Good news, well done Grant
Rocket the not so GTR or XU1 !
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_Agent 34_
, Jul 08 2014 08:28 PM
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#176
purrlx
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 06:36 PM
#178
_Agent 34_
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:08 PM
I certainly was not expecting that at all. In fact I was quiet hesitant to give CAMS the chassis no, as this was the defining thing IF they say that no record existed of that chassis then it's a lot more difficult.
. So now i have to put in a
" missed placed or lost log book application form" not a " new log book application form".
I still have to get another inspection done on the car next week and add some side intrusion bars.
that's the best news.- i cannot believe it, that's the best outcome i could have wished for.
wonder what races the car ran in.
#179
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:40 PM
Great news mate, cheerin.
Just remember, steer the frOck clear of the Simpson FHR......
#180
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 08:43 PM
Hi again Grant,
Re the intrusion bars...I added them to my alloy cage ( as you know its the same as yours).
Went to Bond Roll Bars ( not far from Keith Crofts place)....cost bugger all.
The bloke there is a great guy and still has the old hand scrawled A4 school note book, with all the sketches and dimensions for the LC/LJ , from back in the 70s!!
He even made a spare one for me in case there was an issue clearing the standard passenger seat.
Couldn't recommend him highly enough.
p.s - I think he was an ex engine guy from Dick Johnsons team back in the XE era...but cant hold that against him..lol
#181
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Posted 11 May 2015 - 08:45 PM
That is great news Grant, really pleased for you.
Tim Brown's book "Strike Me Pink" has a chapter on 'Cars and Owners' where he lists all XU-1's that raced in Group Nc up to 2006. He also thanks one John Kingcott who apparently has put together a database of all Group N cars that have raced in Australia (this was as at 2006). It may be worth your while getting in touch with Tim. You never know, he may be able to assist finding some details. His email address is in the back of the book and he is also on Facebook.
Steve
#183
_Agent 34_
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Posted 13 May 2015 - 05:46 AM
I'm a bit further advanced then the other day.
The rules are;
If you had a old 3J logbook THEN you can apply for a " N & S historic log book". The limiting factor here is that the car cannot compete in State or National events. BUT can race in most grass roots events.
To race in state or national you need a " fully complaint spec steel cage" which was PAST the 2000 change over BUT this cage must have STRAIGHT back stays and NOT ones that follow the roof line ( kinked)
NOW this is where it gets weird.
" if I had modified the cage from original then I would not have been able to rely on the 3j logbook as the cage would not have been the same as the time the car was logbooked and there for the application would be a NEW logbook application and this would require a NEW steel cage" and the cage would fail the test and I would not be able to use.
COL - if you did a chassis search on your car and you had and old 3j log book and got it inspected the " added side intrusion bars would make any application for a N & S historic logbook unable to proceed. You would be a NEW log book application, BUT if you removed the side intrusion bars then and reverted the cage back to original then you would PASS the test.
Steve - your car is able to have an application for a N & S as it's got an old 3j- you should just change this over to the new logbook.
CAMS do not want you to modify the cage from what was approved at the time and hence this whole issue of compliance.- No doubt that side intrusion bars are beneficial.
Boomer - mate will have to tackle the whole restraint issue now.
- medical - done
- car - done
- helmet - not done
- FHR- not done
- upgrade license - partly done
- undertaken OLT- not booked
PS anyone looking to check if there cars were previously raced can send me the chassis no and i can forward them on - COL send yours across. you just never know
also for anyone looking at doing the above BOND ROLL bars has a bolt in steel cage which you can use and this will comply $1400 - you fit and paint which is still pretty cheap.
also another bloke i was put onto $1500 cash ( including pipe) comes to your house and does it there for a full steel cage welded in.
G
Edited by Agent 34, 13 May 2015 - 05:50 AM.
#184
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Posted 13 May 2015 - 09:15 AM
Ta Grant, I'll pm you mate.
#185
Dodgey
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Posted 13 May 2015 - 09:57 AM
Application for a Group N Historic log book is a good idea Grant.
I would need to make some changes, like fitting a rear seat. Also, my car is a '71 LC but has a 202 fitted not a 186.
I've had a quick read of the CAMS forms and will make some further enquiries.
#186
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Posted 15 May 2015 - 06:32 PM
got scrutineer sign off today.
got eligibility officer sign off.
submit to cams on monday
Had to buy a new seat belt for drivers side only.
I'm there !
I have missed my entry to retro speed and went under the regularity banner.for a shake down of the new running gear.
I'm going to try Muscle car masters i should be sorted for this.- not sure of the regs and other items.
Steve i really don't think that the engine size matters so long as you don't go over 202 BUT there is allowance for bore sizes.
you can fit a 4 door bottom and a 4 door back seat - these are pretty cheap to pick up.
If you get stuck i can loan you a set.
1 more mill !
#187
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Posted 15 May 2015 - 08:38 PM
Congrats Grant, well done.
You certainly make things happen quickly!
#188
_duggan208_
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Posted 15 May 2015 - 10:37 PM
Here is my panhard rod set up, forgot to measure it, not the best, but works OK. the real test is track work I suppose. Might not happen because its a street car.
regards
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#189
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Posted 18 May 2015 - 07:44 PM
geeze john - got the full bag of fruit under there;
- 9 inch
- rear sway bar
- temp sender in the housing
- pan hard rod
- spax shocks
It's given me some ideas for my spare diff which i am building for the race car. thanks
G
#190
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Posted 19 May 2015 - 12:46 AM
Yep, you can't see the McDonald Brothers upper and lower tubular trailing arms. My lower arms are a bit dogie I have to do a much better job of adding the coil spring mount on them, however, you can get adjustable arms from the USA. I figure that if the whole rear end can be adjusted it can aligned with the front end. The oil temp was that I had 3 VDO gauges doing bloody nothing so I may as well use them, the diff hardly gets hot on the street though.
regards
#191
jd lj
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Posted 19 May 2015 - 12:21 PM
Wouldn't the temperature sender unit be to high to actually be sitting in the oil or does it drop down lower once inside the filler plug.
#192
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Posted 20 May 2015 - 12:24 AM
I look at it like when the diff is spining its some what similar to a oil pump and the oil is being thrown around like mad and the hot oil splashes all over the sensor, giving a signal. I have one in the gear box as well, same design and it gets alot hotter. Its interesting to see how the temp works.
Regards
#193
_Agent 34_
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Posted 28 May 2015 - 08:29 PM
Huston " we have a log book back with the car" !
miracle to say the least.
Prep for next week retro speed fest.
fit new RPM race belts
install tacho light for setting rev limit
get wheel alignment
#194
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Posted 28 May 2015 - 09:11 PM
#195
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Posted 28 May 2015 - 10:00 PM
wow...you must only sleep between 4 am and 5 am to get all this stuff done Grant...let alone have a job as well.!
Will try and take a run down to SMP for a look if I can...will drop in and say Hi if that works out.
Good luck mate....
#196
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Posted 31 May 2015 - 05:29 PM
Update - known !
Well didn't do the seat belts but did.
- oil and filter change- wayne also gave a few tips on why the you have to put a hose clamp around to stop the oil flter spinning off - i just sire tied it on through the hose clamp -- see newby
- I couldn't get the Tacho working or adjusted so a bough a new one from super cheap - only needed the upto 8K - thought that a 11K rev tacho was a little bit ambitious LOL
- made up some new pedal plates - took the rubber ones off
- Painted the side exhaust - it was rusting and looked shit now its pot belly black colour
I have found that i have a leak from the front brake line and this needs to be sorted next week along with the wheel alignment
G
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#197
warrenm
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Posted 01 June 2015 - 07:13 AM
The tacho that isn't working, is that the original? If so, if you have an MSD, Crane etc. ignition unit you"ll also need another "dummy" coil(msd & crane make them) for the older tacho's to read correctly.
#198
_Agent 34_
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Posted 01 June 2015 - 07:46 PM
Warren - it's running a ICE ignition bosch with a coil + booster. the standard tacho is still operational on the car and they both read the same now. - but no fancy rev limiter or other stuff off the coil box or booster.
It was an old speco and i chucked it in the bin. I remember getting a dyno sheet when i bought the car and on the back it had "tacho reading 500rpm out"
The new tacho has rev light and memory set. IT's just a lot easier to read up there.and idiot light few Zip ties and we were away !
I just need to build a gauge pod for water and oil so i can see them better - but thats a long term goal.
Cars in getting the new settings for wheel alignment - 4 camber and as much castor.
with the stub axles bent it had 6 degrees camber - it was looking very cross eyed indeed !
Edited by Agent 34, 01 June 2015 - 07:47 PM.
#199
Dodgey
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Posted 04 June 2015 - 10:21 PM
Hope you & the Rocket perform well at Retro Speedfest on the weekend Grant.
Edited by Dodgey, 04 June 2015 - 10:21 PM.
#200
_Agent 34_
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Posted 11 June 2015 - 07:50 PM
Another Attempt at the title another lesson learnt.
Well the last week was a shit fight trying to get ready as the wheel alignment blokes machine blew up so i had to go to pedders - they were really good and the price was reasonable - most of the shims now had to come out.
The brake line was leaking and this had to be fixed - done.
Friday practice after lunch two runs and things didn't seem right with the motor, the brakes were awesome - the gearbox was working well and was pretty happy apart from what seemed to be down on power.
BRAKES
Two runs on Saturday and then the brake pedal started to get a small vibration which i inquired with a few other blokes to which they said " warped rotors " - how could this be their brand new !!!
Anyway apparently it's not a VERY uncommon issue. It seems like there are a few ideas out there on what causes this but i have come to the facts that
" there is not enough cool air getting to the disk and the sprint master dosen't allow much flow through air " ALSO EC has a small run around to the rear of the pits till you enter and not giving much time to cool the brakes.
there has been a few other suggestions - PADS - the car standing still after the race and the rotor cooling different where the caliper is in connection with the rotor
the last race and the revision mirror was shaking to one side, the tacho was leaning over the steering column, the glovebox flew open and the lock came out and flew over to under my feet - to say that the car was now vibrating like a bastard was an understatement !!! - it was pretty funny and was happy that the weekend was over after the last race - HA
SO i now have a bloke who can come to your house and machine the disks on the car and this is happening this week.
also making up some air dams for the front of the car and piping which should get a bit more cool air to the disks.
CARBY linkages
well i found why it wasnt going - one of the carbies link was spinning on the rod - so a tighten up and it's all good again - must get new hex system sorted but don't want to do this till i change the carbies to webbers.
The loose sump
it struck again and i needed to tighten up on on sunday morning - when i build the next motor I'm going to lockwire them
Gearbox
Well i believe that Ive done a bearing in the box as it now has a whine under load which i think is a bearing - so it's out with this and off to get a kit through it.
The change in the box was pretty noticeable as third gear was a lot longer than the celica box and the car being under powered to most other cars struggled getting out of third gear corners and up onto the cam.
Apart from these small matters we had a ball and spun off consistently good times @ 1.55 or there about's
I have ordered a few parts for the next motor build
- Larger alternator pulley
- smaller water pump pulley
both billeted
G
Edited by Agent 34, 11 June 2015 - 07:54 PM.
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