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Rocket the not so GTR or XU1 !

Started by _Agent 34_ , Jul 08 2014 08:28 PM

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772 replies to this topic

#151 _Agent 34_

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Posted 29 April 2015 - 07:22 PM

Dave,

the cars got;

new gear box, pressure plate, tail shaft, new shifter+ linkages new brake calipers, new master cylinder, new front brake pads, new moog ball joints - lower

I will be using the practice day to just check for SH@#$T and bed everything in - I'm expecting some gremlins but hopefully not the brakes.

I had a vibration in the car and was not sure if it was the celica tail shaft balance or not or something else - so hopefully we will see.if it all runs smooth. If not we will find out on Friday practice.

But will have to spanner the car on Saturday morning after the friday run. But quietly confident with the mechanical side of the work.

I haven't done the rear brakes so i should just do these as well and then adjust them up.

fingers crossed.

It was a lot to in one go !

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#152 _duggan208_

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Posted 30 April 2015 - 01:02 AM

Yeah, I've got Volvo 4 spots, be interesting to see how yours go especially in a race car.

Regards

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#153 _Agent 34_

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Posted 01 May 2015 - 05:35 PM

a few pics

Attached Files

1.5.2015 129.JPG 79.27K 5 downloads
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1.5.2015 125.JPG 77.45K 4 downloads
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1.5.2015 123.JPG 62.32K 3 downloads
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#154 _duggan208_

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Posted 01 May 2015 - 11:37 PM

Don't you just love all of those bleed nipples, how did you connect up the twin hydrolic lines? Are you allowed to box your trailing arms?

regards

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#155 _Agent 34_

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 06:38 AM

Yep there's a few.

the calipers are cross drilled internally and one of the lines is blocked off then you run the line into one only.

Let me tell you - if you don't race then don't do the 4 spot conversion - it's a lot of work and expensive

I was reading the CAMS spec yesterday and I don't think that you can box them in.

Next thing i want to do is put a " panhard" bar on the back to stop the diff moving sideways - I just need to get sort out how to do it and what material ( bar/rod)

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#156 warrenm

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 06:54 AM

I think the Gemini is pretty close to the right dimensions, if you don't need it adjustable.

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#157 _Agent 34_

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 04:36 PM

Warren,

I had a look on ebay and for $180 I think that i can have an adjustable one. Was looking at where the lower arm would fit / mount to and the only logical thing i thought of was " extending out a cage off the existing shock mount brackets " so i could mount a horizontal bolt and then re enforce this behind. similar to what they do with the current torana diff shock bolt - but the bolt will go the other way pointing to the rear of the car and sit behind the current OME bracket.

I have plenty of room on the other side chassis rail and the fuel tank to work with.

the other end I think will be a lot easier from a fabrication point of view as it's just - welded to the chassis and also has adjustable bolt holes.

I spoke to an engineer and they can do it for $1K

I'm going to try and do it myself.I think that i can do it , it may take a bit of head stratching and hair loss - but i have a new diff housing ready to go and may start to fab up the housing with the cage.

I might do a carboard mock up first to get the correct dimensions - which should give me the length

Do you think that you can whip me up one of thoes " ATI super dampers" adaptors plates for a blue crank - I'm really considering running one on the new motor

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#158 RallyRed

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 05:47 PM

Hi Grant,

I have been collating ideas for the panhard job as well.

Here are some pics which may be of interest?

Regards

Col

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photo 1wsmall.jpg 157.87K 4 downloads
photo 3asml.jpg 79.68K 6 downloads

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#159 jd lj

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 06:47 PM

Interesting that you should mention boxing the trailing arms, as I currently have my diff out and a friend mentioned that I should do this while I'm at it.

What is to be gained by doing so and should both the upper and lower arms be done?
I'm tempted to do it but it also just means more work for me to do before I can drive it again. Would you notice the difference on a street car?

Grant, I'm sure the Volvo calipers will be well worthwhile, I know mine are great.

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#160 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 02 May 2015 - 07:25 PM

Takes a lot of flex out of them, boxing them, but if your running urethane bushings this could be a bad thing, definitely only to be done with rubber bushes.

Bringing up last weeks topic, I had a look at the Simpson FHR devices, the only ones I could find are only SFI 38.1 rated, so ONLY GOOD TILL THE END OF THIS YEAR!!!

Purchase with caution, only mentioning again because I dont want to see anyone get jibbed.

Cheers.

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#161 _duggan208_

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Posted 03 May 2015 - 12:42 AM

My first attempt at the 4 piston Volvo were the smaller ATE or ATI, can't remember, they were crap, I replaced them with Girling or Girlock Volvo calipers and didn't cross drill them just used a Holden diff T-piece and connected them up. A bit of machining, they are good. I didn't mention them to the rego guy though. Grant, sounds like Keith Croft may of had something to do with your Volvo calipers, if so, he did mine a long time ago, he used to live just down the road from the old Amaroo Park raceway.

i was lucky when i brought my 9 inch the housing allready had a Panhard rod bracket welded on to it and I think i used a Gemini rod, just had to make up a bracket to the rail and work out the pivit point as close as I could, no problems so far.

Yeah, I'll put in an order for one of those super damper hubs as well, I've all most saved up enough money for mine.

Mc Donald brothers sells tubular arms but the bottom arms do not have the spring mount, I sort off regret buying mine now, but you can get adjustable top and bottom square section trailing arms with the spring mounts from the good old USA, ebay. just love that Watts link in the above pics.

regards

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#162 _Agent 34_

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 07:53 PM

jon,

these ones are girling.

keith did the work on the brakes . i hate doing stuff three times. although on most things i have to do them twice, but i got the exchange drop spindles as well ( which were bent for more camber ).

also fitted the stub stiffeners as well and shimming rings for the BMW rotors.

Keith has been a very good person to discuss things with as he has been there and done that.

I have decided to go a knife edge crank and Keith will be doing the machining to get the weight off the crank- as i would rather have a person like this doing work than anyone else.

On the panhard rod - issue i think that once the car is back to my place I'll start to make a template up out of mild steel weld up the brackets and then start to mount.

i wanted to make an adjustable - chassis drop bracket so that i can make some small adjustments either 25mm up or down via mounting holes.

Jon what length is the rod your running and can you post any pictures of the mounting brackets.

thanks.

PS saw an irving head the other day on a 6 at the engine builders place, thoes rockers remind me of the ducati desmotronic " forks" as they are very fine, but only push down. i true work of art.

col thanks for the pics of the watts link

Edited by Agent 34, 07 May 2015 - 07:57 PM.

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#163 _Agent 34_

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 07:57 PM

Interesting that you should mention boxing the trailing arms, as I currently have my diff out and a friend mentioned that I should do this while I'm at it.

What is to be gained by doing so and should both the upper and lower arms be done?
I'm tempted to do it but it also just means more work for me to do before I can drive it again. Would you notice the difference on a street car?

Grant, I'm sure the Volvo calipers will be well worthwhile, I know mine are great.

Wayne 2 elcs - will probably pipe in with some tips on the back end, I'm not really sure if boxing is allowed in NC - but it will sure stop the flex of the arms

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#164 _SLY HR_

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 08:39 PM

Excellent thread Grant.

Looks and sounds like you have come a long way in a short period of time.

Will be following with great interest. Good luck with your group NC endevours

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#165 _2ELCS_

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 08:52 PM

Tip 1 DO NOT use urethane bushes in the rear end .

Tip 2 Only box the bottom arms..not sure if its legal for NC ?

Tip 3 Try to keep the panhard rod parallel with the diff housing. I don't think there is any need to make it adjustable Grant ?

Just my humble opinions

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#166 Dodgey

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 10:53 PM

Hi Grant

Seen this pic?

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#167 _duggan208_

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Posted 07 May 2015 - 11:32 PM

Nice pic, i'll fire up the camera. Keith made my press fit steel flywheel a long time ago, still use it and modified my stub axels for the Girling calipers, He is pretty good at what he does. What is a stub stiffener, I've never seen one?

Regards

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#168 warrenm

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 07:27 AM

A "stub stiffener"

http://msfracingcomp...bearingspacers/

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#169 Dodgey

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 08:40 AM

Grant, how much machining was required to get the tolerances correct when you fitted the stub stiffeners?

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#170 _Agent 34_

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 03:36 PM

Steve;

you need to;

1) assemble the bearings cups into the hub

2) assemble the stub axle + NON GREASED bearings onto the spindle

3) tighten up the wheel nut to 80 pound - pretty sure that's the number - but will check.

4) IF the wheel will not spin THEN you need to start WET and DRY the stub stiffener and take off metal and then re assemble + test

5) continue step 4 until you can tighten up the wheel nut to 80 pound and then put a spanner on the wheel nut and the leverage of the spanner will turn the hub without pressure and rotate

6) disassemble and grease up bearings then tighten up wheel nut to 80 pound

7) have a beer

PS - just buy off keith croft - STUB AXLE STIFFNERS $152.00pr-

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#171 Dodgey

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 08:19 PM

Thanks Grant

So in step 6 the hub/disc is rotating just from the weight of the spanner?

Original sizing of the stiffener must be very accurate if it can be adjusted with wet & dry rather than a lathe?

Step 7 I would need to substitute bourbon?

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#172 _duggan208_

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Posted 08 May 2015 - 11:36 PM

i'll have to invest in some of those.

regards

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#173 _Agent 34_

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Posted 09 May 2015 - 06:56 AM

Thanks Grant

So in step 6 the hub/disc is rotating just from the weight of the spanner?

Original sizing of the stiffener must be very accurate if it can be adjusted with wet & dry rather than a lathe?

Step 7 I would need to substitute bourbon?

Steve

yes as the bearing has no grease and the cone is only in contact with the bearing case which are on the stubs- TO vary the pressure on the HUB to STUB fit the cone needs to be adjusted so that the pressure on the bearing to the cone is correct. IF the cone is too long then you will not achieve the correct pressure on the bearing IF it's too short then the pressure will be too much and cause excess friction. hence you need to do this without grease so you can correct adjust the tension on the bearing via the cone length.

I suppose if you imagine the bearing cone is now supported on bot sides being the inner and the outer - the outer is supported by the HUB lips and now the inner is wedged between the cones.

On Keith's ones they seem to be FINER IN THE BARREL and at the small end of the cone HAVE A SMALL CHAMFER which help when removing excess. i had a look a the ones that Warren posted in the link and they look THICKER IN BARREL . I didn't take any photos of the items.

Depending on a few things you may not need to take much off

G

let me know if you need a contact and phone no.

step 7 can be bourbon

ps thank's for the shot of the car it's a cracker shot - im going to email him and get a copy

Edited by Agent 34, 09 May 2015 - 07:06 AM.