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202ing a Beemer

Started by SA EH , Aug 19 2014 10:10 PM

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241 replies to this topic

#51 Heath

I like cars.

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Name:Heath
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Posted 04 February 2015 - 04:51 PM

All of the above.

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#52 SA EH

Another Holden 6 tragic

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Name:Jonesy
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Car:EH Holden, E30 BMW, LJ 4 Door
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Posted 03 April 2015 - 08:48 PM

Alrighty then...

So I got nowhere near 3 months out of the EH before this happened at the drags the other month -

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#53 wot179

Green Eggs and Spam

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Posted 03 April 2015 - 08:57 PM

That sucks a bit.

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#54 SA EH

Another Holden 6 tragic

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Name:Jonesy
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Car:EH Holden, E30 BMW, LJ 4 Door
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Posted 03 April 2015 - 09:04 PM

With the engine pulled it has copped a 600 grit & kero rub down on the deck as well as the head to remove some machining scores before I try the mls gasket again.

The diff has received the "NO SLIP" option and has been chucked back in for a tailshaft measurement.

Rear swaybar has been fitted.

Wiring seems to be an endless job but its looking good at this stage, made up some kind of console to mount the gauges & switches on, fitted the nitrous bottle, shifter, a few other bits & pieces....

Looks like this now...

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#55 SA EH

Another Holden 6 tragic

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Posted 03 April 2015 - 09:10 PM

And while we're at it, here's a comparison between the two sets of pipes I have here. The nice set being the ones from the EH, the other are the ones I will use in the beemer.

That sucks a bit.

Meh, used to it...

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#56 ben23

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Posted 03 April 2015 - 10:59 PM

Just a side note from the mention of isolating the battery while engine running, you will need to run an isolator with 2 sets of contacts, one large and one small. Then you will need to, using a bosch alternator that would have been fitted standard to a red 6, remove the regulator, and you will find the brushes attached, what you have to try and do is open circuit one brush and run a wire from the brush and a wire from where it connected to the regulator to each side of the small contacts of your isolator. Use the large ones to open circuit the main earth as standard. When you open the isolator it will cut current to the alternator field so it will stop charging and isolate the battery as well so you lose power completely and the car shuts down.

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#57 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 07:10 AM

Or you can just isolate the negative.

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#58 SA EH

Another Holden 6 tragic

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Name:Jonesy
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Posted 04 April 2015 - 08:42 AM

Well yeah that's what I've done Bomber... I thought that would have done it but I could be wrong. I can't remember!

I'm sure switching the negative will cut power from my ignition module though.

Edited by SA EH, 04 April 2015 - 08:44 AM.

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#59 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 08:56 AM

Its only really a case of isolation the negative pole of the battery.

Like in my case where i have multiple earths going from the battery, isolating just one wont do squat, Have one cable going to the isolator then my others comign off it.

Seems to work?

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#60 ben23

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 08:07 PM

Wont work as the alternator is still on the vehicle side of the isolator. So the alternator will continue to run the electrical system until the engine is stopped and it wont unless you switch off the ignition/stall it etc. You could also use a continuous duty 85A solenoid between the B+ of the alt and the battery and use the second set of contacts to switch that, saves doing a field isolate mod. Same as disconnecting the battery while the engine is running the engine will keep running as long as the alternator is good. Not recommended practice but it explains my point. Just disconnecting the battery will not shutdown the engine or electrical system if the engine is running. So you need to be able to isolate the output of the alternator either by cutting the field so it stops charging or interrupting the main charge circuit. If you use a dual pole isolator (two sets of large contacts/terminals) you could isolate the main negative with one set and run the charge wire from the alt through the other set to battery positive. So when you open the isolator you open both circuits at the same time and stop both battery supply and alternator supply.

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#61 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 08:14 PM

I may need to do an experiment tomorow to confirm this, but I was under the impression if you cut the earth the lot stopped, as theres no earth, the alternator only feeds in +, hence cutting the + terminal does not work....

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#62 N/A-PWR

CABIN ENGINE CONTROLS GALORE

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Posted 04 April 2015 - 08:21 PM

Chassis Ground Cable

You can also isolate the distributor from earth for immobilization.

Edited by NA-PWR, 04 April 2015 - 08:31 PM.

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#63 SA EH

Another Holden 6 tragic

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Name:Jonesy
Location:SA
Car:EH Holden, E30 BMW, LJ 4 Door
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Posted 05 April 2015 - 04:02 PM

How'd you go with the test Bomber??
I'm sure your cars are a little more mobile than mine at the moment...
Keen to find out.

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#64 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 04:17 PM

Clean forgot, will get something running and do it now.

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#65 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 04:25 PM

Nope, Bens right, were wrong.

Pull positive terminal off, car runs.

Replace it and pull negative terminal off, car runs.

Pull both off, car runs.

How, got me #@$^%&, this is why i pay a mate to do my wiring for me.....

Really need to learn to not argue with peolpe when it comes to wiring haha.

Cheers.

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#66 SA EH

Another Holden 6 tragic

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Name:Jonesy
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Car:EH Holden, E30 BMW, LJ 4 Door
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Posted 05 April 2015 - 05:40 PM

$hit! Still don't believe it, gonna have to get this beemer running...
Thanks for the disappointment.

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#67 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 05 April 2015 - 06:06 PM

What blew me away was half the electronics like lights and stuff worked with the engine running and no battery connected....

Sure, throw the blinker on and the tacho goes rank, but still, they worked....Apparently something somewhere makes an earth...Please, no one try to explain it haha.