
Rocket the not so GTR or XU1 !
#476
Posted 17 August 2016 - 12:08 AM
The line is essentially the drain back from the breather tank, can't say I've noticed any catastrophic failures from not baffling it, but good to cover bases from your perspective.
2 cents.....
#477
Posted 18 August 2016 - 07:14 AM
Waz, we were taking a punt that the windage would run flat across the block and up the sides based on the crank rotation. So we decided to put the cut out at the top and then drill some drain holes once it was welded in the bottom to let out the oil and allow the drain back to the sump from the catch can.
didn't think about a slow down lap sort of drain down from the sides, I was going to weld a full box then drill holes in all sides 1/4 inch but decided on this design.
It could run in the top, i offset the box lower to the outlet so that if any did come into the box it would at least pass the inlet and settle in the bottom of the box as oil is heavier than air as it rounded the corner to enter the breather line.
I also could just be talking shit, it's the internet and i have no proof that it will work at all - but it seemed like a good idea at the time.
G-
any thoughts fire away - I hate being the first to fail
Another alternative would be to close both top & bottom & leave the front & rear open.
Edited by warrenm, 18 August 2016 - 07:15 AM.
#478
_Agent 34_
Posted 18 August 2016 - 07:24 PM
Waz/ Jonesy - it's welded up now so well run with what we have - if it fails then i can modify - but I have a ASR sump with some super looking windage tray and scraper - so here's counting.
update # beige - the world with be beige without a problem to solve in the shed - electrics
F i hate electrics, I just cannot grasp this subject and have given up with the race car.- i also gave up with the GTR as well .
I sort of get it, BUT , i don't But i need to do the following things ;- this a trick i have no patients to learn at my age in life at this level
cut a power source to the main fuse box
introduce a the NEW isolator switch - which actually cuts the power to the coil - the one i have still allows power the coil
re run a - coil power line
interrupt the power feed from the alternator after the engine is killed
set up a " low pressure sender " for the light in the dash - to stop a massive engine blow up
wire up the alternator gauge
wire up the fuel pump switch
wire up the radiator fans switch
change the start mechanism to a " push start " as apposed to the standard start
introduce a new fuse box to run all essential power off and isolate all the old wiring
ensure that the wipers still work
ensure that the head lights, blinkers and other small stuff works
all into the above consul
it's doing my head in and have given in - it's off to the electricians on Monday
I have the parts but have No idea how the F ^^ K i to do it.
having a big motor blow up at the track bought home the necessity of safety and this needs to happen.
Motor done, electrical done next week - motor back in following week
must keep going.
Edited by Agent 34, 18 August 2016 - 07:26 PM.
#479
_Agent 34_
Posted 24 August 2016 - 07:39 PM
heads on and motor sealed. it looks like any other red motor - red.
put the big pulley on the alternator.
put the big pulley on the water pump.
off to the electrician on Friday.
looking for a hit out at the HRSCA at spring historics in 30 days.
motor in next 14 days - engine run in on the dyno and tune should leave about 10 days of checking, and prep. fingers crossed.
practice on friday - bed engine in full
race saturday and sunday
G
thats the plan stan.
#480
Posted 24 August 2016 - 07:40 PM
#481
_Agent 34_
Posted 24 August 2016 - 07:45 PM
If the engine blows up then it's defiantly up for sale on monday and destined for a easier life Gene, with a 138 and single throat stromberg carby
#482
_Thomastorana_
Posted 24 August 2016 - 08:07 PM
#483
Posted 24 August 2016 - 08:09 PM
Its been a long time in the planning & building - good luck with the final prep Grant.
I'm looking forward to hearing about the dyno run.
Steve
#484
Posted 25 August 2016 - 06:37 AM
Is this the new head as well?
#485
_Agent 34_
Posted 25 August 2016 - 09:08 PM
Yes Waz it's the new head, and whist when i started this quest that head cost me months of lay by payments , lets hoping its the goods - it also looks an expensive colour of Chev red or is that GMH orange !
I did tell the local spray paint supplies to mix me up a shade of 1973 bathurst, peter brock/ harry firth red GMH red or chev oranage and when I was at the XU!'s Bathurst on the Mountain @ 2012 I snuck out from the camp ground and scrapped a bit of Paint off the sump of a 9 / 73 150 car duel stamp thingy - or was that a re stamp block - could have been the warrigal black it was dark and it may have been dublin green - i'm not really that sure now !
this was the start of the current head colour mix., It should be quiet quick with this colour paint on it as well.
but i digress.
PS - if it dosent perform I'm calling in Mike Baird to outlaw porting of holden Six heads by an act of parliament, as there have been too many 9 port heads murdered in the process of one good one !!!
Chris - Nice Man I would love one of thoes duggan heads on a six it just makes a lot of sense rather than wringing the begezzus out of the thing @ 7500. I think that from all accounts your HP out of that engine will be impressive - which dyno are u going to run it on, would also be interesting to look at the jetting on this as well ?
Steve yeah it's been a lot longer than what i anticipated, that other motor was a good short track motor, but not a long track motor. It suffered from harmonics and kept braking alternator brackets - which Im not sure if this was the high spining fan on the alternator or the red crank and it's harmonics - - the lifter bores were standard and not bushed, it had a high volume pump - the sump was not vented.
but it was a good little short track engine and suffered some beatings and performed quiet well. I have all the spec on the motor and have the head still and a really smashed up conrod and piston to show.
Stay tuned the electrician is tomorrow .
g.
#486
_duggan208_
Posted 26 August 2016 - 12:40 AM
What about hooking up the low pressure switch to a buzzer in one of those little headphones under your helmet. Your gonna make heaps more grunt now with the new donk, so you will be so fast you wont be able to take notice of the light, but you will certainly hear it.
regards
#487
Posted 26 August 2016 - 07:01 AM
You'll notice the difference with the head, it was 1/2 sec with mine.
#488
_Agent 34_
Posted 26 August 2016 - 01:24 PM
Nice that a massive difference in times.
after this my next project is to look at building one of your ATI balancer set ups.
#489
_Thomastorana_
Posted 26 August 2016 - 05:59 PM
#490
_Agent 34_
Posted 26 August 2016 - 07:26 PM
booked mine at tilleys yesterday 12th of september.
what day - send me a pm with your no or ill call your old man - might try to get over there if you guys are there for a catch up and look see how it goes as it's just around the corner from where i work.
#491
Posted 26 August 2016 - 08:30 PM
Guys if you are looking for a strong Alternator Bracket can I suggest going to a wreckers and getting the bracket off a VL 6 cylinder. Nissan Engine. It is flanged along the top and is thicker and better all round. I will take a photo and put it up on the page.
It picks up off the same bolt in the waterpump.
The other thing I'd suggest is to get the spacer for the thermostat housing from Sonic on Ebay. It sits between the thermo housing and the block and moves the housing about 4-6 mm forward but it makes geting the rockercover off so much easier especially with an alloy rocker cover with their thicker bottom flange.
Edited by piquet, 26 August 2016 - 08:35 PM.
#492
Posted 26 August 2016 - 08:32 PM
#493
_Thomastorana_
Posted 26 August 2016 - 09:19 PM
#494
_Agent 34_
Posted 27 August 2016 - 05:49 PM
Pete - have been in the garage measuring up some 4mm plate to weld to each side of the alternator bracket today - I just cannot seem to find the part your referring to - if anyone has this part then please help me out as ive broken 3.
further to that pete, i think i know why they keep breaking . the bloody fan blade gets all warped = I've removed this from a brand new alternator and installed a billet larger pulley so this should help
has anyone got a photo or part No of the bracket as this would help as im just about to get the hot saw out and carve up a bit of flat plate and the nissan thing will save some effort.
Just bought two old brackets for the new engine - but spitting a fan belt and water pump is not ideal
Col - In the Private Certification industry there always inspections to be done on houses and commercial properties, smashing a full house 6 engine up on the dyno is a lot more appealing, I'll just call it a "waterproofing certificate inspection" and turn up for a look
there is a few benefits- some days not as many as i would like
chris - i had my car on another dyno and then tilleys. I think that the tilleys is a honest dyno - but the guys are top notch in their work
g
#495
Posted 27 August 2016 - 06:08 PM
HA HA
#496
Posted 27 August 2016 - 09:43 PM
While not on waterproofing jobs.....doin a bit of T shirt work as well?
Attached Files
#497
Posted 27 August 2016 - 09:55 PM
Yes! And make sure you tighten the bottom bolt after adjustment.further to that pete, i think i know why they keep breaking . the bloody fan blade gets all warped = I've removed this from a brand new alternator and installed a billet larger pulley so this should help
#498
_2ELCS_
Posted 27 August 2016 - 09:59 PM
Like su needles Rob ?
#499
Posted 27 August 2016 - 10:15 PM
#500
Posted 27 August 2016 - 10:17 PM
Like su needles Rob ?
Who rattled your cage?
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