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Rocket the not so GTR or XU1 !


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#626 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 04:03 PM

shoping list.

 

Pulled apart and here is the list of damage;

steering arm - got one now

replacement strenghting lower control plate - got one now

castor rod - got one now

two new rims - paid and being delivered 

 

 

lower control arm - looking for one - left 

steering rack - casting hole broken and need a whole new rack - scourced second hand one

new lower control arm bush - need one 

new steering rubber - need one 

 

Shock absorber - needs to be checked for straighness as the shaft may be bent, the turn knobs for the bump and rebound have been bashed around and one is off.

 

 

If anyone has a set of disk brake hubs - this would also be good.



#627 _2ELCS_

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 04:30 PM

Maybe a quick trip to Kangaroo Valley ? :P



#628 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 04:58 PM

sort of looking like that wayne - like going to wollies or coles for torana lovers.

 

the guy im getting the rack of is looking for the lower control arm and asked if he has a spare pair of hubs, just easier to have a set of hubs with new disks on them ready to exchange if they warp. just less work to get them on and prepared in a hurry.

 

the lower control arm is like a banana



#629 _Agent 34_

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 06:02 PM

forgot to add - new radiator DOH



#630 rodomo

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Posted 13 May 2017 - 10:12 PM

Stop crashin it is my tip :tease:



#631 _Agent 34_

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 04:21 PM

I finished breaking mechanical bits and pieces, blowing up engines  so thought that i would move onto the panel part of the car.



#632 rodomo

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 09:17 PM

LOL! :spoton:



#633 piquet

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Posted 14 May 2017 - 09:47 PM

Do you have a Torana or an aluminium radiator?

An alternative is do use what I have which is a VB,VC,VH or VK 6 cylinder cross flow radiator. They are relatively cheap, increase the capacity quite a bit and fit between the chassis rails. The hole in the suppport panel is the same size as the core of the radiator.

If you would like I'll send you some pictures of my set up.

#634 _Agent 34_

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Posted 15 May 2017 - 07:27 PM

peter - $165 delivered for a 56mm three core alloy one. that's what i got last time and i was fine. 

 

but i have see guys with these other holden ones  in and was wondering what they were 

 

G



#635 piquet

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 08:48 PM

A couple of people have asked for pictures of my radiator setup I will take some photos this weekend and get them either to the people that asked or up here

 



#636 _2ELCS_

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Posted 19 May 2017 - 10:35 PM

Hard on the gear youse young blokes  :stirpot:



#637 _Agent 34_

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 05:42 AM

Whats peoples thoughts on these upper control arm solid mounty bushes. 

 

https://savymotorspo...ol-arm-bushes/ 

 

run a bearing internally - seem like a good idea 



#638 piquet

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 02:02 PM

Personally I think that there are a couple of better things to spend your spare $$ on.
First up I'd get a set of stub axle stiffeners made up and installed. As the term implies they stiffen up the stub axle and take the side load off the front wheel bearings. It means that the bearings are just rolling and have not a lot of side load on thebearings. Particularly the small outer bearing.

#639 _Agent 34_

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 02:33 PM

I thought that it may be better to hard mount the K frame. But i think that the torana is better if the suspension is softer. wayne - pete chime in .

 

PS pete spoke to someone today about the hologation heads for NC who has one - actually he has three and lives round the corner, I'm cathing up with him in the comming weeks for a look at the head.



#640 piquet

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Posted 20 May 2017 - 11:24 PM

Personally I think stiff is good but hard mounting too much stuff on a really old shell is asking for some trouble.

Disclaimer. I'm no expert in these or any matters really. After all the experts are the first ones taken out and shot after a revolution!!!

Rear Suspension wise I have normal rubber mounts in the trailing arms at the body end and the harder Nolathane type at the diff mount ends.
My logic is that it is better to allow some compliance at one end. Several people have done Nolathane at both ends of the rear trailing arms and had real binding problems.

In my front sunspension I have the normal rubber bushes in the lower control arms and have the slightly harder McKay rubber ones in the upper control arms. I have slightly harder rubber mounts between the K frame and the body where the k frame bolts through vertically. I have Nolathane for the outrigger mounts with Unbrako HT cap bolts as the mounting bolts.

I have the standard type rubber steering coupling fitted, as I have heard too many bad/sad stories about the Nolathane couplings.

Other add on stuff is hard mounted such as shockers and sway bars. I have the Whiteline Front sway bay, no rear bar ad I think it makes the handling too twitchy. The transition from under to oversteer with a rear bar gives really little warning and can be problematic in the wet.

As I said this is my opinion only and I'm no expert. I don't mind a car that moves around a bit.

#641 WhiteA9XS

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 12:23 AM

Personally I think stiff is good but hard mounting too much stuff on a really old shell is asking for some trouble.
Disclaimer. I'm no expert in these or any matters really. After all the experts are the first ones taken out and shot after a revolution!!!
Rear Suspension wise I have normal rubber mounts in the trailing arms at the body end and the harder Nolathane type at the diff mount ends.
My logic is that it is better to allow some compliance at one end. Several people have done Nolathane at both ends of the rear trailing arms and had real binding problems.
In my front sunspension I have the normal rubber bushes in the lower control arms and have the slightly harder McKay rubber ones in the upper control arms. I have slightly harder rubber mounts between the K frame and the body where the k frame bolts through vertically. I have Nolathane for the outrigger mounts with Unbrako HT cap bolts as the mounting bolts.
I have the standard type rubber steering coupling fitted, as I have heard too many bad/sad stories about the Nolathane couplings.
Other add on stuff is hard mounted such as shockers and sway bars. I have the Whiteline Front sway bay, no rear bar ad I think it makes the handling too twitchy. The transition from under to oversteer with a rear bar gives really little warning and can be problematic in the wet.
As I said this is my opinion only and I'm no expert. I don't mind a car that moves around a bit.


^^^ agree especially the rear , I have seen trailing arm mounts ripped of the body from nolathane bushes , always have wondered how a rose joint rear would go .

#642 _Agent 34_

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 06:32 PM

I little update,

 

the panel shop tilleys can take the car next week so im going to get it on wheels again tomorrow and get ready for the panel shop next week.

 

Cam tilley races the blue valiant in the muscle car masters series. got caught up in the adelaide crash and missed the winton crash. 

 

got all parts now for the rebuild.

 

G



#643 Potta

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 08:15 PM

They have had plenty of practice fixing that Valiant.

 

Red Rocket is in good hands I'd say  :spoton:



#644 _Agent 34_

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 03:49 PM

update # 

 

the car is on the rack and straightened,  front guard off, new one fitted  , rear quarter beated out.

 

Need to tidy up some of the sill where i put the jack through, the floor pan needs attention where it was not welded correctly ( spot welded and bogged ), 

 

found out the axle bent as well so up for a new axle .

 

but good service on the panel shop.

G



#645 RallyRed

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 09:46 PM

Thats good info Grant ,re Tilleys. They come across as being pretty proffessional.



#646 Potta

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 01:17 AM

The rocket will be back on the track in no time.

 

Thanks for the update Grant, I have been wondering.



#647 _Agent 34_

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 05:25 PM

list of parts so far;

  • new guard 
  • lower control arm 
  • strenghtinging plate 
  • castor rod 
  • lower bush 
  • new head light surround 
  • new light 
  • steering arm 
  • steering rack 
  • steering knuckle 
  • rear light housing 
  • rear headlight mould.
  • two new rims 
  • new radial arm bushes 
  • new radiator 

 

things to do.

 

  • check rear diff housing for being bent 
  • re wheel align 
  • change tyres over to new rims 
  • check shock for being bent 
  • check K frame in relation to chassis alignment 
  • brake nipple busted 
  • replace rotors front hubs 
  • bleed brakes 
  • replace bent axle 

 

 

go racing.lol 


Edited by Agent 34, 17 June 2017 - 05:26 PM.


#648 RallyRed

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 09:51 PM

so the expression.."it'll buff out"..has once again been proven to be B.S. 

 

Seems you have been pretty thorough Grant....hope it all comes good mate,



#649 _Agent 34_

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 05:30 PM

Col , it's probably a excersise i didn't need to under take.

 

expressions of interest has come out for 2018 easter bathurst meeting , i'm thinking twice at having another crack. last two have been expensive but nothing beats that track and the people. 

 

call out to gary and rob for picking me and wayne up from the airport melbourne last weekend.

 

 

we picked up a car and had a cracking run back through - Lakes Entrance - Orbost- Bonang - Dalgate - Cooma - etc all the way home.


Edited by Agent 34, 18 June 2017 - 05:33 PM.


#650 piquet

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Posted 18 June 2017 - 07:53 PM

Coarse or fine spline axles?




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