ta mate....I'd have to look to even tell you what manifold I have...
I assume the reference to ""cat"" is irrelevant to our old jiggers, as they aint got one of them newfangled thingos...?
Rocket the not so GTR or XU1 !
Started by
_Agent 34_
, Jul 08 2014 08:28 PM
772 replies to this topic
#451
RallyRed
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Posted 19 June 2016 - 07:00 PM
#452
_Agent 34_
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Posted 19 June 2016 - 07:04 PM
corecto mondo - as fonze would say Col.
G.
PS - i have to get one made up and two is not much different - let me know either way no hassles - it's a three piece
#453
RallyRed
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Posted 19 June 2016 - 07:19 PM
ok..ta mate...I'll have a gander in the morn. ( peeing down here ATM, and the fire and a beer is a better option than running down to the shed!!)
Will get back to you.
Col
#454
jd lj
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Posted 19 June 2016 - 07:52 PM
I see that you've now got my accelerator cable wheel on the linkage rod, when you do the actual set up on the new motor turn it around so that the clamping mechanism is at the back. It doesn't really matter but it's just neater that way and the 2 bolts should be able to sit in a horizontal orientation (but can be rotated in any position to suit the amount of cable travel required).
Ps, thanks for the kind words. Those carbs are actually now better than new, with a few mods included just to make sure. They're not bad for over 40 year old carbs.
If anyone needs to replace all those weber screws with flogged out screw slots and surface rust I can supply all the screws with original style stainless steel items.
I have stainless steel spindle nuts available also along with any other weber parts you require.
Ps, thanks for the kind words. Those carbs are actually now better than new, with a few mods included just to make sure. They're not bad for over 40 year old carbs.
If anyone needs to replace all those weber screws with flogged out screw slots and surface rust I can supply all the screws with original style stainless steel items.
I have stainless steel spindle nuts available also along with any other weber parts you require.
#455
_Agent 34_
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Posted 09 July 2016 - 06:19 PM
received my argo rods last week which came in at 536 grms with bolts.
pistons next week and were back in the game.
G.
FARRRK it's been ages but im glad that the weight is over
#456
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Posted 09 July 2016 - 07:39 PM
I'm looking forward to seeing this new engine come together and roar to life.
#457
_Agent 34_
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Posted 11 July 2016 - 07:50 PM
James - it's been 12 months in the planning which started with a brand new head which had not been ported at all.
I was looking at the roller rockers that we are using and they are stainless steel - there light and have far less mass than the aluminum rockers. - but they look pretty good and small compared to the aluminum ones.
these are not them spec wise but you will get the idea of the style http://www.crower.co...6-1-5-7-16.html .
one more mill !!!
#458
RallyRed
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Posted 11 July 2016 - 08:06 PM
keep at it Grant....like following your efforts mate
#459
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Posted 11 July 2016 - 08:20 PM
Ill remove the word " light " and "mass" from the above answer as this is technically in correct.
here is a really good article that is worth a read - http://www.hotrod.co...arm-comparison/
col - cannot wait till the flag drops again.
Edited by Agent 34, 11 July 2016 - 08:22 PM.
#460
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Posted 19 July 2016 - 08:07 PM
- New yella terra fly wheel
- New extreme button clutch
- old romac balancer
so I can now get the full rotating assembly balanced, so it's off to the balancer tomorrow arvo.
dummy trial fit in the next week.
slowly slowly.
#461
rodomo
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Posted 19 July 2016 - 09:18 PM
Just get the fuxin thing back on the track DAMMIT! 
#462
_Agent 34_
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Posted 26 July 2016 - 08:14 PM
I'm trying Rob DAMMIT!
- set up the gauge consul - oil - temp - water
- new idiot light
- new pressure switch @ 35 psi - adjusttable beetween 25 - 50 - to operate the idiot light
- push button start
- new isolator switch with 4 post out the back for ignition wire and also accessories
photos this week end. Dammit !
just need idiot to operate the car
Edited by Agent 34, 26 July 2016 - 08:20 PM.
#463
RallyRed
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Posted 26 July 2016 - 08:24 PM
What did you end up using as the oil pressure switch to drive the idiot light Grant?
#464
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Posted 27 July 2016 - 03:54 PM
What did you end up using as the oil pressure switch to drive the idiot light Grant?
the idiot Col.
but got the switch off these guys - went for the 25-50 psi one
http://www.gauge-sho...ders-a-switches
#465
RallyRed
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Posted 27 July 2016 - 04:04 PM
ha ha...thanks mate...theres one of those Gauge Shops here in town..I'll drop in and see them..ta
#466
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Posted 27 July 2016 - 05:17 PM
I'd never run a race car without them now.
The only thing that needs is a power in circuit and then a wire out to the light. I now run and Auto meter mechanical gauge.
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#467
RallyRed
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Posted 27 July 2016 - 07:26 PM
nice work....which then raises my next question...once the ""mission control centre box"" slides into the radio slot,...how did you fix it to the car? Tek screws thru the firewall?
(p..s thanks for doing all the R&D !!!)
#468
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Posted 28 July 2016 - 09:21 AM
Looks the goods grant. . Only thing I'd change is moving the oil gauge to the right hole and closer to your line of sight . Possibly you already intended to once final bolt up
#469
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Posted 28 July 2016 - 02:46 PM
nice work....which then raises my next question...once the ""mission control centre box"" slides into the radio slot,...how did you fix it to the car? Tek screws thru the firewall?
(p..s thanks for doing all the R&D !!!)
Col - there was about at least 12 hours in that bloody box - trying to get it to work , template , folding , fitting then making the alloy one.
I'll post up a photo when it's out how it held in but that was more good luck than anything - there was part of the radio blank panel that was still there - i just pulled it back up then screwed a U shape aluminium
Looks the goods grant. . Only thing I'd change is moving the oil gauge to the right hole and closer to your line of sight . Possibly you already intended to once final bolt up
yeah - i haven't worked out what where the oil will go - but the box is angled and both gauges are pretty good for visual - the light at the top is the low oil pressure light.
A bit more today;
dropped off the ASR sump
got the areoflow fittings for the external pickup.
the engine is been dummy fitted
the box is the back ground is the balancing
bracket to it.
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#470
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Posted 15 August 2016 - 08:22 PM
a bit more ;
built a new fuel pump block off breather.
finished off my gauge pod and put the gauges and switches in
sorted out my FAST air fuel tuner
bought all my wiring and items for the electrician
motor will be finally assembled by next monday.
g
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#471
RallyRed
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Posted 15 August 2016 - 08:26 PM
instument /switch pod came up a treat...nice work
#472
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Posted 15 August 2016 - 08:57 PM
Lookin' good Grant.
Will catch up soon.
#473
warrenm
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Posted 16 August 2016 - 07:09 AM
What will stop oil from running down the block into the top of the breather inlet?
#474
Heath
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Posted 16 August 2016 - 08:16 AM
Loving this fab work.
#475
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Posted 16 August 2016 - 08:55 AM
Waz, we were taking a punt that the windage would run flat across the block and up the sides based on the crank rotation. So we decided to put the cut out at the top and then drill some drain holes once it was welded in the bottom to let out the oil and allow the drain back to the sump from the catch can.
didn't think about a slow down lap sort of drain down from the sides, I was going to weld a full box then drill holes in all sides 1/4 inch but decided on this design.
It could run in the top, i offset the box lower to the outlet so that if any did come into the box it would at least pass the inlet and settle in the bottom of the box as oil is heavier than air as it rounded the corner to enter the breather line.
I also could just be talking shit, it's the internet and i have no proof that it will work at all - but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
G-
any thoughts fire away - I hate being the first to fail
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