warnaford 3 piece set up.- cannot recall whats on your car 

g 


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